blind_elk

RB20DET turbo bolts straight up. Need to manufacture the water lines though. Actually, I've got one here, off a red-top RB20DET, that you can have for about $50. Needs a wastegate actuator, though.

I have a disassembled engine - block, head, inlet, exhaust. Rods have been cleaned and honed, has no pistons. It's in Melbourne, But I'm sure we could get it to Brissie somehow. How's $300 sound?

Check your tyre pressures. I recall I got a similar situation when I ran the space-saver spare, which is a different rolling diameter from the normal wheels, on the front.

No, the backing plate from behind the rotor itself. Opens up the other side of the rotor to cooling air, probably also gives a good access point to duct air into where you want to duct it.

Why not duct onto the caliper itself? You have vented rotors, and if you have good quality pads, then there shouldn't be a major drama. Duct onto the caliper to help keep the brake fluid cool. And remove the backing plates.

How much boost is it running?

What ECU are you running? 1 side of the injector should have 12V (depending on wiring, both sides might, because standard wiring keeps permanent power to injectors). You should be able to hear the injectors pulsing (click click click...) as you crank the engine.

Yes. The ECU thinks the engine is still cold, and is probably applying a boost cut, because you're not supposed to be thrashing the engine when its cold. The hunting is probably a result of confusion of the ECU because the engine can run quite easily when up to temp, but is being fuelled as if it were cold. It could also be a slightly stuck AAC valve. On the 2-wire plug Jay95R33 described, check for continuity between one of the wires and pin 28 on the ECU.

Check the main switch - it's a common problem with Skylines for the switch to get dirty or something. Strangely, it nearly always is the LH lamp that doesn't work. Sometimes wiggling the switch at the "on" position can make the connection.

Can I suggest that you stick with the standfard viscous clutch assembly that Nissan put on the engine. Unless you want to spend hours investigating air-flows and the like to ensure the radiator still cools the water. I tried it a while ago, and I found that the engine would overheat on a slight incline at 110kph on a coolish (low 20s) day. It's not worth the couple of kw gain to have your engine expire from overheating.

Can I suggest a heat-range 6 plug. And open the gap up a bit (0.8mm seems to be the norm)

Have you been applying heavy braking recently? Sounds like the resin from the brake pads is over-heating and depositing on the rotors. Bendix Ultimates is what I recommend - available thru your local Autobarn.

You can probably just remove the wire / pin from the plug, and insert it into the plug on the other loom. Much safer and neater. Remove the plastic guide around the pins. Then use a small screwdriver, or an opened out paperclip to lever up the retaining clip inside each pin locator slot. Then pull the wire and pin out the back of the plug.

Quadrant Suspensions in Melbourne are the people who build the local Bilsteins, I'd have a chat with them.

Q3 - the engine is simply running like a N/A engine, it's quite normal.

Yes, left the box in the car, otherwise need to figure out how to re-connect and bleed ATTESSA hydraulics. But I would do the "engine and box out the bottom" next time (if there is a next time).From Bl4cK32's description, sounds like its a no-brainer to take it out the bottom.

I did a R32 GTS4 engine swap (RB20DET -> RB25DET), removing the engine out the top. It is an absolute pig of a job. There is very little room to get at anything. I swear, IF I do it again, it all comes out the bottom. In particular, I had problems removing / refitting the starter motor, and I couldn't get one of the top gearbox bolts back in. And I had to remove the alternator, and both engine mounts to get it out. If you have a hoist, then it is probably easier to bring the engine and gearbox as one unit out from underneath (that's the reverse of how it was assembled in the first place)

3 hours!!! Its a half hour job! Remove the cross-over pipe (connecting to the throttle body), remove the valley cover (the bit with "Twin Cam" printed on it). That exposes the coil packs, which you can either remove in their "cradle", or remove individually to expose the spark plugs. Hint - a piece of 3/8" hose fits neatly over the plug (once you've loosened it with the plug spanner) for twirling them in and out of the hole.

Basically, you need to be a member of a CAMS-affiliated car club as a first step. Ring the CAMS office in your state - check out www.cams.com.au

Did you test for spark using the plug in #1? Or did you use a spare plug? Try moving #1 plug to a different cyl and see if the problem follows it. Also, do a compression test (you might have done something nasty like bend a valve while re-aligning the cams and crank).

Its probably best to get the whole panel replaced. Being a relatively new seat, I'm sure the repairer can match the original fabric and colour. Probably cost around $100 (always cheaper to repair than replace). Try Barry at Oz Trim in Ringwood - 9870 2747

YO88O, I'm running a Wolf 3D 4+. I had heard that the ignitor for these engines had been moved into the ECU. So I purchased 2 x 3-channel ignitor modules (I had only purchased an engine, not a front cut). It took my mechanic a full day to work out why we couldn't get spark - the coils held their own ignitors.I figure whatever ECU you get will control the spark correctly.

It could be a CV joint in the RH half-shaft. Try swapping it to LH side, and see if the noise follows. Check them while you have them out.

As a word of advice, you may not need the ignitor module. When I installed a Stagea RB25DET in my GTS4, I discovered that the coli packs themselves have built-in ignitors. You might want to check that out.