blind_elk

The turbo is being driven by exhaust gasses. How could an external device affect the speed of rotation of the shaft? It cools down by virtue of the fact that the exhaust gases are cooler, and absorb heat out of the turbo, as well as allowing the turbo to radiate some heat to the air in the engine bay. You don't even need one for track. In fact it may not be allowed because it could keep the engine running after a crash. The Shell Sierras years ago used to do a single cool-down lap at Sandown at the end of practice, and then pull into the pits and switch off the engine - no idling, no timer. No, it's really an intelligence factor. If you slow down during the last few minutes of the drive, then it will be perfectly safe to stop the engine when you reach your destination. If you don't, then you wait half a minute when you get there.

My IC I had built by Race Radiators in Dandenong. The outlet pipe returns on the underside and it all hooks up to the factory plumbing (with minor mods)

Not usually a good idea. The fuse is there to protect everything. Putting a higher rated fuse increases the risk of damage before the fuse goes.Why not just stick a 6" nail in there?

If I can get my brake hoses back LOL

Yep, that's the little bugger. The Z200 will probably work, but I would check if you can get the correct one first.

All that gunk in the radiator will be seriously affecting the heat transfer from the water to the metal of the radiator. Get the radiator fully cleaned by a reputable radiator repair place, and you may start having a bit more success. Have you been using coolant (glycol, etc) in the cooling system?

In the 32, it's in the same place (as the 33). Little silver canister, about 4cm diameter. Follow the fuel lines back from where they connect to the fuel rail. The filter can be a bugger to remove, because the hoses "weld" onto the the metal piping. I've found the simplest way is to grab the fitting with vice-grips and twist the filter to break the seal.

Didn't the gauges come with instructions? 1. Go and buy a multimeter, a pair of alligator clips, and a paper clip. Open out the paper clip and slip it into the back of each connection at the O2 sensor connector. Start engine. Use the alligator clips to connect one lead of the multimeter to the paper clip. One connection should show approx 14V, one will show 0V, and the other will be varying between 0 - 1V. That is the one you want. (It should be the middle one) 2. You've been given the answer - find the oil pressure sender, located just rearward of the oil filter. Insert a T adapter. I personally prefer essay-quality (not an essay, just essay-quality), because I then don't spend half my time deciphering what you are saying. We may be "talking" cars, but we are doing it by "reading" the words, not by "hearing" the words. So it would be nice if you spelled the words the way most of us are used to seeing them spelled.

Oops, that's tomorrow (Sunday) for a MSCA hillclimb event. Hadn't noticed there was a drift day Saturday.

Yes, I'll be there. NDSOC have organised a cruise for non-competitors, leaving Hallam pub 9am. All welcome to join in.

If you're going to replace them, there are aftermarket urethane ones that are probably a lot cheaper than genuine ones as well.

Yes, same as all the L-series engines.

Stud Road is a long road, with lots of intersections. Surely you have a better idea of where you were than "at an intersection on Stud Road".

There are different size carriers for the thrust bearing. If you installed a "short" one, then it won't reach far enough to properly disengage the clutch. I have also encountered a situation where the cup that the thrust fork pivots on had split open, so that every time you pressed the cluch pedal, the fork started to slip down over the pivot pin. It may well be a case of pulling the gearboix out and checking things and measuring things. BTW, which gearbox are you installing?

I'm looking at doing the same conversion, using a L20ET I once had fitted up to a 240Z. I've done the pin-mapping for the 2 looms, and as far as I can tell, the ECU pinouts are identical, except that the L20 ECU requires a O2 sensor feed to pin 16 (O2 sensor earth/shield) and pin 31 (O2 signal) (although pins 16 & 31 don't exist in the L24E ECU). But it would be easy enough to add that wiring in. I think pin 13 in the L24 is the fuel pump relay, which the L20 doesn't seem to have, but that, again, would be simple enough to wire in. But I'm going to be using an older Wolf 3D, since that's what was running it in the Z.

That sounds like the NICS engine. They have 2 inlet runners for varaible inlet runners. One runner is controlled by a butterfly setup, and they have a tendency to jam, but usually in the "long" position, so the engine runs like a dog down low, but generally runs OK up high (presumably if you can get there).Get your mechanic to chek that the butterflies in the runners are operating OK.

Set of black brake lines thanks. R32 GTS4 (probably same as R32 GT-R)

Is it the NICS engine, or the ECCS engine? (there's a plate on the inlet plenum)

Is that the snorkel that runs under the headlight? Ditch it!

Latest HPI has an article on adjustable castor rods available from TGS Performance (down Moorabbin way). Try them on 9555 0699. They may be able to help with the other bits, too.

If you're only doing a day trip, you should be able to get fuel at Geelong, do the trip, and get back to Geelong to refuel.

Yes, but how fast would it have been solved if you had started at State Manager (ie TOP)? I had a problem once with an insurance company (sister to my own employer) that was hassling me over a claim by some jerk that reversed into me, and claimed I was at fault. I emailed the chief honcho in Sydney, explained my case, and he got things rolling to make sure that the case was closed.

If it has the same size tyres all round, then the rears will have a slightly less rolling circumference. This will cause problems for ATTESSA, because the rears will rotate faster than the fronts, simulating rear-wheel slip.

No, you should always start at the TOP, and work your way down. Then the people that matter get to hear about it.If you start at the bottom, everyone CsTA (Covers Their Arse) and the top people don't know that there's problems.

I've often wondered myself why this occurs. I pondered what is going on and came up with the following reasoning: The fuel pump supplies fuel under pressure to the injector. When the injector opens, fuel flows into the manifold, and the pressure behind the injector drops. The drop in pressure allows the pump to move more fuel in to re-establish the pressure. Now, what happens when you install a bigger pump? A pump that can move more fuel in a given time? While the injector is open, the new pump can replace the fuel at a faster rate than the original pump could. Therefore, there is more fuel at a slightly higher pressure available to the injector. So the injector delivers more fuel at the same load. That's my theory, anyways.