blind_elk

Does it run a "normal" distributor? If so, does the vacuum advance unit work?

How hot does it get? Are you running thermo fans? Have you still got the undertray thingy fitted?

That's basically it. The overhaul basically fixes it. What happened in that instance was that brake dust got in under the dust seal, and ended up setting like concrete, totally immobilising the piston. Can be done, but might require a bench vice to help hold the calipers while you remove the pistons (when I saw it done, the guy used 2 enormous screwdrivers to lever the pistons out, but just on the bench), and a can of BrakeKleeen or similar. Maybe some very fine (1200) paper to smooth out any little nicks in the pistons. If you are careful, you can re-use the O-rings and seals. Otherwise sus out the brake specialists for a kit.

For the 314,468th time, the one in the boot is for ATTESSA, which only exists on AWD Skylines. The HICAS light on a R32 generally comes on when the P/S fluid gets a bit low.

Then you might have to try and fit a non-VVT inlet camshaft. I'm not sure an adjustable cam wheel is so useful - on "standard" DE engines, the degree of adjustment is so small for the gains obtained that it's almost not worth the effort, IMHO. But it might be different on a RB30DE setup. And anyway, as I understand it, changing the cam timing simply shifts the power band, it doesn't necessarily improve it.

Jetspeed (www.jetspeed.com.au) can probably help you out.

I'm running a Recaro on Bride rails in my R32. The rails are basically made to fit the car. Then you make the rails fit the seat by drilling the right holes in the right spot. Otherwise go to Recaro - they should have rails for the IS200.

How did you put up with that god-awful noise for so long? Anyway, probably not a bad idea to overhaul the calipers. I saw a case of 4-spotters on a 260Z where only 1 or 2 of the 8 pistons actually moved!

Should be same place as the 32 - into the hose between the plenum and the fuel pressure reg at the front of the engine.

If you remove the head, while it's off, do all the welsh plugs.

Minor correction - they won Rally Tasmania, not the Tasmanian Rally Championship. There's a big difference. Good effort to keep Jim Richards at bay.

When I had a similar running in my RB20DET, turned out I had spat off a chunk of piston that, among other things, hit the end of the spark plug and closed the gap to nothing. Pull the plugs, and check they're OK.

I think the technical term for that portion is the "hat" of the rotor.

But your insurance might not be so keen on the idea.

Traction Tyres in Rowville (general suspension stuff) Quadrant Suspensions in Berwick (Bilsteins) TopPerformance in Vermont (Konis)

Just had a thought - how are you "jiggling" the wheel? If it's like you're steering the car, then the wheel is never going to come off. You need to jiggle back and forth along the axis of the steering column, ie pull up on one edge and push down on the other, then reverse that, all the while generally pulling the wheel towards you. Clear as mud? Good!

It went on, it has to come off!! Have you put the wheel back onto the boss? Grab the wheel at "quarter to three", now jiggle back and forth while pulling towards you. Otherwise, PM me where you are, I'll try and get around to help you.

Never met a steering wheel I couldn't remove by anything other than gentle side-to-side jiggling of the wheel. The R32s have reach, as well as height, adjustment of the steering column - are the R33s the same?

Mine is running over 270,000ks, and it starts better than the R32! The 5-door (the hatchback?) is fully imported, but has all the bells and whistles you might want - IRS, 4 wheel disks (vented front), electric windows, 4-speaker stereo - not bad for 1983/4 family hack. But most of the parts are the same as the Oz sedan.

Might want to have a talk with Bill over here at Australian Precision Engine Parts - 03 9887 1299 - for pistons and rings, maybe bearings.

AAC valve or TPS are the usual suspects when this happens.

The ATTESSA has 2 G-sensors located under the centre armrest box. The ATTESSA ECU also takes input from the ABS sensors (to sense rear-wheel spin), and from the TPS, amongst others.

A [search] might have revealed they are 5 stud, PCD = 114.3, and offset = 38

Rtfm

I certainly use it in competition to stabilise the car through corners. But I thought this thread was about driving around town - that's why I made the comment I did.Anyone who uses the "it gives me a poofteenth of a second reaction time advantage" excuse is STILL driving too close to the car in front, and isn't reading the traffic correctly.