blind_elk

She'll need to be able to drive him around in it after he does his licence?

That's how mine work, and never been a problem for RWC.

They put them in Stageas (RB26DETT+auto), so you could probably get a Stagea ECU to run the whole shebang.

Yes, should allow fore/aft "reach" on the steering column. Might just be a little stiff.

The valve probably needs a clean. They get gummed up with carbon. It's simple enough to remove, disassemble and clean.

Walked in, said I wanted a set for a RB25DET, walked out with a set for a RB25DET. Difficult to tell how it goes with the lighter flywheel. I had never had the engine running with a standard flywheel (it was an upgrade, and the engine was from an outo anyway). But it doesn't seem to have any problem when the engine is running, or anything.

Check out the individual websites for the petrol companies. But don't always believe them (the BP site said a couple of places in Tas had Ultimate!). My experience has been that the major inter-city highways (Melb - Syd, Melb - Adelaide) have Shell / BP hi-octane fuel. Mobil only seems to have Synergy on the Hume.

I fitted a lightened flywheel, HD pressure plate and ceramic disc to the RB25DET before I planted in my GTS4. Got the setup from Adelaide Brake & Clutch, in Thebarton (?). Was a bit over $1G. And the whole lot came in "10rwkw pink" anodising LOL.

Toe: Stand with your feet parallel to each other - that's 0 toe. Now move your heels further apart - that's toe in. Now move your heels back so your feet are parallel, then move your heels closer together - that's toe out. If you consider your car's wheels doing a similar thing, you should start to understand. For a street car, toe in is more desirable, and a few mm is usually pretty good. Camber is the relationship of the top of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel. When the top is closer to the centreline of the car than the bottom, that's negative camber. When the bottom is closer, that's positive camber. Negative is better, and for a street car, about -1 degrees is usually quite sufficient. My experience has been that with negative camber, you should increase the toe in - it apparently lays the tread back down onto the road. With negative camber and toe out, you should be scrubbing the be-geezus out of the inside tread blocks. (All the above is related to the front wheel alignment, for a street car.)

They don't have an O2 sensor because they came out before ULP was being used. They ran on leaded petrol, and the lead in the petrol would kill the O2 sensor.

I got Bilsteins from Quadrant in Vic for around $1G, then probably $400 for a set of 4 kings springs (can't remember exactly). Bilsteins give a VERY firm ride - you might want the Quadrant guys to soften them up a bit for you.

The RB25 / 26 are 86mm bore, the RB20 is only 78mm bore. If you try and fit a RB20 head on a RB25 / 26 block, you will risk having the piston smash into the head. The other thing is that the RB20 head will have relatively small combustion chambers, which will cause a big rise in compression ratio, which is dangerous for running high boost levels. The converse (RB25 / 26 head on RB20 block) gives too much protrusion of the block deck into the combustion chamber, and a big drop in C/R, making it a bigger dog off-boost.

Actually just found me in the other posting - not sure how I got to be a member though. Anyway, I'm on that list, but don't have access to "members only"

Have you received my application - I sent it in the mail around Dec 5.

Happy New Year. Stay Safe.

Yes, it's a messy job. It can be done in the driveway, with the front end supported on axle stands. If you're reasonably quick, you won't empty the master cylinder while changing the lines. Main thing to watch out for is cross-threading the fittings when re-assembling. I would suggest starting at the caliper end. Clamp off the rubber line with vice-grips to stop the fluid going everywhere. You may actually need vice-grips to "crack" the fittings.

Powerplay Automotive (formerly Datrally) in Cheltenham used to be into Motec, not sure now though.

Straight fit.

Well, I have a 5sp manual, and get around 400+ to a tank. The MR30 is surprisingly thirsty for an EFI engine. Perhaps make sure the thermostat is working properly, and the temp sensors are working properly.

These morons obviously have a death wish. Let's grant them their wish and shoot them!

Its a 27mm bolt, undoes anti-clockwise. Guessing the engine is out of the car, so you have to lock out the flywheel (shove a bolt or big phillips screwdriver in one of the gearbox bolt holes, then use a flat screwdriver into the teeth of the flywheel). You'll probably need a breaker bar to undo the crank pulley bolt.

Didn't happen to get the knucklehead's plates did you? So we will know to pull off the side of the road when we see him coming towards us. Maybe he was trying out for a Darwin Award.

The fact it misses when warm suggests a problem with the igniter pack - they are known for breaking down under heat. The water probably didn't help, either, but I'd expect that the warmth of the engine would eventually dry it out.

Have you checked the thermostat is operating properly? Have you run a diagnostic on the A/C system? You can check for water movement by running the engine at idle (at operating temp) without the radiator cap, and then revving the engine - you should see water moving across the filler neck of the radiator.

IIRC, the insurance is "Third Party (Property), Fire and Theft", so you should be covered for a stolen car, although not sure about vandalised.