blind_elk

My theory on the matter (may not be correct): The alternator is producing all those little electrons. Those little electron things are wandering off, and generally finding their way back to the battery. Suddenly, the path to the battery is disabled. Where do those little electrons go now? Let's see - there's a nice ECU sitting over there, with a path to earth. That's why it's also recommended to turn on parking lights when jump-starting, to create a load to capture the excess electrons when you disconnect the cables. You may well have been lucky that you haven't fried the ECU in any of your ventures into this darker side of auto-electronics.

I had one let go, but only because it blew a water hose. I've had a ring-land go, big time (on another RB20DET, not the one I offered you). Chunk of piston hit the end of the sparkplug and shut the gap right down, then shot peened the combustion chamber and top of the piston. Broke a ring, and bent it upwards. Engine ran on 5, sounded like a chaff cutter. Amazingly, the bore is still perfect.

I only need one "for looks" - might be prepared to "swap + $s" if yours is at least whole ie doesn't have to actually work, just look like it might work.

To your original question - the sumps are different between the RWD and AWD versions of the RB20DET - you can't swap sumps between the 2. I just happen to have a RB20DET from a GTS4 sitting on the garage floor (in Melbourne). PM me if you are interested.

This is a dumb comment! Hybrid never mentioned anything about a GTS - infact, Hybrid specifically referred to "Turbo" and "RB20DET".Back to the question. I've done this swap, but it was into a GTS4, so I had to get an engine from a Stagea to get the 4WD sump. That ups the ante for a start. Including the Wolf 3D, I guesstimate it cost me around $8k all up. That also included a flywheel and clutch assembly (my new engine was from an auto, but I intended to do the flywheel / clutch anyway). It would probably cost maybe $5k for just an engine swap, although I did all the labour myself. You don't need to swap gearboxes - my gearbox is happily handling the 180 Awkw (probably 240 fly kw) being pushed through it. If you get a RB25DET with VVT, then you will definitely need the loom from the new engine. Otherwise, simply swap all the RB20 sensors into the RB25, and plug in a RB25DET computer.

1. Internal 2. DISCONNECT BATTERY. Remove electrical connections. Undo the clamping bolt on the adjustment arm. screw the adjustment bolt until you can slip the belt off. Undo 2 bolts on the underside. Remove alternator. 3. NOT ON YOUR NELLIE! Before you do all that, is the fan belt loose? Do you get decent voltage at higher revs?

Nissans are usually set up so that 2 plugs close to each other can't accidentally be connected to the wrong sensor. If both plugs can be connected to the O2 sensor, then probably neither should be connected.

It's probably more noticeable in winter because you tend more to wear things like acrylic jumpers that generate the static.Truth be known, winter is (generally) more humid than summer, but it's not as noticeable because of the lower temperatures.

Check the fluid level in the ATTESSA reservoir, located behind the panel RHS of trunk compartment. Fluid level should be between the 2 markers when the IGN is ON. If it's low, top with ATF.

Try grabbing hold a metal part of the car (door, door pillar, etc) before putting your foot onto the ground. That should at least evenly distribute the static charge between you and the car.

Yes, but is it the coils or the spark plugs that are not working on Cyls 4/5/6? Doubt it's the timing belt, otherwise none would be working.

Have you worked out which 3 cylinders it's running on? (disconnect each coil one at a time - the ones that change the note of the engine are the cylinders that are working). Change the coils so the the "working" ones are on "not-working" cylinders, then repeat the test. This will tell you if it's the coils or the plugs. If the "working" cylinders are now "not working", then it's the coils. Investigate why the "not working" coils are not working. (crook coil, faulty ignitor, etc). If the "working" cylinders don't change, it's the plugs. Investigate what might be wrong with them.

Why not just manufacture a frame that adapts from the seat to your rails?

Unfortunately, not everyone's as wordly wise as we are, niz.

It is! I just went and logged into it, from this thread!

Try: http://www.meggala.com/partcss.htm

I checked the coils on my RB25DET. Between pins IB and G, I got approx 1.4 ohms. There is no continuity on any other pin combination.

Check that the pistons in the calipers are actually moving in and out (not stuck in the caliper). You may need a caliper overhaul. Also, a good quality pad will help. (The Gloria, I think, uses tha same caliper as the Skyline, so it should also use the same pad) The broken tension rod bushing will more affect handling than braking.

Or Near(est) Offer

Gold doesn't corrode (oxidise) like copper.

Not something I carry around in my hip pocket. I'll see what I can do over the weekend. Meanwhile, go and have a look at your engine - I'm sure you will be able to see them (easier from above, down through the plenum runners).

There seems to be a problem with the "Last login" info. All day today (5/8), I've been in and out of the forums, but all day it's been showing my last visit as "Yesterday 7:24pm"

There's usually 2 of them. They are located on the block, underneath the inlet manifold. One is located near Cyl#2, and the other near Cyl#5.

runs between the gearbox and the speedo unit Don't think so. Try a wrecker. Yes. Particularly where it passes through the firewall.First, remove the instrument cluster and confirm that the end of the cable can turn - that will usually mean it's broken somewhere along it's length. AFAIK, they aren't repairable.

www.dba.com.au will tell you