blind_elk

I've stuck a Stagea RB25DET in my R32 GTS4, and the lowdown torque is just phenomenal. The only other option for a GTS4 is a RB26DETT, but they are expensive. You can get a Stagea halfcut for around $4k, I believe. The engine slots straight in, and I'm still using the standard drive train. With aftermarket ECU (Wolf 3D), it cranks 180 kw @ ALL FOUR WHEELS on 10psi and crap 95 octane.

Glad you enjoyed yourself, and I hope you got something valuable out of the day.

Yes, I just use ATF fluid in mine.

If you've got the spring compressors, and you use them properly, nothing can "go flying". Just make sure you know the order that everything came off, so you can reassemble. If these stockos are only temporary, then why worry about the boot. I think they are more than a $2 part. I don't run tyhem on mine, and I don't have any problems. If you really want them, I reckon Pedders or similar would have something to suit.

I can guarantee you, you will get HEAPS of track time. At the Maseratti day, you might get 12 laps for your $125. At this day, you will get that many laps in your first session! And for only $85. And you get instruction thrown in. So come on down, you can simply roll up on Sunday morning and enter then.

Haven't had a chance to 1/4 mile it yet. But just driving it around, it's obvious that a considerable increase in mumbo has been installed under the right foot. eg, driving up Arthurs Seat hillclimb, crap ignition timing (idle = 40!!), RWD mode (temporarily lost the throttle signal to ATTESSA), minimal throttle, and little or no boost, it would light up the rear tyres coming out of the corners. Something only ever dreamed of with the RB20DET. There is a HEAP more torque, and a lot more power.

Actually, I also have an engine in 4 bits (block, head, in & ex manifolds) that needs a set of pistons.You can have that for around $250.

gtst89, Dluded, read the first post!

I've just recently done this. I used the RB25DET from a Stagea. This is the only alternative, other than a RB26DETT, because the R33 engine can't accept the the 4WD sump. I also chose to add a lightened flywheel, HD pressure plate and ceramic clutch plate, and run aftermarket ECU (Wolf 3D 4+). All up, I think it cost around $8k, but I did all the mechanical work myself. If you get a half-cut - I think you can get one for around $4k - you get the loom and ECU as well. You will probably need a flywheel and clutch anyway, because manual versions are apparently as common as rocking horse shit. But the results were worthwhile - ended up with nearly 180 kw at FOUR WHEELS - up from 115 awkw with the RB20DET.

Go have a look on the DBA site - www.dba.com.au - there is a catalogue of all their available rotors, and you can compare the specs on the 2 you are interested in.

You can bring a Kenworth truck if it's roadworthy! Well, not quite.Why not come down and enter anyway. It really is value for money, at just $85. Considering the Maseratti day the following week is $125, you might get 12 laps on that day. This day, you will probably get that in your first session on the track, and you should get 3 or 4 sessions on the day. Plus the added benefit of an instructor to help point you in the right direction.

It's OK, I'm watching. But who ever takes your place will need to fill out and sign the application form, for legal purposes (insurance, etc).You have obviously considered getting another car for the day?

Still sitting in my garage.

Then what's the point of the other 3 or 4 gears on the selector guide if not to be selected.Autos, IMHO, are a lazy driver's gearbox.

They are too small (diameter-wise) - that is why RB26 owners are always after RB20 AFMs.

Yes, the low-beam is a H3C as you have discovered.

Did you leave it for a few minutes for the oil to find its way the to sump? Did you replace the oil filter while you were changing the oil. Sump capacity (at H level) is supposed to be 4 litres + 0.4 for the filter.

If you run retarded ignition timing, I think that causes the engine to run hot. Or if the cam timing is retarded, that can cause the engine to run hot. Did you have the injectors cleaned before the engine was fitted into the car? Who knows what they picked up lying aroiund a yard for any period of time.

OK, I have checked with one of the guys who will be scrutineering your cars on Sunday. He says that mounting the extinguisher behind the driver's seat will be OK, as long as you can easily get to it.

Are you sure the thermo fans are working - do you have a pilot / tell-tale light for when they come on? At 100 C, they should be on permanently. Try a cooler plug, say PFR6A-11, gapped to 0.8mm (approx 32 thou) If the engine is running rich, then it's less likely to overheat, because the excess fuel helps cool the engine.

I don't have an auto - sports cars shouldn't have autos, IMO - but when I do drive an auto, it gets driven like a manual, ie select the right gear for the current situation; so at red light, select 1st gear; turning corner, shift back to 2nd; etc.

It's probably the same. I once bought a thermostat for a Holden Commodore (GM) - it used the Nissan RB30 engine - for my RB20DET. Take your thermostat down to your Nissan dealer and compare it to the 300ZX unit.

It's possibly a faulty coil ignitor. They become susceptible to heat after a while, and need to cool down before they will work again.

If you have the engine, loom and comp, then it's a straight swap. Pull the RB20 out, put the RB25 in. To change the loom, it's easiest if you remove the LH guard. And fit a new clutch assembly while you have access to it.

I have received a couple of queries regarding if people's entries have been received. As a matter of course, we do not send out any sort of acknowledgement that your entry has been received and / or accepted. As a rule, if you sent it in within a reasonable time prior to the event, then it is more than likely that it will be OK. So, please don't PM asking about your entry.