blind_elk

If you run them all the time, you are basically defeating the purpose of fitting them (other than they look prettier than the factory one). The alternator, and hence the engine, has to work harder to keep power available. If you aren't going to run them off a thermo switch, then at least run them off a manual override switch - you turn them on when you think they need to be on. Personally, haven't had much success with the thermo setup. You need to ensure that the air is going to go through the radiator (the factory fan ensures this will happen), otherwise your engine will be continually overheating. Mine even turned the fan on on a slight incline @110kph on a mild (say 23C) day!

I would expect the ribbing to be indicative of the strength of the casing itself, not necessarily the internals. I have a GTS4 fitted with a RB25DET pumping 180 kW at 4 wheels (I guesstimate 240 at the flywheel), through the standard GTS4 (manual) gearbox. It hasn't shown any sign of not being able to cope. In fact, I have burn marks on the HD clutch where the clutch slipped while trying to right a half-flipped car.

That's the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS), and you need to separate it from its mounting frame. Firstly, near one of the three bolts holding it in position, make a mark of sorts (paint is best) across the joint. (you will now be able to reassemble it and not upset the ignition timing). Disconnect the electrical plug from the CAS. Undo the 3 bolts securing the CAS to its frame and carefully withdraw it. Install the CAS / cam cover (hope you got the retaing bolts with it!). Reinstall the CAS - CAUTION - there is a semi-circular mating "tongue" in the CAS and the camshaft, so make sure these are going to align correctly. Rotate the CAS until the 2 paint marks align, then install the 3 bolts and tighten. Have I left anything out, anyone?? Would be wise not the thrash the engine, but drive it reasonably sensibly to a mechanic who knows how to set the base timing, as a precautionary measure.

Engine is under vacuum at idle, so BOV leaks additional air into the engine, severely leaning the mixture.

It's for a thermal switch that activates an A/C radiator fan. You could use the same switch to activate a thermo fan.

Jetspeed in Clayton have a GT-R copy front bar (although I reckon it's way too wide). Also japanese Motorsports in Adelaide (I got mine from there, but it needed a fir bit of extra work to make it strong enough).And I think places like Autobarn have the rear wings. Or any wrecker (check Zoom1 / HPI advertisers).

is your friend

You have a BOV that vents to atmosphere? Or the AAC valve needs cleaning (do a search).

If you simply add the GT-R rear wing, and get a copy front bar, to the uninitiated (ie Toymitsufalcodore owners) it will be a GT-R.

Not sure how cats go when you throw raw (ie unburnt) petrol through them. You may have damaged the catalyst material to the point where it is partially blocking the cat. This causes excessive temperatures to build up in the exhaust / cat.

Just had a lookup on the R32 GT-R workshop manual. Specs are (@300 rpm): Std: 171 psi low limit: 128 psi variation between cylinders: 14 psi (not clear if this is avg +/- 14, or hi - lo = 14) Would imagine similar numbers for the other RB engines. Just FYI, method is: Remove all spark plugs insert gauge in plug hole Full throttle crank

I would say that the engine is in pretty good nick for 100k+. I think acceptable variation is +/- 10%, so I would guess anywhere between 130 and 155 would be acceptable. (average is around 143)

Try cleaning the injectors - they may have a bit of gum build-up, permitting too much fuel to be injected. Try going for a "cruise" along the highway - the Central Coast must be nice this time of year.

Open out a paperclip and jam it down the middle wire of the connector plug. Connect the multimeter +ve to the clip, and the -ve to earth. Set scale on 12V DC. At around 2000 rpm, voltage should vary between 0 - 1 V

The box will bolt straight up to the 20's bum. Not sure how the RB25's speedo works (where it's different), but it's electronic, and the RB20's is mechanically driven.

That will be for the carbon canister, usually located passenger side, just in front of the (standard) air box.

Maybe wheel bearings?

I have one from a C34 Stagea (RB25DET engine) that might do the trick. Say, $100 PM me for details

Read what has been posted - R32 GTST IS LEGAL.Sticking a RB26DETT in a R32 GTSt is illegal - the power of the RB26DETT : weight of R32 GTSt is WAY OVER the limit. There are 2 limits (which you will find in any 1 of the 7, 363, 498 threads on this subject) which are applicable: 125 kW / Tonne or 3.5 litres engine capacity / Tonne And if you modify a car which would ordinarily be under either of these limits so that it then exceeds either of these limits, then that also is illegal for a P-plater to drive. eg sticking a 5.7 V8 in a formerly 3.3 (older) Holden. Or the RB26DETT into a R32 GTSt.

Which bit are you planning on putting into the R32 - the RB25DET engine, the RB25DET gearbox, or both?

My understanding is that you already have toe OUT and -ve camber. So should be wearing INSIDE of tread. I asked around and came up with : Do you live in a COURT (as distinct from street, avenue, etc)?

If the engine is not very healthy, then the car is worth virtually nothing. So not really any point selling it. If it's broken a ring, you should stop driving it, otherwise you risk scoring the bore beyond repair. Check out the advertisers in Zoom! / HPI for a straight up replacement engine. Maybe then you can rebuild this one a bit later, and as you can afford various bits for it.

Is that your "city cycle" economy. If so, it's unlikely a new O2 sensor will help, because, as has been mentioned too many times on these forums, the O2 sensor really only works under constant throttle (cruise) conditions. Around town, you get very little time on cruise (compared to "highway cycle").

But will they fit properly on the rims? 40mm (2 1/2 inches) of tread width is a fair bit of width.

Solved half the problem - the springs were in UPSIDE DOWN. They are wound tighter at one end, and that end has to be the top. So, pulled the out, flipped them - feels a bit better now. I've got the cable tie on there, will check it later.