blind_elk

That's OK if you have X-ray vision to see through the rubber boots. (Do I really need them?) They are Pedders HD lowered springs. I originally had their "standard height" HD springs. I was going to post on your thread, but when I measured them up, I found that both sets would be identical (same wire diameter, same coil diameter, same active coils, just wound to less free length).That being the case, why is the ride, on a relatively smooth main road, so much harsher - it can't possibly be sitting on the bump-stops.

If you have had to gap the plugs down to 0.6mm (that's only slightly more than HALF the design spec of 1.1mm!) then you have a serious problem in the ignition department. It's possible the acceleration enrichment needs some work as well.

You might have got a bit of water spray up onto the CAS. And it's always possible water went up high enough that it sat on the valley cover and then ran down into the coils / plugs.

Softer springs will help, but the valving of the shocks (how they handle bump and rebound) will also affect the ride. I just put lowered springs in my R30, and because the shaft of the shock now sits further into the shocker body, it has totally changed the ride characteristics (quite harsh now). Same when I lowered the 32 on standard shocks.

Why do you think you might want to buy this particular car? Rule #1 of any financial transaction - if the deal appears to be too good to be true, then it probably is (and you will get stung). Rule #2 - always refer to Rule #1. If you have any doubts whatsoever, drop it. There will be other cars come along that will suit your requirements.

They actually re-form the springs by heating them while under compression.

Changing the fuel pressure WILL NOT alter the duty cycle (although it will alter the REQUIRED duty cycle, but you have to change that). All it will alter is the amount of fuel that gets injected during the "injector open" period. If you back off the base pressure, then you will effectively lean off the mixture. If you increase the pressure, you will richen the mixture. The copious quantities of black coming from the exhaust suggest you need to reduce the pressure a bit.

You could BORROW the whole cross-over pipe from my RB25DET while the engine is out being fixed. PM me.

The O2 sensor is useless when you are at full throttle, so the tuner was having an enormous lend of you. O2 sensors really only work on cruise. As for the lack of performance > 10psi, was the PFC tuned for that boost level?

Only if your 30mm bar is hollow and the smaller one is solid. Driving around without it might not make any difference, because the car may now understeer because it's able to induce too much positive camber. Ask someone like Whiteline (their website has a comparison table that might be useful, but you'll need to know what size the factory bar is)

Nulon make an additive that it claims can clear the lifters (presumably if you get them early enough). So, try an oil AND filter change (it is possible to get the filter off with the strap type wrenches that have the screw down the middle). Even leave it draining overnight to get as much as possible of the old oil out. Add some good quality 10-30 synthetic and the Nulon (it's called something like "Lifter Clean" - very imaginative!)

I know I said it makes sense to have them both the same. But I'm in a position where I want to fit the Stagea front diff, but I need a matching rear diff. Someone has suggested that there is some sort of slip between the front and rear, so that the ratios don't necessarily need to be identical. Is this the case? Does anyone know for certain that the front and rear ratios in AWD Nissans have to be the same? TIA

30mm swaybar seems awfully big. The Whiteline upgrade for a R32 is only 24mm (I think you have a Cefiro, is that what a CA31 is?). I would expect your standard bar would be similar to a R32's. A BIG front swaybar will accentuate any tendency for understeer.

Yes, that's the P/S reservoir.

RB25DET coils don't appear to have a Nissan Part#. Only marking I can find (remember, these are off a Stagea RB25DET) is: HANSHIN MCP-1330 RB20DET coils appear to be Nissan P/N 22433-60U02

What if he was running PULP or Hi-Octane (Optimax, etc)? Could that make a difference?

Oops, how did you manage that? Most wreckers I figure would want to keep the engine whole. You need to hope they have one with a shot block. Datspares in Clayton is the only one that comes readily to mind. Oh, Datparts (?) in FTG (maybe, I think they are more 4-cyl stuff). Otherwise, let your fingers do the walking (Yellow Pages). A possible upgrade is a 240Z head, but they will: 1. be expensive 2. require the injector recesses to be machined into the inlet ports. You can talk to Lindsay at Z Shop in Glen Iris about that option (he might have a L24E head)

It's definitely been discussed before. If the fluid level is OK, then you may have an air bubble or similar in the ATTESSA system (the one in the boot / trunk; the steering fluid affects HICAS). You also need to have the ignition ON when you check / top-up the 4WD reservoir. You can fill with Dextron III or similar.

1 step backwards - where is all this information / numbers coming from? Back to your last question - if you are running stock ECU (which I'm guessing you aren't, because they don't give out this sort of info), they are programmed to run richer at the top end, to protect the engine.

I don't think there is any apparent physical difference between the 2 types. At the rear of the valley cover, there may be 4 bolt holes. This is where the ignitor should ordinarily sit if you are running S1 coils and an ignitor. If you just have 4 bolt holes, then you are more than likely running S2 coils. I have mine out ATM (engine being re-built), so I'll try and remember to get a part number or something off them tonight (they are the in-built ignitor type, but from a Stagea).

The duty cycle of the injectors is controlled solely by the ECU, based on information it receives from the various sensors on the engine (temp, air flow, throttle position, etc). The ECU is relying on the pump and regulator to be working "as designed" - it doesn't have any sensor input from them. The ECU computes the injector opening time based on the info from the sensors, including how much air it has computed is available, and directs the injector to open for a certain time. This is why engines melt pistons when fuel pumps start to "go off" - the pump can't supply enough pressure, which is the sole determinant of how much fuel gets injected while the injector is open. So the fuel mixture is over-lean (not enough fuel).

YOU WON'T DIE. I've done battery connect / disconnect numerous times. And I've accidentally created the spark show on many of those occassions.

S2 coils have inbuilt ignitors, S1 require an ignitor module (little black box, usually located on top of the valley cover, at the rear).

It could be the ignitor module itself. They seem prone to breaking down when hot.

I would expect that as the rotor rotates in it's normal direction, then the bit of slot nearest the centre / hub should enter the caliper first, and the outer end of the slot should enter last. If you were to put a pointer of some sort into the slot, then as the rotor rotates, the pointer would move from the inner to the outer end of the slot. Viewing the driver's side, with the slot at the top of the rotor, the slot should look like , and the passenger side should look like /. This orientation allows for hot gasses and other crap to be thrown to the outer edge of the rotor rather than being all bunched up near the hub.