blind_elk

Certainly different to the strut tops in my GTS4

Yep, PHAT, at All 4 paws

I've recently install a Stagea C34 RB25DET and a Wolf 3D v4+ into my R32 GTS4. It seemed to have a bit more mumbo than the old RB20DET, but I didn't realise until I had it mapped on the dyno today. Early on, it was detonating it's brains, and no subtraction of timing seemed to cure it. It looked like I would be stuck with a paltry gain of only around 15 awkw (I was only getting about 130 awkw, compared with its last outing of 115 awkw with the RB20). Then we threw fuel at it, and everything started to work. The result: 178.4 AWKW runing 10psi, on 95 octane Caltex Vortex shyte (I'll bite the bullet and run Ultimate or Synergy in future). May not be a lot to some of you, but I'm rapt.

Yes, "registerable" is OK. The main problem at Sandown is noise upsetting the locals, so as long as the car meets noise restrictions (75dB(A) at 30 metres drive-by), then it will likely be OK.

I have them on my GTS4. They were fitted just before a trip to Tassie, performed pretty well while thrashing along some of the Targa roads.

Depends on the tyre. I'm running Bridgestone GIIIs, and they are recommended to run 36psi in them. As a rule of thumb, running around 2psi higher in the fronts (of a 2WD car) will reduce the tendency to understeer.

I think you will find they are slightly different. I just fitted a RB25DET into my R32. A couple of things I noticed: 1. There is now more room between the manifold and the strut tower, for accessing things like the oil filter and fuel filter. 2. To remove the fuel rail, on the 25 you need to remove the throttle body, whereas on the 20 you don't.

I recently purchased a new Century battery which had BOTH sizes of terminal post on it - quite useful for jump starting, amongst other things. I'm still using the factory "small" terminal clamps, and the car starts and runs just fine. If you are having trouble running too many things, a new battery is not really the answer, you probably need a bigger capacity alternator.

Do you always "make it fit"? Why don't you simply take the battery back and exchange it for one that has the correct sized terminal posts on it? Much less of a headache than what you've been through. But you've probably also damaged the battery, so you can't take it back.

It's never a bad thing to have a pretty red light in the dashbroad cluster - especially now that Xmas is approaching. There is a button up the top of the screen - its labelled "Search" - bloodywell use it. Or you could go back about 2 days worth of posts and you'll probably find ANOTHER question on exactly this topic.

Traction Tyres, Rowville

What is the car? You would be surprised where sounds ACTUALLY come from, often totally different to where they APPEAR to come from. Have you looked at the inside faces of the wheels - there might be a clearance problem with the caliper, or similar.

Try the ones from Speed Technology / EFI Hardware in Melbourne. They don't come in pretty anodised colours, and they don't have degree markings on the wheel, but they are a lot cheaper than the "brand names", and they do exactly the same job.

The gear ratio of the speedo drive takes account of the diff ratio. Check the Yellow Pages for "Instruments - General" for people who can re-calibrate the speedo.

Maybe try for a sender unit out of a VL gearbox. They are usually a gear set - a worm gear on the output shaft, and a helical gear on a removeable unit. The helical gears usually come in a variety of "teeth", so you can change them around to get the right ratios.

But, under pressure (ie with a 1bar radiator cap), the boiling point is raised considerably. Also raised by addition of anti-freeze. That's really the reason you don't remove the cap when the engine is hot - the pressure release causes the water to instantly boil and convert to steam.The temperatures you are achieving sound quite normal given the circumstances they are achieved under.

according to my JPNZ manual, the following pins are not used on the RB20DE(T): 6 8 17 25 33 34 35 36 37 39 40 55 102 106 111 113 The GT-R uses pin 6, as mentioned previously. It also uses 34 35 36 for the 2nd AFM

Usually 'round town, if I see the red light a few hundred metres ahead, I'll simply back off and coast in (still in gear). For cornering (at intersections), I'll generally drive up to the corner in 4th, brake, heel-toe straight to second, turn, power out. Heel-toe gets to be second nature after a while - even try to do it in autos LOL

Still plenty of places left. But please don't wait too long and flood me with applications at the last moment. Invariably, that leads to people missing out, and we don't want that.

And I can't seem to contact them to tell them I can't do anything.

I changed my email details, they sent me a "verification" email, then they got hacked, now I can't do the "verification". I can still login, I just can't do anything like post, or PM, or stuff.

AFAIK, that's about as good as you're going to get it.

We will have CAMS L2S licence applications available on the day.

9s might be pushing it a bit. I have 7.5s on mine, but you might get away with 8s. The width is more governed by the available space in the front.

Depends where you are, and how far you are prepared to drive for this service. I would recommend Speed Technology in Mitcham.