blind_elk

I was looking at running a Wolf 3D on it. The warning I received, in light of running the Wolf, was that the combustion chambers were totally inappropriate to running with a turbocharger. I have an L20ET sitting in the garage, but I can't get rid of it. Without the turbo and inlet manifolds, I would have even less chance of disposing of it (except on the end of a long piece of rope, the other end of which was attached to Skandia, or Nicorette). A L24E is worth basically nothing, so I am prepared to donate it to Skandia. I will be fitting the complete L20ET into the R30 hatch, and hooking up the Wolf.

Thanks, Jax. Do you know what colour those 2 wires are? I seem to have lost / mislabelled mine when I did the changeover.

Not sure if he's touched a RB30, but Martin at Speed Technology tuned my RB25DET + Wolf 3D+. ST are agents for Wolf, so they should know their stuff. And they work closely with AEM on the development of the Wolf. Trouble is they are probably closed for Xmas / NY. Can't hurt to give them a try on Wednseday - 9873 5400. Do you have a laptop? Worst case, I could give you my current map, and we could juggle it a bit to suit, at least it would get you running OK (mine punched 180 awkW).

Adjustable wrench = shifter (dear me!!) Try grabbing it with Vice Grips (NOT multi-grips)

Could be the TPS is out of alignment, and is not sending the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU. Anyway, the AAC is cleanable.

It can't be a "standard" unit, otherwise the banjo bolts would still fit. Unfortunately, not the best time of year to be taking it back to the guys who sold it to you and ask for it to be remedied. With the dump pipe, you will always have this problem because part of the design is to open out that area of the pipe. You could try replacing the bolts with stud / nut combo, but there's still the problem of getting a spanner onto the nuts to tighten them.

I got one (with light flywheel and HD pressure plate) from Adelaide Brake and Clutch. I was visiting Adelaide, so it made it easy. It came with the little dummy shaft aligning tool. Also comes with go-fast pink anodising.

I was warned against this. I was advised that the engine would ping its brains out, because the L24E was never designed to operate under boost conditions.

I know all that! Go back and read the original post again, figure out what I want to know, then post me an answer (if you have one). Thanks

Ever since I fitted the Wolf to the GTS4, I've had no A/c / Climate Control. And today was "Hot, DAMN HOT". The A/C works, except that it won't fire the compressor, because pin 9 has something to do with the "low gas pressure" switch in the A/C system. Can someone please track down the colour of the wire at pin 9 on a R32 ECU. And, if possible, please tell me what happens at that pin (volts = ??, whatever) when the A/C is turned on. Is it simply a matter of connecting to earth to get the A/C to work again.

Why not?The main reason I cut it was because I didn't have a soldering iron powerful enough to melt the solder.

There are a couple of locating dowels that help align the gearbox onto the back of the engine. They can sometimes "stick" and prevent the gearbox coming away from the engine. Make sure you have ALL the bolts out, starter motor off. You might need to get into the join with a screwdriver or similar flat implement to gently lever the gearbox away from the engine.

Sounds like a Code = 21, which is an ignition (spark) problem.

I simply cut the wire powering the inner tail light (at the tail lamp assembly). So I have: Headlights + 2 hotplates 4 brake lights So, at night I get 2 fresh lights come on when I brake (don't have one of those ridiculous "eye-level" brake lights).

Double clutching is generally used on downchanges, but it can be used on upchanges on very old cars where the gearbox synchros are pretty knackered. The basic principle is to match the speed of the gearbox input shaft to the speed of the output shaft, and reduce the load on the synchros. Most common on downshifts, there are 2 variants - heel/toe and double clutch. In a heel/toe, most common on modern cars to prevent the rear wheels trying to drive the engine when you engage a lower gear, the idea is to blip the throttle in the middle of the gear change, while the clutch is depressed and the gear lever is in the neutral position between gears. This brings the engine speed up to the match road speed of the lower gear. It is usually done by applying brake with the toe of your right foot, and pivoting the heel of your foot around to blip the throttle, hence its name - heel / toe. With double clutch, instead of having the clutch depressed, you release the clutch while blipping the throttle, then depress it again to engage the gear. This is to match the engine speed to the road speed when the synchros are crook and don't actually do the job they are supposed to. Hope that all makes sense.

Try cleaning the AAC valve. Check the TPS throttle-closed position.

What happens if you swap sides with them? I'm pretty sure when I did mine, I just got stuff for the GT-R, and it all fits in.

I think you should have a word with a solicitor. I don't think they are entitled to "follow me" to you - they need to have you chance upon their setup. Otherwise the cops would simply "please follow me to the booze bus 2 km out of your way".

On the brake front, I'm in the process of developing an upgrade using early Z31 hub / rotor / caliper. As far as I can see at the moment, the hub / rotor are a straight replacement for the R30 unit. The only real mod is to have the mounting holes in the caliper plugged and re-drilled at 90mm centres (currently 100mm centres). Engine-wise for this one is the L20ET + Wolf3D. In future, I've got a RB20DET sitting in the garage that I can't seem to get rid of, so may as well bolt it into a R30 sedan.

I have a set of R32 GTS4 rotors (5-stud) that will need a really good clean (rusted). If you come and get them they are yours.

I know this will sound strange, but check the connections to the TPS

Talk to Steve at EFI Hardware. He has 3-channel units, but they might end up costing as much as a replacement GT-R unit.

That's why I couldn't use the BATMBL dump that I originally bought. Ended up selling it and getting one custom made.

I don't think any other diffs are as short(?) as the GTS4. The Stagea is around 4.06

You can fit them cheaply in my driveway. Don't know about the initial cost, though.