blind_elk

FYI, for your R33 (RB25DET, 8/93 -> 1998), the recommended NGK plug is PFR5G-11 (platinum), and BKR5EIX-11 in the Iridiums.

Depends which engine you're fitting them to.As sky30 showed, the non-resistor plugs don't have the "R" in the code. And the (pre-)gap(ped) size is tacked on the end eg BCPR6ES-11 = 1.1 mm gap, BCPR6ES-8 = 0.8mm gap

NGK specify a particular plug for the turbo versions ie RB20DET, RB25DET, (which may be different to the plugs recommended for N/A versions). So if you get the recommended plug, then they should last the 60k - 100k kms. Your local spare parts supplier should have a copy of the NGK catalogue - have a browse through that.

Yes, platinums are supposed to be good for 100k kms. My experience has converted me to the Iridiums. I believe they are cheaper than the platinums (mine cost me $18 each). I run standard (1.1mm) gap, and 10 psi boost, producing 180Awkw from a RB25DET. Now the car starts easier, and doesn't miss at all.

How about - if it didn't matter, why would the manufacturers bother to specify the rotor as a "left" or a "right" ? I think it should be set up that the slot should move towards the outer edge of the rotor when rotated in the correct direction. So in your thumbnail, the LH of the two is a LH rotor, and the RH of the two is a RH rotor (rotate it opposite to how you have marked it).

If everything is standard, I wouldn't expect there be that much neg camber at the front, even on lowered suspension. I'd be checking the bushes in the front upper control arms first.

I stuck a set of Iridiums in my RB25DET, left the gap standard (1.1mm). I'm more than impressed - car starts easier, and has not had a misfire, running 10psi and producing 180 Awkw. If you want to keep pulling the engine apart every 6 months to change plugs, then fit coppers, otherwise fit Platinums or Iridiums.

More to the point, What the hell are you on?

You can probably only get them (new) from a Nissan dealer. A wrecker might sell you one cut from the end of a loom, but it's unlikely (maybe a fire-damaged loom, but they would be similar to rocking-horse poo)

Have you got an alarm with an immobiliser fitted? Depending on how the immobiliser is wired can affect if / how the car will start. Then again, a bit more info on how it won't start eg starter doesn't work, engine spins but won't fire, etc would be a really useful guide for a well-considered diagnosis of the problem.

Yes. On 32s, it operates the A/C fan (the small one out front) in an over-temperature situation when using AirCon. It switches a relay in the block immediately rearward of the battery - you can hook in there to switch another relay to operate the fan. Frankly, I'm not in favour of thermo fans on Skylines. I tried it, and I was continually having the engine overheating, even in the lightest of workouts. For the couple of kW gain, I don't believe it's worth the risk to the engine.

So, a new master cylinder was fitted to the booster? Or a new booster fitted to the master? I had a similar experience years ago, fitting a 260Z master into a 240Z. Turned out a small spacer fell off inside the booster. Everything felt fine bleeding, but went out the door when the engine was started and you got some vacuum assist on the system.

I switched to Iridiums and I'm more than happy with them. I'm running 10psi and 180 Awkw. I left the gap standard (1.1mm). I'm more than happy with them - the car starts much easier, and they haven't missed a beat, including a session at Wakefield Park over Easter.

My understanding is that it helps the exhaust gas coming out of the wastegate. If you look at a standard dump pipe, the area where the ex gasses come out when the wastgate opens is very limited, and causes considerable back-pressure and turbulence. The split dump is designed to direct this gas away "nicely" to join the main gas stream further down the pipe. The alternative (what I have one on mine) is to enlarge the dump at the turbo so the wastegate gas still has a clear path, but can still immediately join in the main gas stream.

Why do you want one? They are really only useful in rally cars and motorkhana cars; absolutely no use - or benefit- in a road, or even a race, car. AFAIK, they aren't manufactured for a specific car - they are pretty generic. If it is your only handbrake, if not illegal, it's at best pretty dangerous. The fluid can cool and contract, releasing pressure on the brake. IIRC, a guy "lost" his car, and found it several hundred metres down the road, across the other side of 4 lanes of traffic! It didn't hit anything - how lucky can you be?

which you would have discovered had you done a {search}.This question must come up at least every other week.

My point is simply that my Nissan engine (with aftermarket ECU, admitedly) can make just as much power in 2.5 litres with forced induction as GM makes in an engine more than twice the capacity, and with additional cylinders. If you need to compare apples with apples, then CAMS applies a "fudge factor" to turbo engines of 1.7. So, I have the equivalent of a 4.25 litre N/A engine (RB25DET * 1.7) that makes nearly as much power as a GM engine having 33% more capacity and 2 additional cylinders. Also, if you want to compare apples with apples, then compare the CV6 supercharged 3.8 litre V6 in the Monaro - it is rated at, from memory, 170 kW. A Nissan RB20DET is rated 160 kW. So, both forced induction, yet GM need nearly twice the capacity to produce only slightly more power than a RB20DET.

At the end of the lease, you still owe them money (the residual) (if you are keeping the car). Probably better off getting a bank loan over the same period, then at least you own it at the end of the finance period.Just my opinion.

From personal experience, unless you are planning to get rid of the car at the end of the lease, DON'T LEASE. Just go and get a bank loan.

It's a $70k car, what did you expect them to use? I know he's in Melbourne, but he might know someone in Sydney - call Craig at Trackside Tyres 03 9761 5557

Which particular screw - there are 4 or 5 of them.

I think you can only get them from Nissan.

Consider: they need TWICE the engine capacity you have, and TWO extra cylinders, yet they still only have a bee's dick more power. Go figure! I have to laugh every time I see one of those with 185i (at the flywheel) on the bum. I just have to wonder - where did the rest of them go? I've got that many at FOUR WHEELS!

On the RB20 / 25, it's located down on the rear of the block, LH side, on a flange that the gearbox bolts up to. Look straight down rearward of the turbo (on a DET, of course), and you should see it (might need a torch for additional illumination).

Pay for a quality one, don't skimp. I use mine (I think its a W&B, that I bought nearly 20 years ago) to do wheel nuts (65 ft/lb) and spark plugs (NGK recommend approx 20 ft/lb cold). As well as head bolts etc when necessary, of course.