blind_elk

Have you changed the brake fluid to some new stuff (you probably boiled the stuff you have)

I've seen a case where BOTH feet headed for the floor in an emergency, and the GO pedal managed to override the WHOA pedal - result = bent chain wire fence!My main gripe with left foot brakers is that they rest their foot on the pedal and manage to light up the brake lights - then you never know when they are actually slowing / stopping. The only time I left foot brake in an auto is parking the car, otherwise I drive as the good son of rajab intended - RIGHT foot is for braking. If you need to use the "left foot hovering over the brake pedal for faster braking reaction time" excuse, then you are obviously travelling TOO CLOSE to the car in front.

I don't necessarily know the answer, but I would sufggest you do a bit of investigation with plugs and coil packs. Try swapping the suspect plug to another cylinder - this will indicate if it is a fault in the original cylinder or with the plug itself. If the problem remains at #2 cylinder, then swap the coil pack with another cylinder. This way you will be able to narrow down which component is actually causing, or contributing the most, to the problem.

Can't argue with Morgs on this one. I have trouble activating the ABS, because I've learned to threshhold brake. This is Morgs point - a properly trained driver would not have done this.As for throwing away the fuse - if you don't want AWD, then don't get a GT-R! Now, back on topic - Nugget, did you replace all 4 tyres? Did you replace them with the same type / size at each corner?

The specs on the tyre (the tech brochure) will tell you what is the optimum and allowable rim widths for a given tyre.

Before you do anything else to the engine, get a leakdown test - that will tell you where the compression is being lost ie rings, valves, gasket

Speedo is mechanically driven off the gearbox. If you mean the tacho, then the ECU sends the signal to the tacho, presumably based on the number of impulses it gets from the CAS.

How about the steering rack?

By cancellling the cruise, the committtee officially withdraws its support, and hence insurance cover, for the event. Living in Geelong, it is easy for you to cruise the GOR anytime you like - do you hear us complaining that you have that advantage? Being a member of the club is not just about coming to meetings. There are other advantages, as has been mentioned previously - eg supplier discounts, discounted clothing, etc. And if the club decides to start producing a magazine, then you have access to the information that might be found therein. NDSOC - my other club - has members in Queensland. And it looks like we might be starting a Tassie chapter. Those people don't get to come to monthly meetings either, but they don't join for the monthly meetings, they join for the camaraderie you get by being a member of a club. If you don't want to spend $1 per week, then don't. But don't winge about it either.

They are a T3 on the RB20DET (GTSt) - GT-Rs are T28s.

Wash your mouth out!!!!!RB25DET should drop straight into a R33 RB25DE (well it did for my RB25DET into R32). If you buy a half-cut, you will get a loom and computer to match the engine. Simple. (hint - to replace the loom, remove the LH guard)

Just an enquiring question, because I was considering filling my 17" wheels with more rotor. According to the DBA cattle-dog, the rotors on a R32 GT-R are about 16mm larger diameter than the GTSts (296 vs 280), yet they run the same pads. Does this mean that the calipers have to be different (probably a different 'height' from mounting holes to centre of piston). Then the later GT-Rs (8/93 onwards, presumably running Brembos) are bigger again (324mm). Can these be fitted easily to a R32 GTS4?

I'm not an engineer, so, again, "grain of salt". Unless you are making mega kw with the engine, I believe the pistons will withstand well in excess of the standard output of a RB20. So I think forgies are an unnecessary expense at this time. Unfortunately, you can't test for leaks on an open bottle, same with a disassembled engine. Although engine builders may have some sort of gizzmo to do it - ask their advice. A bit of headwork won't go astray - clean up / smooth out the ports, maybe a bit of profiling and matching to the manifolds. As part of the work, make sure you specify re-seating the valves. I think it's unlikely to be a piston problem - I think any damage would more than likely be visible as the engine sits right now. It may be a problem with the bedding of the rings, given that it may be a recently rebuilt engine. If you pull the pistons out, take them to an experienced engine builder for an opinion.

