blind_elk

Maybe 280ZX - from a wrecker. Are you having troubles with your current one? I was - it would just cut out, actually, wouldn't start at engine start. So I applied the first rule of auto repairs - hit it with a bigger hammer! And it started working again. But I guess I really should replace it soon.

Anyone have an engine stand I can borrow while I disassemble the RB25 before it goes for machining? TIA

If its kicking back, then the timing is TOOOOO advanced. You shouldn't be able to get it so advanced because of the half-moon tabs in the CAS, but the camshaft side has been known to part company, and then you can set the CAS wherever you like.

I think they are around $250 each (that's what they cost me about 3 years ago). Cost $400 to repair! (both)

AFAIK, they ARE bolts. And they're usually not done up all that tight.It should be easy enough to remove the AAC, strip it down, clean it up, re-assemble and re-install.

You will totally confuse ATTESSA if you have different rolling diameters front and rear.

Don't worry too much about the calipers. The GT-R rotors tend to crack around the cross-drilled holes, and they really don't contribute that much extra to braking efficiency. Just get some DBA slotted rotors. (@ www.dba.com.au)

Have a chat to the guys at Quadrant Suspensions. I just had my Bilsteins rebuilt there (leaking). They might be able to reco them for you.

I suspect you will find it is a problem of the combination of turbos and controller. It is likely that the turbos cannot work efficiently when pumping as much boost as you are pumping (you haven't stated the boost your controller is permitting). Try dropping the boost back a bit and see what happens. As for the "straining" of the pump, have you changed the fuel filter recently?

Usually, a problem in the TPS is a constant high (around 1500 - 2000 rpm) idle. Usually caused by the sensor getting out of alignment and not sending the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU. Variable idle is usually caused by a dirty / sticking AAC valve. That's the little cylinder on the back of the plenum chamber. It can be removed, disassembled and cleaned out with a bit of Car-B-Clean, then re-assembled and re-fitted without too much drama.

It might be an easy way to separate the sump and block, but it could well be a b*****d getting it back together. But the amount of rubbish you need to remove to lift the engine out could well make the "drop the sump" route so much easier.As I said, "work on RB-series engine" and "not difficult" are totally incompatible terms. The other half of the conrod end. The conrod has 2 semi-circular bits, where the bearings sit, that are bolted together around the crankshaft. Make sure the bearings are around the right way, and the caps go back on in the correct orientation to the rod.

Your local Nissan dealer should be able to get them. "Working on RB-series engine" and "not too difficult" are incompatible terms! If the engine is still in the car, then have fun - you need to drop the sump. To do that, you need to dis-assemble the front suspension. And you probably need to remove the X-member - which requires an engine crane or block-and-tackle to support the engine while you do the job. If you don't already have one, get yourself a good tension wrench for tightening the cap bolts.

PMd you back - waiting for your call.

I've got one here somewhere. $60 and it's yours.

I think you use the dipstick tube to add the fluid (not that I'm an "auto" man myself). Also, I think the trans needs to be in 'D' before you check (if it's 'E' in neutral, then I'm pretty sure it will be 'E' when in gear!)

You can purchase them pre-gapped. Just buy the plugs with the number that ends "-8" ( = 0.8mm gap) - the standard, recommended plug ends in "-11" ( = 1.1mm gap). You shouldn't need to gap them down anyway. If you find that you do, then you should be looking at the coil packs, not the plugs.

For short term, like a single power run, it's OK to pull the fuse. If you are doing extended runs, like when tuning, then just drop the front shaft out (the one between the transfer case and front diff.

There should be a big "block" (about 6" cube) near the LH strut tower (above the turbo), with a whole bunch of pipes going in and out of it - that will be the ABS unit.

Waz, if you had a RB25, then you'd know which pipe iam_dominic was talking about. I think it's something to do with the oil return from the head, but I need to finish removing the head from my RB25 to confirm that.

I was talking with a guy at the Melbourne Motorsport Show who said he could give us a discount on a bulk buy of Ferodo brake pads. I've finally found his business card and raised the prospect with him. So, what I need to know is: how many people here would be interested in Ferodo pads at a 10% discount on retail? The deal at the moment is: Fronts (equivalent to DB1170) FCP986 H (DS2500) $238.00 FCP986 R (DS3000) $366.00 Rears (equivalent to DB1220) FCP1372 H $209.00 FCP1372 R $370.00 less 10% for orders of 10 sets or more. Freight (from ACT) is still to be decided (might cancel out any benefit of the discount).

Oops, forgot, it doesn't have a differential either.

The thing is, you don't want the wastegate opening prematurely. If you activate the wastegate off the back of the compressor, then the wastegate opens when the compressor "spikes". Also, you get more wastegate creep having the "signal" close to the wastegate. If you run the wastegate off the back of the compressor, then the engine "sees" wastegate setting minus pressure drop. If you run the wastegate off the plenum, then the engine "sees" wastegate setting. I know which one I'd rather be running.

I need to find a new storage location for a AWD auto transmission from a Stagea (came attached to my RB25DET engine upgrade). $500 (delivered metropolitan Melbourne). Freight anywhere else at buyer's expense.

Have the RB20DET out of my GTS4 for sale. It was a running engine when I removed it (upgraded to RB25DET). It has had the timing belt and water pump replaced in the last 10k km. It is minus turbo and coil packs. Complete with 4WD sump, but I'm led to believe you can fit a 2WD sump to it. $750 (delivered in metropolitan Melbourne). Freight anywhere else at buyer's expense.

Pretty certain it doesn't matter. One side is power, the other side gets switched via the ECU.