blind_elk

Short for "Supplementary Regulations" - it's basically the rules that will apply for the event.

If you haven't heard back from CAMS by the week of the event (ie October 12 0r 13), ring CAMS and ask them to fax confirmation to you.(If you don't have a fax, PM me for my fax number) I would suggest you get your entry in as early as possible. This is a popular event, and could easily fill up before the day.

Supp Regs can be downloaded from the club's website - ndsoc.com.au. Yes, Steve, there will be licence applications available on the day. And you can join NDSOC on the day as well, although if you're a member of SAU, then that will count.

Guys, and Gals. If you don't feel comfortable taking your car out on the track, why not come along and learn to be a flag marshal. You get to see the action from the other side of the fence, up close. You can watch how people take various lines through the corner that you're at. And its a GREAT photo spot. If you can help - and we need the help - PM me, or email: [email protected] or [email protected]

I don't think it matters which way round it is wired - it is simply running current through a coil to switch a solenoid. Did you have the injectors on the "new" head cleaned up before you fitted it all together?

If you are getting spark, then the CAS is working. Do you have power to the Injectors? This is usually direct battery 12V (via relay), and the ECU switches them to provide open / close. What ECU are you using?

$1000 is about average for a set. Try www.quadrantsuspensions.com.au - local agents, Melbourne based. or www.whiteline.com.au - don't know if they carry Bilsteins for GTSt, have an upgraded shock.

Its usually a sign of low fluid in the reservoir. Probably under acceleration, the fluid is pushed away enough from the sensor to let the sensor detect "low brake fluid". It probably comes on if you push it through a corner as well.

Nothing to do with ignition timing. All it does is change the amount of air bleeding into the plenum at idle (closed throttle).

Forget doing anything to the RB20. CUBIC INCHES COUNT. RB26 is too expensive as an engine. I did a RB25DET into my R32 - in RWD form, they are relatively inexpensive, and have nearly as much grunt as a 26. You can keep the RB20's loom, then hook up an aftermarket Plug'n'Play style ECU.

Not the ignitor, the coil. Do you have 12V on one of the terminals of the coil? And the injector?

What do you mean: ? Who installed it all, and wired it up?Power comes from the battery, via a relay (the ECU switches this power to activate the inj / coil). Test it with a multimeter.

I'm running a Wolf 3D on a Stagea RB25DET, standard injectorsa, but light flywheel. At idle (around 800), its got about 16 deg, but at the rev point below idle its got 19. Apparently produces more torque to pull the engine out of a stall.

Check the CAS that it's operating correctly. It should be sending a signal to the ECU so that the ECU knows when to open the injector and fire the coil. Do you have power for the injectors and the coils?

You need to run power via a relay to power up the ignition coils.

The 2-pin one? The single pin one is for the temperature gauge in the dashboard.Have you checked that the wires aren't broken (0 ohms to pin 28 at the ECU)? Have you checked for a recurrence of the error code?

Are you running higher than stock boost? Do you have a "hi-flowed" turbo? Do you know what punctuation is?

The most common cause of high fuel consumption is located at the end of your right leg. You don't need any of the "consult" wires (21 22 31 47) - they are for the Nissan diagnostic tool. You don't need 53 - 180kph limiter Probably don't need 104, unless your car has the hardware associated with this wire. You can probably get away without 19 56 is an output - I know it's for the ATTESSA system in 4WD models. Also for Auto Trans. You probably don't need it. Not sure about the "engine temp warning" wires - but I'm running an aftermarket ECU without this function, and it seems to go OK.

That's why they are charging 3Gs.

Why not buy a Malpassi adjustable regulator, and up the fuel pressure. You are probably running a bit under 3bar fuel pressure, I believe you can fairly safely run up to around 4bar.

I just got hold of mandrel bend exhaust piping. Cheap, but it does the job.

I think the horns mounted on the strut that supports the bonnet catch. There are probably 2 wires floating around there somewhere. When I fitted a FMIC, I moved the horns up onto the bolts that connect the bonnet catch to the strut.

Yes (probably doesn't matter if its top or bottom, they are both in manifold) They run down to the charcoal canister.

I've discovered that the boot lock isn't actually a "key" lock. I accidentally used the key to my R30 to unlock the boot on my R32. So I doubt you will have to change the locks at all.

Supposed to look like this: