blind_elk

Have a look on www.ngk.com.au . They have a range of O2 sensors for various Nissans, but they don't mention the Z. They have different P/No, but they seem to have the same plug. (Couldn't work out ngk.com - they only seem to have spark plugs). All O2 sensors have the same purpose - to put a voltage signal, and it is usually 0 - 1V, so I wouyld be guessing that any sensor would do. In fact, it's quite common here to substitute a Ford model (about half the Nissan price), and they seem to do the job.

subtle reminder

Maybe rusted in. Throw a bit of WD40 down them, can't hurt

It's easy for me to sit here, WAY past needing P-plates (actually, they didn't have them when I got my licence, we still had the man with the red flag LOL) and say that P-platers shouldn't be permitted to drive hi-po vehicles. But it does need to happen, as part of a package aimed at reducing the overall road toll. They have done it for bikes (250cc max), why shouldn't they do a similar thing with cars? But the major component of the package has to be aimed at the skill and attitude level of the people we accept to share the roads with. IMHO, it is far too easy to get a licence. You are basically taught how to get the licence, not how to DRIVE the car. IMO, it should be necessary to have passed an advanced driving course to get your off 1st tier Ps. Then perhaps an advanced driving course, or equivalent experience (such as club level motorsport) to get off your Ps totally. It would be easy enough for government to sponsor this, paid for by the savings in trauna treatment. When I got my licence, there was a school holiday course for L-drivers. I attended, even though I had my licence. All my driving life, I have done what was necessary to improve my ability as a driver, to the point where i can proudly state that I have not been involved in a collision for more than 20 years, despite being an habitual "exceeder of the speed limit". I have trouble activating the ABS in my car, because I was taught how to "threshhold brake". I read the road by looking several cars ahead so I anticipate situations that might require sudden application of the brakes. If driver training is not part of the solution to this problem, why is it that police forces around Australia and the world insist on putting their people through various stages of advanced car control. The other part of the solution lies in what we are controlling - CAR = Concentration, Anticipation, Reaction. Without one, you can have none of the others.

The tyres fitted to the rims should have a spec for optimum pressure. As a rule of thumb, run the fronts 2 psi higher than the rears - it helps to reduce understeer.

If you can't fit the slave cylinder with the box bolted up, then it won't fit after you slacken off the box a bit. Ordinarily, the slave should be auto-adjusting. Did you measure the height of the new clutch compared with a standard one? if you could fit it on with a shorter pushrod, then shorten the pushrod. But be careful you don't lose "travel".

GTS4 bar is hollow, therefore much "lighter". The GT-R bar (solid, at least less hollow) fits. If the link pin was bent, it would tend to cause the bar to "do its thing" and try and level up the car - I've seen a problem where jacking one side of the car caused difficulties installing suspension. It would have to be pretty difficult to bend the bar out of shape - otherwise it would be useless installing them in the first place.

Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club has its annual Councourse this weekend. When: Sunday 28 November Where: Southbank, outside Esso Time : 9:00 - 3:30ish What: All Zs (240 -> 300), Skylines (Prince -> modern), 200SX, GTiR, etc. Standard / Modified / Race All welcome.

You could come down to Southbank on Sunday where the NDSOC and Prince Skyline Register are having a Show'n'Shine, basically outside Esso.

I have a Recaro in my R32 - I've had it for many years. It allows me to sit a bit lower in the car so that when I wear my helmet, I don't need to slide forward and down. The degree of lowering depends on how well the seat is adapted to fit in the car. Go and talk to Tony at IdealSeat in Moorabbin.

Have they got a 4WD dyno?

El-Presidente last week indicated that SAU-Vic would investigate a group buy on 2-way radios. I'm currently investigating a group buy for the NDSOC Targa Tour 2005. The model we have in mind is the Uniden UH041. It comes as a single unit, or in a twin-pack. I don't have prices as yet, but if you might be interested, post a reply here. check out http://www.uniden.com.au/v3/FRAME_PROD.HTM for details

Not aware of any. Only SAU-Vic, and NDSOC that can accommodate GT-R.

Actually, No they don't have a knock sensor. They have 2 - one near #2, and one near #5 cylinders, under the manifold. (Sorry, couldn't resist being a pedantic B.)

I also have a Wolf. I used double-sided tape to mount it in front of the centre air vent (on a R32). It seemed to sit there quite happily, but it did come away easily (fortunately) when I decided to "un-mount" it. Maybe you have crappy DS tape. There is also self-adhesive velcro available if you need to be continually mounting / dismounting the controller.

Also, what about the FWD bit of it all?

The engine is a straight fit (I did a Stagea RB25DET into a GTS4). You'll probably need a new computer as well. It should plug straight in, and connect to the correct (RB20) sensors. You also need to worry about the 4WD drive shaft (t/fer case -> front diff).

You're probably right there. :Oops: Been a while since I touched the injectors in the RB20. I know the L24E and RB25 have the injectors firmly attached to the fuel rail.

You've obviously picked up the light in the lighter, not +12V to the lighter.

If you remove the fuel rail from the manifold, you can then inspect the injectors to see what they do when: 1 - Prime (turning IGN to ON). 2 - Crank - turn IGN to START In case of 1, there should be no fuel coming out of the injectors. In case of 2, you should see each injector spray fuel as engine turns over. You can simulate 2 by removing CAS (leave connected to loom), turn key to ON, and rotate CAS shaft by hand. To test the FPR, you need a pressure gauge to insert between fuel filter and fuel rail.

Is the steering rack still OK?

What size are the globes in the gauges? 5W? That's less than half an amp each. So you're pulling 1.5 amps (for 3 gauges) through a 15 amp fuse - what danger is there in that? The only problem with using the cig lighter power is that your gauges' lights will be on whenever the ignition is on.

Are you sure it's the rotor? Any thought of the wheel bearings going AWOL?

AFAIK, everything is interchangeable, except perhaps the rear cradle (not sure). RB26s have been stuck in GTSts, and I know the suspension is the same.

The ECU is controlling the coilpacks, and it knows how many times it is telling the coils to fire in any given period of time.It's pin 7 on the ECU.