blind_elk

You have fluid in the master cylinder? It could be a worn out clutch. If you remove the gearbox for repairs, make sure you replace the clutch, because the major cost here is labour.

IMHO, the Defensive course should actually be included in the original "learn to drive" bit. From a perception point of view, I don't think you should have a stage called "performance" - I think it will only add to the public perception that P-platers in hi-po cars are hoons. I reckon that things might get better if P-platers had to pass the Advanced / Hi-po driving course to get off their Ps.

Factory or aftermarket?

But you are allowed to LEARN in one of these so-called "hi-powered" cars. The logic is that there's a fully licenced driver IN CHARGE of the vehicle. All well and good, but who's IN CONTROL of the vehicle. Classic case is that family killed up near Bendigo couple of months back, learning in a HSV Commodore. Then, after you go for your test, assuming you pass, you're not allowed to drive the fn car home!!

It will have the type stamped on the body of the globe somewhere.

I would do the cooler and exhaust first. No point in continuing to allow the engine to ingest hotter-than-necessary air. And no point in choking the performance by not having the exhaust gasses able to easily escape the turbo housing. Then the fuel pump - no point in risking that 3k bottom end on a lean-out from a crappy pump. My understanding is that the forgies will be a bit of overkill - the stock Nissan items can handle the power you are looking for (I think that info is available thru a search)

Ronin, tom It's probably going to be more acceptable if the extinguisher can be seen from the seating position, rather than being "hidden" behind something, even if it is actually easier to reach. The passenger seat doesn't need to be forward at all on the day - use the way I've mounted it as a temporary solution, then take it out afterwards. (I don't have the problem that I need access to the rear seats) If you plan on carrying the extinguisher permanently - not really a bad idea to have one in the car at all times - then it might be worth drilling holes in the car somewhere, maybe up beside the radio / A/C area on the passenger side. Or mount it behind you, but bring it out for track days. It's a 10(?) minute job to change it over? You're welcome to call 'round any time and look at my setup, I can even supply the aluminium strip.

Mine's a GTS4, it has the same basic mechanicals as the GT-R under there, so presumably very similar floor pan as well.tom_g - you might have a problem with getting your setup passed, it may not be deemed "easily accessible" by the scrutineers.

Next year, QANTAS will be sponsoring Jim, after his "Flying Kangaroo" trick

Frankly, I don't think it can be a problem with the size of the radiator. AFAIK, GT-Rs don't seem to have a problem, even "Down Under", where it can get pretty fn hot in summer. The thermo fans should not be your primary source of radiator cooling. They are designed to only come on after prolonged low speed times, like peak-hour traffic. Ordinarily, the movement of the car through the air is sufficient to keep the temperature under control. Your problem is all related to air flow (or lack of it) through the radiator. There was a recent series of articles on Autopseed (www.autospeed.com) dealing with siting undertrays and vents. Might be worth a read. (might cost you a subscription - about A$35 - , but what will a new engine cost?) Japanese Motorsport (www.japanesemotorsport.com.au) a while ago built a RB20-something'd 180SX, and encountered the same sort of problem, until they noticed on a dyno run that the spray bottle they were cooling the IC with, the spray was not going anywhere near the IC and radiator - it was flowing straight under the car!!

In my 32, I have a strip of aluminium between the 2 bolts that hold the front of the seat onto the floor. It works on either side, but mine is mounted on passenger side, because Bride seat frame adjusing handle interferes on driver's side. Like this: The bolt at centre-right is the bolt holding down the seat adjacent to the gearbox tunnel. The handle is the seat fore-aft adjuster.

Save your time, and PM me. I've got one left over from the RB25DET upgrade to the R32 GTS4.

The extinguisher needs to be in EASY REACH of the driver. Strapped into the seat, it will be difficult to reach around and grapple for the extinguisher. I've mounted mine on a strip of Aluminium fixed with the 2 bolts that hold down the front of the passenger's seat. (I used to have it on the driver's side, until I stuck in a Recaro on a Bride seat frame) like this:

AFAIK, it just pulls off (might be a tight fit, but still pulls off). Top it up with brake fluid.

I understand N/As really need longer duration cams than turbos, which probably means custom grind. Or you could try RB20DE or RB25DE camshafts. Port the head. Shave a few thou off the head to raise the C/R. Fit domed pistons.

As the suspension travels through from max to min, the effective length of the tie rods changes, altering the toe-in (or toe-out as the case may be). This is usually because the polygon bounded by the lower control arm, the strut, and the tie rod do not form a parallelogram. Therefore, the solution is to create a parallelogram, usually by moving the pickup point for the lower control arm - both laterally and vertically - so that the lower control arm and the tie-rod move through parallel arcs during suspension travel.

I expect it will be a totally subjective decision of the Clerk of Course &/or Stewards. Basically, if you are acting like a tool, then you will be spoken to. If you don't heed that warning, you will be asked to pack up and take your attitude somewhere else.

Have you also checked the timing at something other than idle? Give it a bit of throttle up to, say, 2k, and compare the timing with light / PFC. Do you still get the same disparity between the light and the PFC? Is there any sort of offset adjustment in the PFC, like there is in the Wolf for example? (Wolf expects an initial trigger @ 60 BTDC, and you can adjust that value so that the Wolf and the timing light agree)

Are you sure the timing light is measuring correctly? My experience has been that using the loop near the ignitor module, the timing light seemed to read double the actual timing. Using the "insert spark plug lead under #1 coil" seems to be the safest way to get a true timing value. Although, I read recently that if you lock the slidy bit of the timing light pickup back out of the way, then the loop works correctly.

You don't want to fit a RB25 head on the RB20 block - you'll lose a heap of compression, not to mention that the bore size of the RB25 is considerably bigger than the RB20 bore size (86 vs 78).

Was the Microtech tuned for the higher boost levels? I'm no expert, and I'll readily latch onto the latest flavour-of-the-month condition, but it sounds like compressor surge at the higher boost. Mine was doing it while tuning the Wolf yesterday, simply dial timing and / or fuel into it to cure it.

12 kg/cm2 @ 300rpm

I believe the only adjustments that can be made are: Front Toe Rear Toe Rear Camber

MIC, more like the R33 - doesn't have traction control, but does have VVT. Cam - not really a drags person, but might take it to the off-streets one Friday night to see what it can do.