blind_elk

The coil packs (which initiate the spark) have no relationship to VVT (which controls when air/fuel or exhaust gasses enter/leave the combustion chamber). The need to get S2 packs is probably because the S2 packs have an in-built igniter, whereas the S1 packs require a separate igniter module. VVT changes the relationship of the camshaft to the cam pulley, so the same belt should operate the cam pulleys, irrespective of the presence or not of VVT. As well as the "power bulge" in the cam cover, VVT can also be identified by a small solenoid mounted at the front of the head, immediately forward of the inlet manifold, near the 2 temp sensors.

AND to match the rotation of the gearsets so the teeth mesh cleanly on engagement - this is what the synchros are supposed to do, but don't do it so well when they wear out. The benefit of heel-toe is to match the engine speed up to the road speed of the wheels. By matching these, the stress on the whole drive train is minimised, and therefore wear-and-tear on the drive train is reduced, resulting in longer life of the components.Anyone who claims they will be long gone by not heel-toeing is deluding themselves, and obviously not driving correctly - heel-toe is all done under braking, and therefore is done BEFORE the corner while travelling in a straight line, so there can be no time lost "changing gears in the middle of a corner". Heel-toe is really not that much slower than a non-heel-toe gear change (fractions of a second), because the general movement of the gearshift and engagement of the gears is not interupted, as it would be with a double-declutch. And because it is done under braking, it doesn't matter that it takes a bit longer. With heel-toe, you can actually have the lower gear engaged before giving the blip on the throttle.

SAU Nickname: blind_elk Car Make and Model: R32 GTS4 Circuit Name: Simmonds Plains Lap time: 1:09.9 Modifications Engine: RB25DET Power: 178 awkw Suspension: Bilsteins, Kings springs, GTR HD rear bar Tyres: Bridgestone G III Brakes: slotted rotors (front), Bendix Ultimates (f), EBC Red ® Body weight: 1520 kg

What did you spend the $$$ on? If it was for pizza for dinner, then the $$$ and the lack of traction would be totally unrelated.What have you got? What have you done to it? With this information, we might be able to give a reasonable solution to your problem. But I would have to suggest that a new set of tyres is in order, given that the tyres are the point of contact with the road, where the rotational motion of the engine is transferred into forward motion of the car.

Might have filled the spark plug wells with water. Otherwise, in general, water and EFI connections are incompatible - pull all the connectors apart and spray with WD40 or similar.

Could be the sender about to pass on to greener pastures. Try a new one - may not be cheap, but cheaper than a new engine.

Did you check the oil level in the engine? When was the last time you changed the oil?

So, it's an Oz-delivered GT-R?You will need to solve it, because loading up the RR suspension may have adverse consequences on the weight distribution across the 4 corners of the car. In that case, it will handle like the proverbial bucket of s**t.

For brakes, I'm working on a a conversion using the early (4-stud) Z31 rotors and hubs. These fit straight onto the R30 stub axles (have to remove the backing plate). Just need to figure out how to adapt the calipers (they are 100mm centres on the mounting holes, R30 is 90mm). Then you can run 4-spotters if you wish.

I had some little pile of turd simply lock himself away inside the car, away from the siren of the alarm, and steal the radio. So now I have a Jaycar Screecher installed INSIDE the car - 110dB @ 2kHz should be enough to remind them that they are not welcome. If you have a detachable panel for the radio, TAKE IT WITH YOU. Don't simply hide it somewhere in the car.

You could go the old-school L20ET (guess what's sitting out in my garage?). My understanding is that the RB20DET will drop in if you fit the X-member from a R31 Skyline. I've yet to discover how the gearbox will go (it will need to be a RB-series box, the L-series won't bolt up), but I'm sure you would certainly require a custom tailshaft.

Possible solution to your problem - I might be prepared to swap my GTS4 rear diff for a Stagea rear diff (49:12 - or equivalent - ratio). (you do have a matching front diff for yourself, don't you?)

If you are careful, you can re-use the existing rubbers.The problem, it seems, is that dust CAN get past the dust seal, and forms a 'concrete' barrier to prevent the piston coming out, or it might hold the piston in contact with the rotor. As I said, the example I saw was only 1 of 8 pistons actually popped out when the brake pedal was depressed after the pads had been removed (the owner is now in seventh heaven now he has stopping power!).

The tie-rods are the outer parts of the steering system, and should be able to be removed without removing the rack from the car. If you are trying to remove the rod (it doesn't seem to have a name, according to the [R32 GTR] manual - maybe its the "inner socket"), it seems it simply screws in and out.

"D" on RHS, "A" on LHS

1. Complete overhaul of the calipers (saw a case today of a set of 4-spotters where only 1 of the 8 pots was actually moving). 2. Braided brake lines 3. Bendix Ultimates I reckon are the best bang-for-your-buck brake pad around. 4. Fresh brake fluid (DOT5)

The ignitor module can be a problem, in that it tends to fail when it gets hot. That's why the engine often fails to restart immediately.

Pump the front tyres up, 2psi over the rears, so 36 front / 34 rear. Fit a HD bar on the back.

Might have one for you next week, after I get my new GT-R copy back from the paint shop.

www.dba.com.au - there's a catalogue of rotors there, with all the dimensions given

AFAIK, that's :bs!: There is no high beam filament in the outer globes. And no other car I know of has low and high filaments operative at the same time. It's either one or the other. What is concerning to numskull RWC person is that the outers (low beam) go off when the lights are switched to main (high) beam.I've had my 32 RWCd numerous times, and the way the lights work has never come into question. And I would expect if it was a problem, the car would never have passed compliance. Tell the knucklehead he's wrong, or find another RWCer.

You do realise the GT-R is still a RWD, that intelligently supplies some drive through the front wheels? Unlike the WRX which is constant AWD (primarily a FWD with some of the drive sent to the rear). If you don't want AWD, then don't get a GT-R.

Let's see, a fair few Zs (1 is a 260 2+2 with 383 Chev @ 500hp), a Rex Wagon, my RB25DET'd R32 GTS4, 200 SXs, 1600s, Silvias, 180 SXs, and a Micra!Seems the local Z club died, so can't help you on that front. Maybe check with CAMS.

Then take it to the state ombudsman and lodge a formal complaint.

I think you have a problem there. I don't drive mine for a week, but it still fires up first go each weekend.