blind_elk

The RB25DET I got was from a Stagea, and the P/S hoses had different connections (angles) onto the pump.Using the R32 one means you don't have to disconnect and bleed the P/S system. Separate the P/S pump, on its mounting bracket, from the block before removing the engine. But the 25's P/S pump would have been nice, because it's much smaller, and easier to adjust the belt tension. R31, depends if you get the engine with a half cut or not (mine was simply an engine on its own). I found out after I'd wired in a Wolf 3D that I could have left the loom in place and plugged in a GT-R version of the Wolf (bloody 20-20 hindsight!)

Gunmetal Grey R32 GT-R - Are on these forums?

The GTS4 is around 57/43, with the RB25DET sitting up front. Don't imagine it is THAT much heavier than the 20.

Apart from VVT, I believe everything is the same. All the sensors connect to the same pinout on the ECU.

There is only a finite amount of weight to distribute. Therefore adjusting one corner will change one or more of the others by a calculable amount. Go and get Fred's book, it has an example calculation in there. And it will give you the lowdown on what and why. You've driven the car as it is until now; a few weeks more while you get a handle on the process won't matter a great deal. But, it's really quite simple. And if you are in doubt about which corner to adjust, then simply grab hold of the wheel arch and lift the corner, or load up a corner and see what happens. When we did ours the other week, it wouldn't have taken more than perhaps half an hour to get a reasonably even weight distribution. You're unlikely to get a perfect 50/50 F/R weight distribution, but you should get something close to 50/50 L/R distribution, preferably with driver in the car. It may reach a point, however, where no amount of adjusting suspension will solve it; you get to a point where the answer is to move weight (like battery to boot, etc).

Been there, done that. The steering pump may be different, but the R32's will bolt onto the side of the RB25, but then requires a totally different belt. The A/C compressor will also bolt straight up, using the same belt. Clutch / flywheel is the same. But basically, the RB25 drops straight in.

Man, you only got the thing RWCd like 3 months ago, how can they possibly defect it now. The IC can't be a defect - the damn car comes with one. The pods can only be a (potential) noise-level defect - there are no controls in the (replaced) airbox that affect emissions. I don't have a padded steering wheel either, but the last RWC guy accepted it on the understanding that I would simply fit a compliant one, get the RWC, then put the original back. Add to this that he was the first ever to comment on the wheel, anyways.

If you're intersted, Fred Puhn's book is on special at Pitstop Bookshop - www.pitstop.net.au, item# 1734 - for $34.95 (+p&h)

Are you trying to have a lend of us? (two.06l, you certainly are!) The plug (without the wires) is the Throttle Position Switch, which tells the ECU that the throttle is closed or WO. The other is the Throttle Position Sensor, which tells the ECU exactly how much throttle is being applied. The engine should be idling quite high, because the ECU can't sense the 'throttle close' state.

Check for stupid things like the light in the boot not turning off. Check the regulator in the alternator. If it is over-charging the battery, the battery will die. Check with a multimeter that the battery voltage doesn't exceed about 14V when the engine is running at some revs, ie not at idle, say 2500 rpm. Although even then, I wouldn't expect a brand spanking battery to be killed off that quickly. So could also be a crook battery.

Who on earth fitted a 235 on a 10" rim (I'm running that size on a 7.5" rim!)? So, you've got 50mm extra width on me, which theoretically suggests a 285. Do the maths and judge what profile, say for a 265, gives a sidewall height similar to the 235/45 tyre.

I know Meridien Motorsport in Melbourne will hire out a set of scales - around $150 per day. Or they will do the setup for you for around $300 I believe. You could try contacting them for a Brisbane-based equivalent, or simply hunt around the Yellow Pages until you find one. As well as the CG, the ride height will also affect the roll centres (the point in space around which the suspension rotates), which in turn affects the "roll axis" (the line down the middle of the car, joining the 2 roll centres, about which the car "rolls"). It's a very complex interaction between all the components and the geometry. I can't recommend Fred Puhn's book enough for a thorough explanation of what's going on.

It's not necessarily the height that makes the difference. It's the weight - how it's distributed, and how it transfers. There will be some places around that can corner weight your car. I had this done the other week, and found that my right rear and left front were carrying more weight than the other 2 corners. I put it down to a pre-load on the rear sway bar, so I got hold of some adjustable link pins. Now all I have to do is get the car re-weighed. Basically, the car is set up on 4 bathroom scales (bit more sophisticated, but you get the idea). The surface needs to be perfectly level for the measurements to be accurate. The little computer can tell you what each corner weighs, and the weight distribution (%FR, %LR, %diag). A good technician should be able to tell you how best to redistribute the weight, either by adjusting the pre-load on the coil platforms, or by moving things around (like battery to boot, etc). Get yourself a good book on suspension, like Fred Puhn's "How to make your car handle" for an official engineering explanation.

Except in cars like the 240 / 260Z, where the castor rods go backwards, so you need to lengthen it to dial in more castor.For Greg, just reading up on KPI in Alan Staniforth's "Competition Car Suspension". The KPI is measured in relation to the centre vertical plane of the car, ie angling from middle to outside (as distinct from rear to front). You could consider the inclination of a strut to be equivalent (from top mount outwards towards the wheel), in that a line drawn down the axis of the strut should strike the ground at the centre point of the tyre.

Jack up that corner of the car, and shake the wheel for all you're worth. It really shouldn't move. If it does, then you have a problem, and your judgement as to the condition of the bearing or suspension bush has to be thrown out the window. The wheel bearing should be done up pretty tight - but not so tight that you stop the wheel rotating. My experience is that you can tighten it to where you think it should be, check for wheel "rotatability", then find it will need more tightening anyway as the bearing settles into position. Then back it off about 1/4 turn or so.

Shot bearing? Broken stub axle housing? Broken suspension bush?

Maybe just full of brake dust?

Hume is the shortest, most direct route. Try the NRMA website for "strip maps".

What a load of crock!!. You had also better get rid of the piece of hose that feeds the electronic sender for the factory gauge, then!!!!!!

Speed Technology in Mitcham. Talk to Steve - 9873 5400

I've recently put one of those engines into a R32 GTS4. I'm running Wolf 3D, and I get a really bad surging at low throttle running (like creeping in traffic). We've figured the problem is a wear spot in the TPS, because when you "calibrate" the Wolf for the TPS, it starts at 0, goes to around 10, drops back to 0 then climbs to 100. Makes it virtually impossible to tune for "injection overrun" Could be a similar thing happening in yours. Disconnect the TPS and measure the ohms across pins 1 & 2 (?) as you run (slowly) from closed to open throttle, and see what sort of readings you get.

Talk to Andrew on 0418 144 475 if you are interested in getting your rotors slotted.

Yes, they can be slotted (I'm tracking down the name of a guy who can do them for you). What I have found is that slotted rotors are virtually "self-cleaning", ie if you glaze up the pads and rotors, the slots clean the pads, and the clean pads clean the disk.Meantime, I'd be fitting Ultimates, rather than Advances. My reading of the Bendix info is that they are for a Joe Average driver in a family sedan; they are not a performance pad (someone correct me?).

Failing that, I'm not aware of castor bushes ever squeaking (camber bushes can). The polyurethane are worth the added stiffness you get, which reduces dynamic castor changes through corners.

Well, Issue 20 has a picture with caption: "The standard gauges in the middle of the dash were a bit limited, so we fitted this trio of cool Japanese Omori gauges..." I will bring it tomorrow night. Is that what you are after. Otherwise I can tell you which issue it's NOT in: 21, 22, 23, 24, 33, 34, 35. And I know I have them all, but I just need to track down the missing ones.