blind_elk

What did you spend the $$$ on? If it was for pizza for dinner, then the $$$ and the lack of traction would be totally unrelated.What have you got? What have you done to it? With this information, we might be able to give a reasonable solution to your problem. But I would have to suggest that a new set of tyres is in order, given that the tyres are the point of contact with the road, where the rotational motion of the engine is transferred into forward motion of the car.

Might have filled the spark plug wells with water. Otherwise, in general, water and EFI connections are incompatible - pull all the connectors apart and spray with WD40 or similar.

Could be the sender about to pass on to greener pastures. Try a new one - may not be cheap, but cheaper than a new engine.

Did you check the oil level in the engine? When was the last time you changed the oil?

So, it's an Oz-delivered GT-R?You will need to solve it, because loading up the RR suspension may have adverse consequences on the weight distribution across the 4 corners of the car. In that case, it will handle like the proverbial bucket of s**t.

For brakes, I'm working on a a conversion using the early (4-stud) Z31 rotors and hubs. These fit straight onto the R30 stub axles (have to remove the backing plate). Just need to figure out how to adapt the calipers (they are 100mm centres on the mounting holes, R30 is 90mm). Then you can run 4-spotters if you wish.

I had some little pile of turd simply lock himself away inside the car, away from the siren of the alarm, and steal the radio. So now I have a Jaycar Screecher installed INSIDE the car - 110dB @ 2kHz should be enough to remind them that they are not welcome. If you have a detachable panel for the radio, TAKE IT WITH YOU. Don't simply hide it somewhere in the car.

You could go the old-school L20ET (guess what's sitting out in my garage?). My understanding is that the RB20DET will drop in if you fit the X-member from a R31 Skyline. I've yet to discover how the gearbox will go (it will need to be a RB-series box, the L-series won't bolt up), but I'm sure you would certainly require a custom tailshaft.

Possible solution to your problem - I might be prepared to swap my GTS4 rear diff for a Stagea rear diff (49:12 - or equivalent - ratio). (you do have a matching front diff for yourself, don't you?)

If you are careful, you can re-use the existing rubbers.The problem, it seems, is that dust CAN get past the dust seal, and forms a 'concrete' barrier to prevent the piston coming out, or it might hold the piston in contact with the rotor. As I said, the example I saw was only 1 of 8 pistons actually popped out when the brake pedal was depressed after the pads had been removed (the owner is now in seventh heaven now he has stopping power!).

The tie-rods are the outer parts of the steering system, and should be able to be removed without removing the rack from the car. If you are trying to remove the rod (it doesn't seem to have a name, according to the [R32 GTR] manual - maybe its the "inner socket"), it seems it simply screws in and out.

"D" on RHS, "A" on LHS

1. Complete overhaul of the calipers (saw a case today of a set of 4-spotters where only 1 of the 8 pots was actually moving). 2. Braided brake lines 3. Bendix Ultimates I reckon are the best bang-for-your-buck brake pad around. 4. Fresh brake fluid (DOT5)

The ignitor module can be a problem, in that it tends to fail when it gets hot. That's why the engine often fails to restart immediately.

Pump the front tyres up, 2psi over the rears, so 36 front / 34 rear. Fit a HD bar on the back.

Might have one for you next week, after I get my new GT-R copy back from the paint shop.

www.dba.com.au - there's a catalogue of rotors there, with all the dimensions given

AFAIK, that's :bs!: There is no high beam filament in the outer globes. And no other car I know of has low and high filaments operative at the same time. It's either one or the other. What is concerning to numskull RWC person is that the outers (low beam) go off when the lights are switched to main (high) beam.I've had my 32 RWCd numerous times, and the way the lights work has never come into question. And I would expect if it was a problem, the car would never have passed compliance. Tell the knucklehead he's wrong, or find another RWCer.

You do realise the GT-R is still a RWD, that intelligently supplies some drive through the front wheels? Unlike the WRX which is constant AWD (primarily a FWD with some of the drive sent to the rear). If you don't want AWD, then don't get a GT-R.

Let's see, a fair few Zs (1 is a 260 2+2 with 383 Chev @ 500hp), a Rex Wagon, my RB25DET'd R32 GTS4, 200 SXs, 1600s, Silvias, 180 SXs, and a Micra!Seems the local Z club died, so can't help you on that front. Maybe check with CAMS.

Then take it to the state ombudsman and lodge a formal complaint.

I think you have a problem there. I don't drive mine for a week, but it still fires up first go each weekend.

Save your 1s and 0s, I'll fill you in.We have about 30 cars and 50 people coming of to terrorise the natives there over the first weekend in Feb. On Sunday (Feb 6) we have arranged a Show'n'Shine on the lawns of Parliamernt House, just from 9am to around noon - you're all welcome to come along and say hello. On the Wednesday (Feb 9), we will be up at Simmons Plains for a day of fun. The rest of the time, we will be in driver's heaven cruising some of the roads used in Targa Tassie - "99 Bends", "Elephant's Pass", "The Sideling". On the subject of a local club, there is a guy down there who is the "organiser" for the local Z Car Club - I'll have to go ask someone for his details, and I'll get back to you. Anyway, see you in a couple of weeks. I'm really getting into Big Kev mode, particularly after doing this tour last year as well.

It's not the filler plug - that's BEHIND the axles. The shot is from in front of the axles. I'd suggest it's the pinion seal on the front of the diff, although I'd expect it to have sprayed oil all over the underside of the car.

If it's still connected to the hub, then a sharp "yank" on the hub might do it. Otherwise you need to "drift" the shaft out.