blind_elk

Pity you've already bought your cooler. There was a guy at the motorsport show in Melbourne (he's from Adelaide) who had a prototype that replaces the grille between the headlights.

The actuators for the doors "piggyback" the factory system, and are locked in place by a screw that can work loose. You need to remove the door trim and readjust the mechanism and re-lock it in place.

It's built into the tyre. You need a tyre with a "Z" speed rating. eg 235/45ZR-17

They probably go to a charcoal canister. And they probably are what is causing your boost leak (if they're not connected to anything)!

Not really sure why your mechanic said that! Sounds like he is suggesting that you can shut off the spark by crimping the coil lead (just like shutting off water by crimping a hose). HUH??Some things to try: Check cam timing (engines tend to run hotter if cam retarded). Check ignition timing - although mechanic should have done that. Check vac advance mechanism in dizzy - although mechanic should have done that. Overhaul the dizzy. Overhaul the carby. None of the water hoses have been bypassed or blocked off? Try some Nulon "Total Fuel System Cleaner" in the fuel tank.

Get hold of the technical brochure for the tyre brand / style you intend to use. It will include the rolling diametr of each size. Then you can compare your current tyres to your proposed new tyres.

The battery has nothing to do with the timing - disconnecting the battery will have no effect on the settings of the CAS. You need to hook up a timing light to check what the base timing is (at idle, it should be around 15 BTDC)

Take the injectors out and heve them tested / cleaned. Also, was the timing reset after the CAS was replaced? If you can hardly get it out of the garage, it sounds like the CAS is out to buggery (firing AFTER TDC, maybe).

What heat range spark plugs? Should be 6 (if NGK plugs - BCPR6ES-11). How good is the distributor? Helped a couple of guys recently with a misfire that turned out to be sloppiness in the dizzy shaft. Get the dizzy overhauled, I think that might be a contributor, especially after 150k+ ks.

According to the factory workshop manual, they are 8.5:1

Quite good. Takes a while to get used to Turn 1 - looks tight, then you get half way round and realise there's a 4-lane highway on the other side LOL. That then allows you to flat stick thru the kink and jump on the anchors at 80 metres.Took me quite a few laps to work the corner up on the hill - worked out I was turning in way too late. But still getting massive understeer thru Turn 9. Had a good dice with a little SR20DETd 1600 - had some serious mumbo in a straight line, but didn't have the kahunas to flat stick it thru the kink on the front straight.

Geoff, that looks more like the roof seal!

If yours is P/N 92600 0V001 (but I doubt it), then I have one here.

But 8.5 is not a lot of compression - The Gibson GT-Rs ran 9.2 and 1.8 bar (with aftermarket ECU of course). The other problem I have, of course, is the 270,000 ks on the clock. Do you reckon the Wolf can dial any detonation out? Maybe just need to suck it and see?

Idealseat in Moorabbin will have them.

Guys and Gals, Need a spot of advice. I have a R30 hatchback, with the L24E and 5sp trans. I also have a L20ET (with RB20DET turbo) that was driven by a Wolf 3D. I was going to drop the L20ET into the R30, and run it off the Wolf. But, as the saying goes, "cubic inches count", so I had the idea to simply transfer the manifolds from the L20 onto the L24. But I was told it would never work, because the L24 was never designed to be turboed - it would simply ping its brains out. But I reckon with a Wolf running it, any tendency to ping could be programmed out. And the other advantage is the higher C/R of the L24E (8.5 vs the L20's 7.5) So, should I use the L20ET as is, or turbo the L24E? TIA.

Hi there Bekky. Problem with dropping a RB series engine is the requirement for a new gearbox, then a new tailshaft, then a new... EFI is certainly the way to go - what about rebuilding a 280ZX L28 EFI engine. It will slot straight in. But still needs stuff, like a wiring loom, an EFI pump. But might be a nice sleeper.

It's basically a problem of voltage to the solenoid (not necessarily a battery problem, though). Install a relay between the battery and the solenoid. Use the existing wire onto the solenoid to switch the relay, so that the relay supplies direct battery power to the solenoid.

You can buy online at www.whiteline.com.au . Or any of their reps in Melbourne (I think Traction Tyres in Rowville can get them for you). Buy brand new! From memory, the kit is around $250.

SAU Nickname: blind_elk Car Make and Model: R32 GTS4 Circuit Name: Wakefield Park (1st time there - Nissan Datsun Nationals) Lap Time: 1:16.7 Modifications: RB25DET, Wolf 3D 4+ Engine: Stock Power: 180 Awkw Suspension: Bilstein shocks, Kings lowered springs, Whiteline (front) camber kit, GT-R HD rear bar Tyres: Bridgestone Potenza GIII, 235/45/17 Brakes: Bendix Ultimate, Motul DOT5.1, braided brake lines, DBA slotted front disks Body Weight: 1520 kg

Blackburn Nissan & Garry Rogers (Geln Waverley) are OK with imports. You'll need the VIN so they can get the right parts off FAST.

Whack a timing light on it and see what happens when you rev it.

This is one: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=68031

Good advice, Duncan

I'll be there. Look out for a black 32 - rego GTST-4