blind_elk

Check the dipstick - that will tell you whether you have enough oil in the engine.

Maybe not such a bad idea, Roy.Just having a look at the ACL cattledog, These are the differences: RB25 crown = 11.5cc dome GTR crown = 16.3cc dome RB25 comp height = 31.3mm GTR comp height = 30.3 (What's "comp height"? is it like pinion-to-crown distance, or something?) And GTR pistons are slightly lighter (RB25 = 442g, GTR = 428g), although I'll probably be getting the rods and pistons balanced anyway. ACL piston drops C/R on the RB25 from 9 down to 8.5 Another possibility would be a 1mm overbore and fit VG30DETT pistons (9cc dish, 32 mm comp height, 8.5 CR)

Lot of stuffing around, but it will be MUCH easier to work on if you remove it from the car. And to do that, you need to remove the instrument cluster (to get at a bolt up the top), amongst other things. Been there, done that. The pedal box is distorting, and remove some of the "throw" off the pedal onto the clutch master.

I think you will find that if you modify a car so that it exceeds the P/W limit, it will become illegal for a P-plater eg fitting a RB25DET or RB26DETT to a GTSt will make the car illegal for a P-plater.

Unfortunately, didn't think of it at the time, and it now has a nice tankful of Synergy 8000 sitting on top of what was left of 2 separate servo's BP Ultimate. (But I think it would have to have been the first servo's, since the second was as a top-up - maybe 1/4 tank - on the way up to Winton)Geoff, OK to call you over the weekend?

Someone might have stuck one in there.What does the rocker cover look like? RB30 (3L) has "boxy" sort of cover, L24E has smooth rounded lines. Also, RB30 is cross-flow design (inlet and exhaust manifolds on opposite sides of the engine), L24E has inlet and exhaust manifolds on same side.

There's no adjustment in the stock suspension, so it would be a total waste of your money and their time to try and do anything. You will haver to change something - springs &/or shocks - to achieve any improvement. Talk to Andrew over at Traction Tyres in Rowville, he won't steer you wrong.

amplifier = Ignitor Its about the size of a deck of playing cards, roughly speaking, and is located at the rear of the valley cover (the bit with "2500 24 valve" on it) between the 2 rocker covers. If you have an igniter / amplifier, it will be obvious.

Now that you mention it, there was a case over on SDU - some sucker in the States, turned out the water pump had next to no vanes on the pump's impeller wheel :Oops:

That's a different mob altogether! They do the State Race series - actual racing (we do "sprinting", which is just against yourself and the clock). You need a C3 licence (minimum) for that.

Did you bleed the air out of the cooling system (through the little bleed valve near the front of the inlet manifold)?

Don't know which MSCA site you're looking at - try www.cm510.com, and follow the link to the MSCA area. There you will be able to download the current entry form. You will need to get your entry in by the end of next week (May 27) at the very latest. From memory, the entry fee is around $100, but it will be listed on the entry form. Ring the event secretary (listed on the entry form) and let him know you are entering. For yourself, you will need a helmet and some common sense (don't go haring into turn 1 and roll it - like an idiot Fiat driver did a couple of years ago on a familiarisation lap!); for your car you will need a fire extinguisher, auxilliary bonnet restraint, valve caps. Some decent brake pads won't go astray. Any further questions, email Justin (NDSOC competition secretary) at [email protected] It's likely I will be there, spectating only (see my "bloody 'precious' RB engines" thread in Maintenance). Ask around, most of them know me (as Greg, not as blind_elk). Word of advice - if it's your first time out on a racetrack, or Sandown, TAKE IT EASY - there are no sheep stations at stake here. You are out there to have fun and to LEARN.

ECU = Wolf 3D 4+ Pump = Bosch motorsport FPR = standard Speed Tech said engine has definitely been running lean, but no-one really understands why, when Wolf was tuned rich. Although they reckon a "5" NGK Iridium (NGK catalogue) was a bit hot for the engine. (should have been at least a "6", and probably a "7" would have been even better) Nulon sounded like a good idea at the time, but I really don't think it played any part in this. The engine survived Wakefield Park at Easter and Morwell Hillclimb a couple of weeks ago, and nothing has changed in that time. I did notice an unexpected "tinkling" during an overtaking move on the way up to Winton, so I'm beginning to suspect a crook batch of BP Ultimate may have played a part. But maybe someting stupid like the fuel filter starting to block up, who knows? Anyway, will start stripping it down this weekend and have a good look at what happened. Plan to do a balance job on it while it's apart also. Duncan, thanks the info. Do they have a website?

Got contact details for Rocket?

Still running the factory viscous clutch fan? Still has the little undertray thingy between the radiator and the engine X-member? Does it have a front-mount intercooler?

How I long for an engine like the old L-series. You could treat them as bad as you liked, and they remained bullet-proof. Not like these precious little darling RB engines you get nowadays. I was at Winton Sunday when the engine started billowing smoke. After I pulled into the pits, I found the dipstick lying across the engine bay, and the RHS of the engine bay protect-a-coated in brand new Castrol 5W/30 Synthetic R with Nulon E20 additive. Dropped it over to Speed Technology today, and they confirmed my worst fears - #2 piston has a pretty bad case of leak down. And the spark plug had no ceramic left :Oops: So now it's time for a rebuild. My question is - should I go to the expense of forged pistons, or will Mr Nissan's OE pistons be sufficient to support the 180-odd 4wkw the engine is producing? If I should go "forgies", whose pistons? TIA

If they are pointing RIGHT DOWN, then have you checked that the globes are sitting correctly in their holders? To adjust the aim, from memory, there are 2 screws that you can see when looking down on the headlamp assembly. One adjusts L-R, the other adjusts U-D.

My experience has been that you bend the axle housing (180B SSS).

A possible upgrade for the L20ET is a RB20DET BB turbo - got to be better than the restrictive POS they fit as OE. That's what I've done to mine, now just need to fit it to a car!

Cable-tie the welding rod to the dial gauge's rod?

AFAIK, they both have the same pinouts on the ECU. So the looms should be the same, and the RB25 ECU will plug straight in where the RB20 ECU came out. Only problem will come if you fitted a RB25DET with VVT. There is an Engine Manual available from www.jpnz.co.nz that has info on the R32 engines. As I said, I think the RB25s are the same (certainly all the RB26s will be the same across the R32 - R34 range, and most of the RB20 pinouts are the same as the equivalent RB26 pinouts).

Not sure of the diff - I think it's an R200, and I think it will be an open spinner (ie non-LSD). As for suspension, fit some decent replacement shock cartridges (eg KYB make some) and some decent springs (Lovells, Kings make lowered sets). Fit urethane bushes. Maybe upgraded anti-roll bars. I'm currently working on a conversion to fit Z31 (4-stud) rotors to the fronts. Otherwise, the brakes are OK.

On the passenger side of the car, down the back of the engine, basically under the dump pipe. Engine block has a flange where the gearbox bolts up - E/N is on the upper surface of that flange. You might need to wire brush the surface to see the number. And a torch to illuminate it.

go to www.jpnz.co.nz and purchase the R32 Engine Manual. That has all the info you require. Some of the info is also available here in old posts, so a might prove useful.

From memory, the resistance (ohms) between pins 1 & 2 (the top 2) should be 0 when the throttle is closed. A quick check would be to remove the plug while the engine is running, and short the 2 pins on the loom side with a paperclip. If the revs suddenly drop, then you need to adjust the TPS.