blind_elk

I just did a Google search for "torque gauge attessa". Top of the list - this thread. But also there was a link to another thread on here, and a link to the wikipedia page for attessa, which describes how attessa works. Both these items should lead you to the conclusion that a constant reading on the torque gauge is generally caused by the rear tyres being smaller diameter than the fronts, indicating a "slip" condition to the ATTESSA computer.

Redtops have "NICS" on the manifold, as distinct from "ECCS" on the pictured manifold. Redtops are generally from R30 / R31 Skylines, Silvertops are R32 (although that engine bay doesn't look very "R32").

The workings of ATTESSA has been done to death. A search of these forums should get you an answer to your question.

The original engine was a turbo, so you should have all the extras to handle it. Just tell the rego people that you changed the engine number, show them the receipt for the engine, should be good. It's only a problem fitting a turbo engine if the original engine was n/a, because the car doesn't have the goods - in particular, brakes - to handle the additional power of the turbo.

Have you considered using the next gear down, to keep the engine in its power band?

A 215 tyre on a 9" rim is too narrow. I run 235s on 8", you probably need to run at least that, if not a 245. And there is any number of threads on handling options, so do a search. But, upgraded sway bars are a must. And if the Cuscos are infinitely adjustable for height, ie screw platform, then you need to get the car corner weighted. Badly adjusted height could well be the major contributor to poor handling. Not too sure what effect engine and gearbox mounts have on handling, since handling is more a function of suspension design and weight distribution.

Have you actually measured the fuel pressure? All the signs are that too much fuel is being delivered, and too high fuel pressure will do that.

Sad day for the automotive industry in Australia. But, Ford has been complaining that the Falcon is not selling. Is it any wonder - when was the last time you saw an ad for the Falcon? Ford are advertising Territorys, Fiestas, Focuses, every model other than the Falcon.

Are you still running the factory fan? The gauge indicates temperature by the sender varying the resistance to earth. Touch the sender end of the wire to an earth, and the gauge will go full scale. So, you mighty have a wiring problem that earths out on uphills - strange, but stranger things have happened. And yes, it could be a problem with the thermostat not fully opening. New thermostat = cheap attempt to fix.

Stock ECU? Have you tried resetting it? How old is the battery?

I have one. I think it came out of my R30 (L24E).

That's 158 @ flywheel, vs 171 @ wheels (probably).

No. What you are effectively doing is inserting a catch can into the little hose that runs from the ex rocker to the turbo. The can - more technically "oil-air separator" - will condense out the oil vapour (particularly if you fill the can with some steel wool). The in and ex covers are still connect by the "U" hose. It's PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PVC is PolyVinylChloride). It only opens under high vacuum (basically @idle), and ingesting a bit of oil vapour at less than atmospheric is not adverse for the engine.

Are you sure you couldn't have done a more complex job on the plumbing? The simple solution is to simply run a line from the ex rocker cover to the catch can, and another line from the catch can up to the turbo inlet. Everything else remains as per factory. It might then solve your (lack of) boost problem.

It's likely the thermostat isn't closing properly. As a result you are circulating cold water around the engine. So it takes longer for the water to come up to temperature. (had the same problem with my XF Falcon) You should be able to get a replacement thermostat fitted before tomorrow.

Under hard right foot, you are probably getting "torque steer", generally caused by uneven length half-shafts. It is probably unrelated to your main problem. When you say "fluid level ok", which fluid are you talking about - ATTESSA fluid in the RR boot, or P/S fluid. (R32s use the P/S system for HICAS). You shouldn't have problems as a daily drive, just don't "launch it" and it won't try and step sideways!

Would have been nice to know from the beginning that you had an aftermarket ECU. The Microtech will be programmed to aim for a particular rpm @idle. It will also have different fuel and ignition maps from a stock ECU. So the things that work for a stock ECU won't necessarily work for you. I'm pretty sure it will be something in the programming of the Microtech that is causing this problem. FYI - I run a Wolf on my RB25DET, and I have never had to adjust the AAC valve to set the idle. Idle is controlled by the settings in the Wolf, and it idles around 800.

So are you running a Microtech ECU? Have you checked the target rpm @idle? Have you checked timing maps @idle? Have you checked fuel maps @idle?

Actually, thinking about it further, what is happening is perfectly logical. The car has certain items that draw permanent battery current, eg clock, radio battery backup, alarm - they all rely on having permanent power from the battery. They all earth to the body of the car, and under ordinary circumstance would have a completed circuit through the chassis and the earth strap to the battery -ve. But since I've disconnected the earth strap from the chassis, the circuit is incomplete. Touching the strap to the chassis completes the circuit, and the resultant current flow causes a few sparks at the strap / chassis contact point as the initial contact is made.

I've been having problems recently where the car doesn't want to start cleanly without a jump start. It is symptomatic of a bad earth. So today I disconnected the main earth cable to clean the points of contact with the engine / chassis. At some stage, I accidentally touched the earth cable to the chassis and got sparks. Checked with the multimeter, and I have 12V differential between the strut nut and battery -ve. There is no voltage between +ve battery and chassis. So somehow the chassis is "live". Any suggestions as to where to even start looking. Could it be something in the alarm, because I noticed when touching the cable to chassis that the door locks appeared to be switching. Any help greatly appreciated.

I've been having problems recently where the car doesn't want to start cleanly without a jump start. It is symptomatic of a bad earth. So today I disconnected the main earth cable to clean the points of contact with the engine / chassis. At some stage, I accidentally touched the earth cable to the chassis and got sparks. Checked with the multimeter, and I have 12V differential between the strut nut and battery -ve. There is no voltage between +ve battery and chassis. So somehow the chassis is "live". Any suggestions as to where to even start looking. Could it be something in the alarm, because I noticed when touching the cable to chassis that the door locks appeared to be switching. Any help greatly appreciated.

I've been having problems recently where the car doesn't want to start cleanly without a jump start. It is symptomatic of a bad earth. So today I disconnected the main earth cable to clean the points of contact with the engine / chassis. At some stage, I accidentally touched the earth cable to the chassis and got sparks. Checked with the multimeter, and I have 12V differential between the strut nut and battery -ve. There is no voltage between +ve battery and chassis. So somehow the chassis is "live". Any suggestions as to where to even start looking. Could it be something in the alarm, because I noticed when touching the cable to chassis that the door locks appeared to be switching. Any help greatly appreciated.

A few other things: RB25DET P/S pump - $40 RB25DET A/C compressor - $60 (both from a Stagea)

This is a copy, doesn't have mounting screws/pins. Slight chip. I originally purchased this to mount on a R30 sedan - never happened. Located Melb W Subs. $50

According to YellowPages.com.au, Garry Millane Motor Trimmers in East Perth is an agent.