blind_elk

That was my initial thought.

I don't think it's the level sender - that's not bigger than a ciggy packet. And it will still (hopefully) be attached to the pump bracket. If there was a problem with the fuel gauge, then this doover is interfering with the operation of the sender's float. But I have NFI what the thing really is.

Sorry for the minor hi-jack, but just needed to say that the only stupid question is the one you don't ask.

The sunlight load sensor may not be faulty. Even parking under a tree on a bright summer day can still produce a "faulty" sunlight load sensor. Shine a bright torch on it while in diagnostic mode to confirm if it's faulty. The PBR has been covered previously - do a search (from a while ago, maybe 12 months or more).

If you are venting it to the inlet plumbing, then the can needs to be sealed, otherwise the inlet simply pulls (un-metered) air through the can vent. And you probably want it returning PRE-turbo, otherwise you'll blow all the air back through the can under boost.

Stick with the Mazda. Sick a couple of Recaros in it for the comfort factor.

The GT-R bar may be made from a thicker-walled tube, which would make it a "heavier" bar, both weight-wise and torsionally. I reckon the Whiteline bar is solid.

There's one with 4 wheel DRIVE (actually 2 - the GT-R and the GTS4), and all of them with 4 wheel STEER. You can get away with any P/S fluid.

Denny, I don't think you can get just the boots - you need to buy the whole tie-rod. And if that's the case, you may as well buy brand new ones (both sides). I know it's a pain, but that's how the parts are sold.

Get hold of a multi-meter, set to 20V DC. Fire up the engine.Measure V across battery terminals - should be around 14V at idle Now increase revs- V should remain around 14V. If V increases, then regulator is kaput.

You can get telescopic magnets (probably from Autobarn, Repco, etc) - stick that down the plug hole and it should attract and hold the errant screw.

I've only got the engine. I had to cannibalise the loom, and the ECU is for a GTS4 (so the engine has a GTS4 sump as well).

Most commonly the seals in the master cylinder. But I had a similar situation where it was the ABS unit.

Sounds like the ECU might be from a N/A engine. Have you made sure the diagnostics dial is returned to a "normal" position? What's the actual part number on both ECUs? (next to the "NISSAN" on the label). It will be like 23710 04U60 (that's the ECU from my GTS4 / RB20DET).

If you want some help, check your PM.

Me and my #2 piston will be there.

I'll have 5 pistons available next week or so (except #2 which is not a pretty sight after a tiny bout of detonation). But I need the rods myself for the rebuild.

Uprated springs and shock absorbers won't go astray. I'm personally not a fan of coilovers (the adjustable type) for basic road-cars - just don't see the need for them. Springs and shocks can only do so much. If you want to stop the body roll with springs only, then you will be up for a kidney transplant inside a week (the ride will be sooooo harsh and stiff, you will feel it when you drive over a cigarette paper!). Anti-roll bars (sway bars) will solve that part of your problem. Check out www.whiteline.com.au - they have a kit for the R33. Track and drift are different. You don't want drift at the track. And the suspension setup for one will (probably) be incompatible with the suspension requirements of the other. But as in all things, it's all a compromise.

Yes, check the brake fluid level. The revs is because the brake booster is taking some air out of the induction, and the pedal problem is because you probably have a bad seal somewhere in the brake system, which is why your fluid level is low and turning on the brake warning light.

PM sent

$950 + GST for ACL Hyperlite forged pistons - sounds pretty good to me. (FYI - Arias from Rocket around $1300)

Standard RB20 wastegate regulates to around 7psi, which is probably what the VG30 does as well. If you're running 13psi, then you either have a wastgate bleed, or a sticky wastegate. On crusie, you shouldn't be on boost, so changing the wastegate won't make a scrap of difference.

I don't know if they make the NEO in 4WD (maybe the Stagea has one?). But this is a Stagea engine anyways, which cost me nearly $4G in the first place. Not sure I can go another $4G, although the rebuild is probably going to be close to that anyway.Just don't like the idea of trying to sell off the bits - still trying to sell the 2 RB20s I've got cluttering up the garage (much to the distaste of "she who doesn't really need to be obeyed"). Thanks for the thought anyway. I'm investigating pricing for some ACL forgies - will let you know how that goes.

Well, I finally got the engine out and disassembled. It pooped the ring land around #2 ring in #2 cylinder, broke the ring, and (lightly) scored the bore. I'm still in a quandary about replacement pistons. I still don't know whether to go to the expense of forged, or fit standard Nissan replacements and just keep the car away from the racetrack (build a dunger for competition). The guy I'll get to re-assemble the engine says he would go straight to forged since the opportunity is there. But it's not his money that's paying for them. Others say Nissan pistons should be capable of withstanding the power output (180 Awkw). I'm really confused, and I can't proceed with all the machining and balancing until I get the pistons. Please help.

Certainly, if the pressure is too low, it is unlikely the engine will run well. But the maximum pressure is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator (little cylinder thing in the middle of the fuel rail), so even if the pump is pumping too hard, the engine should still run OK.