blind_elk

You probably have a broken speedo cable.

Currently upgrading R32 GTS4 set (4.375) to the set from a Stagea (4.08). PM if you are interested. (in Melbourne)

Torque is fed to the front wheels under 1 of 2 (main) conditions: 1. Acceleration 2. Loss of (rear) wheel traction. 1 - sensors under the centre consol sense longitudinal (acceleration) and lateral (cornering) G-forces, then the ATTESSA computer evaluates and sends appropriate drive to the front wheels. 2- uses the ABS sensors to detect rear-wheel slip. I get the "jump" often, usually on the highway where 2 lots of bitumen join. I don't know what causes it exactly, but it's probably a loose / dirty / ? connector somewhere in the ATTESSA system.

You have a good strong battery? You have compression? (horrid thought - lots of bent valves!)

I might have one that will do the job - it's from a C34 Stagea. PM if you're interested.

Hooray, finally. I can reply to a post. Thanks Prank. Now for comments. My PM area seems to have been reduced to only 50 messages! We don't seem to have the "location" info any more. Some of the smilies don't come through (but I think that's a problem with IE rather than the forums).

Didn't mean "made" as in "manufactured", I meant "made to be", ie adjusted to be all the same weight. If you get my drift.

That's a KA-24 engine isn't it? 4-cylinder job? Is there room up front for 2 extra cylinders? What about shoe-horning a VG30DETT from a Z32?

I had a similar problem. I simply removed the Nissan plug and replaced it with standard spade terminals. Works!

AFAIK, the pistons are made the same weight, the rods are made the same weight. Then presumably the piston/rod assemblies all weigh the same. So the reciprocating mass is balanced.Then the crank is matched to the flywheel / clutch, so the rotating mass is balanced.

Thanks Steve. I would hope that they understood the significance of the counterweight. After all, I'm sure it's not the first one they have done. That aside, why would the flywheel not be in balance in the first place? I guess the metallurgy wouldn't necessarily be perfect, so that some portions of the billet might be denser than other areas, right? Or the gear teeth attached to the outside rim might not be perfect, right?

It seems to be a problem in the starter circuitry. When I had that problem, my mech re-wired the starter solenoid so it got power direct from the battery (used the factory trigger wire to switch a relay). Haven't had a problem since.

From memory, pin 7 on the ECU is the tacho signal.

I believe that to be BS for a start. But, it will depend how the 2 lights were disabled as to how easy it will be to enable them. If they have simply cut the wires, then simply re-join / re-solder them. I personally disabled the 2 inner taillamps by simply cutting the wires. So now I have 2 tail and 4 stop lamps.

If the diff is locked (welded), then it's locked. It will be a piglet to park the car. It will skip the inside tyre when doing U-turns. It will be a bigger piglet if you have to push the car around a corner. A LSD is only "locked" when it needs to be, and that is usually only when the centre senses a loss of traction in 1 wheel and transfers drive to the opposite wheel.

Head gasket - don't think so. Pistons - definitely not (RB25 is 8mm bigger bore, your RB20 pistons are only 1.25 mm bigger than standard). And the RB20 pistons are flat-topped, while the RB25's are domed. So even if they fitted, you would have much reduced compression ratio.

I, too, would not be concerned that I had no boost when the engine was cold. Which temp sensor have you swapped? Have you fitted a larger turbo? Have you fitted a boost controller? (what is it set to?) Also, check that the knock sensors are connected and working properly.

The temperature should be governed by the thermostat (mine is a 76.5 deg thermostat). If the engine is overheating, as evidenced by the auxilliary fan coming on, then it is possible the thermostat is not opening fully to allow proper circulation of coolant. Check / replace the thermostat would be my first action.

My bits of engine have come back from the machine shop. Part of the work they did was a balance on the crank / flywheel / clutch. The guy I got to re-asssemble the engine is now all up-in-the-air because the machine shop has drilled into the side of my light-weight, CNC-machined, billet Aluminium flywheel to balance it. The "hole" is right under where a counterweight had been fitted to the pressure plate (at manufacture time). My engine guy reckons the machine shop should have simply moved the little counterweight, &/or added weight to the pressure plate only. The people I got the flywheel from in the first place reckon it's done all the time (removing metal from the flywheel). What should I do? Should I complain to the machiners, or tell my engine guy to get a life? Any (constructive / instructive) comments appreciated. TIA

I've got the Stagea RB25DET in my R32 GTS4. The gearing is way wrong for the torque of the engine, so I got hold of a Stagea rear diff (already have the front; came with the engine). Looking at the manual for removing the diff, it talks about moving the HICAS out of the way. Got me thinking - is the Stagea diff going to have the appropriate places to re-connect the HICAS? Does the Stagea run HICAS? TIA

Know how you feel, G. I had the same problem , but with the right leg. I would come home from work in agony, and curl up on the lounge floor in a foetal position for up to 2 hours before the pain would subside. Problem for me was it took 18 months to work out what the problem was, and get it fixed. I had the op done on a Wednesday afternoon, and was home Sunday night. Then about 3 weeks later I was allowed to go back to work (that was the really boring bit- there is only so much daytime tele a man can take!) Anyway, good luck with the op. Enjoy the pain killer on the first night (supp-type).

Andrew @ Traction Tyres in Rowville Craig @ Trackside Tyres in Bayswater.

I did this conversion on a GTS4. The RB25DET drops straight in and the gearbox bolts straight up onto the engine. Next step is to fit a 4.08 diff set to replace the stock 4.375 - RB25DET just has too much torque for the current ratios.