blind_elk

If it has the same size tyres all round, then the rears will have a slightly less rolling circumference. This will cause problems for ATTESSA, because the rears will rotate faster than the fronts, simulating rear-wheel slip.

No, you should always start at the TOP, and work your way down. Then the people that matter get to hear about it.If you start at the bottom, everyone CsTA (Covers Their Arse) and the top people don't know that there's problems.

I've often wondered myself why this occurs. I pondered what is going on and came up with the following reasoning: The fuel pump supplies fuel under pressure to the injector. When the injector opens, fuel flows into the manifold, and the pressure behind the injector drops. The drop in pressure allows the pump to move more fuel in to re-establish the pressure. Now, what happens when you install a bigger pump? A pump that can move more fuel in a given time? While the injector is open, the new pump can replace the fuel at a faster rate than the original pump could. Therefore, there is more fuel at a slightly higher pressure available to the injector. So the injector delivers more fuel at the same load. That's my theory, anyways.

As I said:

Have you got decent pics of the mirrors? [email protected] Tx

As you go UP in rim size, you need to come DOWN in profile. And as you go WIDER in tread, you need to go DOWN in profile. You probably should look at 255/35 tyres (CBF doing the calcs).

Find the fuel pressure regulator, near the front of the plenum - that's "OUT"

VL pump might fit (one hole might be in a different spot), you can get them from Bursons. Don't know about the belt. Could try Dayle at Nispares in Bayswater, or try Blackburn Nissan.

That'll do it !!!! :skull:

It's a switch for the A/C thermo fan (as has been mentioned in numerous previous threads on the subject).

It's most likely for the protection a coat of paint gives to the metals of the intercooler.

There's a trade-off when painting radiators and the like. Generally, the paint is applied for protection. It is usually black, because black radiates heat better. Yes, it also absorbs heat more, but in this case we want to release heat, not trap it. But - and here's the trade-off - the resins that make up the paint are poor thermal transmitters. So while the black allows the heat to be radiated more efficiently, the paint itself inhibits the flow of heat from the metal surface to the surface of the paint.

I've had it happen. Usually leaves just enough pedal travel to get the car home. You need to remove the instrument panel to get at a bolt holding the top of the box up in place.

Mine does that too. Sometimes the gauge will jump to 50%, but no 4WD appears to be in effect. I think it's something silly like "it's getting old". It doesn't appear to have affected the overall performance of the car - the AWD still happens when I need it to happen. I wouldn't worry about it. Don't remove the fuse, or you will totally disable the 4WD.

The GTS4 will have a connection (pin 56) to the ATTESSA system, which I don't think the GTSt will have. Discovered this after I installed a Wolf 3D - was told I should have used the GT-R plug'n'play unit.

I don't proclaim to obey 100% of the road rules 100% of the time; and I resent the implication that just because I might break a road rule now and then precludes me from passing comment. I have been caught exceeding the speed limit, but that is all. I keep ALL my racing off the street. I enjoy the drive to and from the event just as much as I enjoy the event itself. If you can't cope with having to drive more than 10 minutes to get to an event, then maybe you should sell your car. 18 months, and that was on the highway How many of you young whipper-snappers killing themselves in street races is it going to take before you accept that the street is NOT the place for it? The facilities are available, use them!As far as the night curfew, I oppose it, on the grounds that it is "effective by omission" - how are P-platers supposed to get the experience if they are banned from participating. Teach them properly in the first place, and you don't have a problem. That is where I object to the penny-pinching of the government. And you still haven't answered my original question - which one are you?

What a load off parrot-poo. The irresponsible ones might. The ones who don't give a rat's about other people's safety might. The responsible ones will use the facilities that exist right here, right now.Which one are you? It's also been "proven" that night curfews reduce the number of P-platers killing themselves. Based on your logic, you'd have to support that initiative too, wouldn't you?

The 32's bottle is in the same location, so I'm guessing the 33's is too. Have fun pulling everything out to get at the motor on the underside of the bottle.

PLEASE, do not get into a war with your mate over whose car is fastest / best / most powerful / best handler / best stopper. It is not worth your, or worse, someone else's, life.If you must, make sure you take it off-street, ie racetrack.

OK, that makes sense. Assuming you're running the stock RB20DET ECU, then Pin 7 out of the ECU is the tacho driver.

Have you check what xRHETTx suggested first? Installing a PFC would be an awfully expensive fix for a leak that can be cured with a couple $ of hose.

What exactly is the problem? I think someone has this arse-about. If anything, the engine generates a rpm signal for the ECU.

You have fluid in the clutch master cylinder? It could also be a worn clutch plate. That will necessitate removal of the gearbox to replace the clutch plates (driven and pressure).

Would help if you told us which particular model? I know it can't be a R32, because they use a push-button to activate the washer. It could be a R30, because I know they use a pull on the lever that activates the wiper to activate the washer. In the R30, it's tucked under the LH engine bay skirt, outboard of the air cleaner / meter. Your (idiot) repairer (probably the apprentice, actually) probably forgot to reconnect the wires to the motor.

Any decent mechanic should know about the CO test on the cooling system. I would build an undertray that spans the front bar to the engine X-member. I had one on my Z years ago, and it was quite efficient at helping the radiator cool the engine. I was going to do the same for my R32 after I put a thermo on it. I could get the thermo to turn on even at highway cruise conditions in low 20s (deg C). But I put the factory fan back on instead. Have I mentioned a series of articles at www.autospeed.com on siting undertrays and bonnet vents. I think you really need to be creating a low pressure region behind the radiator, so that air has to pass thru the radiator and cool the engine.