blind_elk

On the passenger side of the car, down the back of the engine, basically under the dump pipe. Engine block has a flange where the gearbox bolts up - E/N is on the upper surface of that flange. You might need to wire brush the surface to see the number. And a torch to illuminate it.

go to www.jpnz.co.nz and purchase the R32 Engine Manual. That has all the info you require. Some of the info is also available here in old posts, so a might prove useful.

From memory, the resistance (ohms) between pins 1 & 2 (the top 2) should be 0 when the throttle is closed. A quick check would be to remove the plug while the engine is running, and short the 2 pins on the loom side with a paperclip. If the revs suddenly drop, then you need to adjust the TPS.

There should be a spot on the underside of the inlet plenum where you can "hang" the end free from.

You're not looking at all well, SS8. I think you should stay away from work next Tuesday - don't want to pass on what you have to your workmates now, do you? :headspin:

When you replaced the throttle body, did you set the TPS? Check the TPS is sending the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU.

I think it's some sort of breather hose. I don't fully understand its purpose, but Mr Nissan obviously had a good reason for fitting it. If you look carefully, you may find a similar setup on the rear diff as well. It should simply vent to atmosphere.

One of the green relays down behind the ECU controls power to the injectors. Make sure that both relays (the other is for the coils) are switching on when you set the key to "ON". Trace the fuel line from the FPR back towards the the fuel tank. If you run into the fuel filter, then the fuel lines are on the wrong way round. But that shouldn't stop the injectors pulsing. While you had the plugs out, did you check that you had spark? I have on old ECU, but its from a GTS4. The Nissan P/N is 23710 04U60 (It has MEC-116 A 9810 just above the "Hitachi" on the label)

Are you sure the fuel lines are on the right way round?!

To the best of my knowledge, the engines were designed to run with Platinum plugs. And IIRC, the tip on a Platinum plug is not all that different (size-wise) to the tip on an Iridium plug.

Your local Nissan Dealer should be able to get you one. Otherwise, try: Dean @ Central Motor Wreckers in Ballarat Dayle @ Nispares in Melbourne

Now running Iridiums (5s) in my RB25DET at 1.1 gap. Engine starts better, and has not suffered a misfire, even running 10psi boost. Running with the "in-built igniter" coils, fired by Wolf 3D. If the system can't maintain the spark at the recommended gap, then it is likely a problem with the coils themselves, not the plugs or the boost or the fuel or...

You don't have to have the engine idling exactly 650 - I doubt you could ever make it do that. I know that reading the handset on my Wolf 3D, the revs can vary by as much as 50 rpm aroung the idle point. If the engine sounds like it's idling at somewhere near the right revs, then you can set the timing. As long as it's not racing or anything. Usually, changing the timing a bit can often change the idle revs anyway, so you'd end up chasing your tail - idling too fast, change timing, idling too slow, change timing...

The problem may be related to the ignition barrel wearing out. The key isn't able to set the contacts inside the switch properly. I doubt it, though. I think you are actually talking about when you put the key to the "start" position. (the "on" position is where the key "sits" while the engine is running). And you get absolutely nothing, not even "click...click...click..."? More likely a problem with getting power to the starter solenoid switch. If you are not confident to do it yourself, then get an auto-elec to insert a relay between the starter wire and the starter solenoid (he should understand what that means). This is what I had to do with mine.

I've never set timing with A/C on. I think the only time you load an engine is in an auto (stuff it in 'D'). So in short, the answer to your question is 15 BTDC @ 650 rpm Also, no need to cut the plug lead. Mabe just need to slip the "cap" end of the lead back a bit to expose the terminal better.

Check that the TPS is shutting off correctly.

Mine isn't

It would definitely have been overfuelling with the broken water temp wire - the ECU would think the engine was cold and it delivers much more fuel to a cold engine. I suspect the excess fuel has destroyed the plugs. I think new plugs should solve all your problems (but I've been known to be wrong before!).

This is the safest method. But you don't necessarily need to remove the coil pack's boot to get it to work, in fact leaving the boot in place helps keep the plug lead in contact with the terminal.Base timing at idle is 15 BTDC.

Have you tried new plugs? Sometimes, plugs are useless after being doused in fuel. Have you taken it for a good high speed run on the highway to clean out the engine?

Roll centre calculation depends on the type / design / geometry of the suspension, eg macpherson struts are calculated totally differently to semi-trailing arms. I think it's covered in a book by Fred Puhl (maybe Puhn). Worth owning. Check out Pitstop Bookshop in Perth (pitstop.net.au)

AFAIK, spacers are illegal in all states.

Where are you picking up the boost signal? If it's off the back of the compressor, then that could explain the "spiking". I used to run mine off the back of the inlet plenum.

Even with a turbo CUBIC INCHES COUNT. You won't get any serious power out of the REDTOP RB20DET. A RB25DET / VL Turbo gearbox will bolt up to the back of a RB26DETT.

It will be one of the 2 green relays hiding down behind the ECU.