It's not my money, so take this advice with a grain of salt. If you are having the head fully checked over, make sure all the valves are reseated - you may get back the compression you lost in #3. But since the engine is already half apart, drop the sump, and remove the pistons and check the rings. I am guessing that you are going to have to put it all back together again to do the leakdown, then possibly pull it all apart again to fix the problem revealed by the leakdown.

If it's anything like the Wolf, then what is displayed is an offset from 0. You probably need to adjust the offset in the PFC until the 15 that the PFC is programmed to run agrees with the 15 on the crank pulley.. With mine, the handset showed 15, but when I put a timing light on it, it was about 45!!!!! And it advanced from there!!!! No wonder it pinged when I put the boot into it.

Repco or any similar store should carry a replacement item. They're just a fan belt, nothing special about them. Take the old ones with you so that the store can check the new ones for correct length.

Factory spec is 12 kg/cm2 - I think that equates to around 160psi. So your engine, in general, appears to be in pretty poor shape. It should have had a leakdown test to locate the actual source of problem, particularly in #3, before you pulled it down. The water leak was likely a hose, as the Japs rarely treat the cooling system with coolant, and the hoses rot from the inside. While you are doing the job, get a complete set of hoses - they will set you back around $400, but think of the labour costs to replace them otherwise. You can replace the water hoses while the head is off. And while you're about it, do all the welsh plugs. The rings, you will need to drop the sump - worst case, this requires the engine to be lifted off the mounts.

CO2 would only be used as a coolant for the intake charge, but only by cooling the components eg IC. Certainly if it was injected into the A/F mixture, the engine would run super rich because of the reduced amount of O2. Some people have designed systems to carry dry ice (which is solid CO2) for cooling ICs, etc. But you would need to be wary because you might cool the IC so well that it ices up inside, partially blocking the IC.

And entry is discounted (concession prices) if you hold a CAMS competition licence.http://www.cams.com.au/content.asp?PageID=...le&ObjectID=500

PM me your email, and I'll send you some.

I've had my car RWCd several times, and it's fitted with an aftermarket gear knob that doesn't have the pattern etched on it. I've never had comment from the RWC guys that it's a problem. Frankly, anyone who needs the gear pattern etched onto the gear knob to know where the gears are doesn't deserve to be driving, period, let alone driving a manual.

So are you now saying you support the idea and practice of heel-toeing? Because that is not the interpretation I got from the piece I quoted in my previous post.

The coil packs (which initiate the spark) have no relationship to VVT (which controls when air/fuel or exhaust gasses enter/leave the combustion chamber). The need to get S2 packs is probably because the S2 packs have an in-built igniter, whereas the S1 packs require a separate igniter module. VVT changes the relationship of the camshaft to the cam pulley, so the same belt should operate the cam pulleys, irrespective of the presence or not of VVT. As well as the "power bulge" in the cam cover, VVT can also be identified by a small solenoid mounted at the front of the head, immediately forward of the inlet manifold, near the 2 temp sensors.

AND to match the rotation of the gearsets so the teeth mesh cleanly on engagement - this is what the synchros are supposed to do, but don't do it so well when they wear out. The benefit of heel-toe is to match the engine speed up to the road speed of the wheels. By matching these, the stress on the whole drive train is minimised, and therefore wear-and-tear on the drive train is reduced, resulting in longer life of the components.Anyone who claims they will be long gone by not heel-toeing is deluding themselves, and obviously not driving correctly - heel-toe is all done under braking, and therefore is done BEFORE the corner while travelling in a straight line, so there can be no time lost "changing gears in the middle of a corner". Heel-toe is really not that much slower than a non-heel-toe gear change (fractions of a second), because the general movement of the gearshift and engagement of the gears is not interupted, as it would be with a double-declutch. And because it is done under braking, it doesn't matter that it takes a bit longer. With heel-toe, you can actually have the lower gear engaged before giving the blip on the throttle.

SAU Nickname: blind_elk Car Make and Model: R32 GTS4 Circuit Name: Simmonds Plains Lap time: 1:09.9 Modifications Engine: RB25DET Power: 178 awkw Suspension: Bilsteins, Kings springs, GTR HD rear bar Tyres: Bridgestone G III Brakes: slotted rotors (front), Bendix Ultimates (f), EBC Red ® Body weight: 1520 kg