blind_elk

I've got one, from a Stagea RB25DET. P/N = 92600 0V001 (2C801 45010) How does that compare to yours?

Stupid thing is, you can learn in one, because a fully licenced driver is "in charge" of the vehicle. All well and good, but who's "in control"? And then, you can drive to the test, and do the test, in one, but (assuming you pass), you can't drive it home!!!!! Yes, it's based on the power : weight (125 kW / T) (or capacity : weight = 3.5 l / T), ...BUT.... Initially, cars are placed on the list according to the factory spec. But, if you hot up a car not on the list to a point where it exceeds to power : weight (or capacity : weight), then it is also "technically" illegal for a P-plater do drive it. So you stick a 5.7 V8 in a HQ, then it's illegal for a P-plater, even though the stock HQ is legal.

The GTS4's diff (4.375) in the RB20 swapped straight over into the RB25DET Stagea engine I fitted.The front suspension needs to be almost pulled apart, because you need to extract the RH drive shaft before you can remove the diff. (the LH is not quite as involved) The torque setting on the pinion retaining nut is "VFT". You will need a BBIIGG socket and a LLOONNGG breaker bar to undo it.

Yes, if you only drive at 35kph, why on earth do you need 320hp - you won't even get out of 1st gear, FFS!

I'm guessing both relays from behind the ECU are the same PartNo - they are just a relay after all. Ive been working from the JPNZ manual - the engine wiring diagram is on page EN-289, if that's any help

I don't believe the FPCM is a relay - the workshop manual shows it as basically a transistor, presumably designed to maintain voltage at the pump.

Unfortunately, I wasn't smart enough to label them, or make any sort of written record as to which is which. I think you need to get the genuine Nissan article, because they use a non-standard pin arrangement (well, they are certainly different to the Bosch types). Unless you are prepared to unpick the connectors from the plug to connect onto a standard Bosch type.

The one up by the turbo is the O2 sensor. The one underneatrh is a temp sensor that plugs into the catalytic converter.

Sorry, but haven't you been watching the news recently? Young inexperienced drivers getting in hi-powered cars and wiping out themselves and, unfortunately, other innocent people. And don't give us the "But it won't happen to me. I'll behave myself" crap. We all know you won't - we certainly didn't behave ourselves at one time or another. It happened to those people in the news recently; it can happen to you. Get a dunger, get some proper experience behind the wheel - join a car club and go onto a race track. Only then should you get behind the wheel of a beast similar to what you are proposing. Please take the advice of someone older and wiser. I, for one, certainly don't want to be hearing a news bulletin describing your demise at the wheel of a powerful and unforgiving car.

two.06l, I've recently done a full re-wire installation of a Wolf 3D into my R32 GTS4, utilising the factory relays. I think I know where the fuel pump relay is. I think you will find that the "relay" in the boot is the "fuel pump control modulator" (but I can't swear by that).

One of those relays is the fuel pump, the other is the coil packs

I'm pretty certain that you can fit a 2WD sump on a 4WD engine, but you can't fit a 4WD sump on a 2WD engine.Actually, I've got a spare block you can check your sump against.

I've installed that kit in my GTS4 over 12 months ago, and I haven't had a problem with squeaking at all.

Bring the engine around to TDC on #1. Remove the dizzy cap - the rotor should (probably) be pointing somewhere near "8 o'clock". Then work out which pole of the cap matches the rotor position - that's #1. Then, anticlockwise, they are 3 4 2. Guessing similar for the second dizzy - or whatever it uses.

$800 is probably for both plates - pressure and driven. I got a new lightweight flywheel + HD pressure plate + ceramic standard plate (all Exedy stuff) last April for just over $1G from Adelaide Brake & Clutch

I could have done a reasonable RB20 re-build, probably with the 4AGZE pistons for a bit of compression. But I heeded the advice of people in the know who advised me that "cubic inches DO count". So I went the RB25 route. I don't need to worry about lag, because the engine already has a HEAP of low-down torque to get me into trouble.

If you're after one, I've got one - from a Stagea. Only after $500

Seems to be. Got one from Autobarn today. HTF do they work, exactly?

Been there, done that. But now I can pull stumps out of the ground. The RB25 has SOOO MUUCCHH torque down low, from the VVT. Add a Wolf 3D 4+ (or other aftermarket ECU), and you are starting to talk numbers. Mine, running 10psi on 95 octane crap now punches 180 awkW (RB20 had 115) - equivalent to maybe 210 rwkW, 240+ fwkW, and that's approaching HSV Commonwhore, but doing it with 2 less cylinders, 3 less litres, but 1 more camshaft.

I think with a pump that big, it's going to negate everything else by causing the engine to run RICH AS. You have to have a big front mount if you want to keep the indiction air cool. That woosy little thing that Mr Nissan stuck in there is not going to keep 14psi air cold enough to produce power. I got 145 out of my RB20DET, at around 10psi. It could be that the engine can't swallow 14psi, so it's not going to run as well. An after market ECU is worthwhile, as it allows you to lean off the mixtures, which translates to more power. Rather than a GT-R, you could also upgrade the engine to a RB25DET - mine (RB25DET w/VVT, Wolf 3D 4+) is pumping 180 at 4 wheels, which I guestimate at 210 rwkW, 240+ fwkW. And that's on 10psi and 95 octane crap. That's close to a HSV Commonwhore, but done with 2 less cylinders and 3 less litres (but one more camshaft!) Food for thought.

i think they have to be from a S2

I don't need the car for a daily driver, so no real urgency, other than definitely need it back on the road for Sunday. I started tonight with the rears. But had a silly thought that K-Mart might carry them, so I'll check tomorrow night. Or might even check Autobarn in the city tomorrow. Thanks anyway, inark.

I also have one, but it has AWD sump (I think a 2WD sump can be fitted). engine only, $900

Anyone got a brake bleed kit I can borrow when I fit my new braided lines?

is yours a S1? Are the replacements from a S2? Because the S2 had the ignitors inside the coils, and they won't work if you already have an ignitor pack for your old coils.