blind_elk

Who manufactured the car and the engine? Mr Nissan!!!!

The thermostat is not a sensor, it is simply a device that controls water flow depending on the temperature of the water. The thermo fan relay in the bottom tank of the radiator goes to a relay in the bank beside the RH strut tower. For a water temp gauge (presumably after-market) you need to get a sensor that is compatible with the gauge. You will have to create a place to mount it, but generally near the top radiator hose is ideal (near where Mr Nissan put his sensors).

Try cleaning the AAC valve.

On the back of the inlet manifold, there is a brown plug - that connects to the AAC valve. However, it's more likely to be a mis-aligned throttle position switch (TPS) (black box sitting on the side of the throttle body). It has a switch inside that tells the ECU that the throttle is closed. Sometimes it gets out of alignment and doesn't make the connection, so the ECU thinks the throttle is partly open and adds more fuel. To test it, you need a multi-meter. Remove the plug, and measure the resistance across the top and middle pins. It should be 0. If not, loosen the 2 retaining screws and gently rotate the TPS until you get 0 ohms, then re-tighten the screws. (it often makes the job a bit easier if you crack the throttle open with a 12 thou / 0.3mm feeler)

Where the top radiator hose connects on to the engine, there are 2 plugs - a single wire (temp gauge in the instrument panel) and a 2-wire (temp sensor for the ECU). The thermostat is actually where the bottom radiator hose joins to the engine. The connector in the bottom of the radiator is a thermo switch for the A/C fan, which normally sits out front of the A/C radiator.

I strongly doubt it. For one, the duration on the inlet is, in general, different from the exhaust (generally the exhaust has shorter duration), and in some cases the lift is different. And the Lobe Centre Angles (point of maximum lift) of each cam are different. Then there is the fact that the exhaust cam drives the CAS, and the inlet doesn't have that construct.

Align the TDC mark on the crank pulley with the mark on the timing case. Align the "." on the cam wheel with the "-" on the backing plate. Then everything is aligned.

Pin #16 (orange wire) switches the ECCS / IGN coil relays. White runs from the IGN coil relay output to the IGN coils. The sequence of events appears to be: Ignition switch powers ECCS pin 45. Pin 16 is switched to earth, and switches the ECCS & IGN coil relays. The ECCS relay supplies power to the ECU thru pins 49 & 59 The IGN coil relay supplies power to the coils, thru white wire

Saw a marked police car the other night with them on!!!!! One of these days, I'm going to get out when at traffic lights and asked to dufus behind me "Where's the F****N fog???"

W/P is power to the ECCS &/or IGN coil relays (green ones in behind ECU) W is power out to IGN coils R/B is ignition power to ECU (pin 45) Don't recall what the Brown is for, but might be power to O2 sensor heater.

Who on earth fed you that piece of crap information. The adjustment is for the Idle Air correction, has nothing to do with overall A/F ratios. Its the unit attached to the rear of the inlet manifold. If you look across the engine bay from the driver's side, there is a screw basically inline with the brake master cylinder reservoir. As Roy said, some of the AFMs had an adjustment for AFR.

You could also try some vents in the bonnet to reduce the air pressure inside the engine bay. Have a look at www.autospeed.com for a recent series of articles on sighting air vents and undertrays.

I'm running the stock air box with K&N panel. What I did is remove the standard unduction thing under the LH headlamp. Then got some 3" convoluted hose and simply stuffed it in the residual hole and it hangs down into the gap in the front bar where the air for the (standard) IC is. The airbox will keep any induction noise to a minimum, and you will have a good source of cold air for the engine.

Seems like a waste of a perfectly good 4WD engine. They are hard enough to come by at the best of times , without ppl converting them to RWD only. I just transplanted one into my R32 GTS4, because it's the only upgrade (short of a 26). Why not let some poor soul with a R33 GTS4 use it for his upgrade? You can use any RB25DET in a GTS / GTSt.

What about engine management? What are you planning to do in that department?

Perhaps have a chat with Bill at Australian Precision Engine Parts in Wantirna

I'm pretty sure you are allowed to drive the car to and from a place of repair so that work can be done to correct the "canary" items.

From memory, these are related to power to the ECCS relay. And I'm pretty sure this is the area I was refering to when I said the diagram didn't match the loom, ie the plug is not shown in the wiring diagrams. Drove me crazy when I had the loom out of the car trying to trace wires to wire in a Wolf3D. Best I could do is fax a diagram - PM me with a fax number Just had a look at mine, the W/B and W/P are related to power to the ECCS and IGN coil relays. Pretty certain B/R is primary ignition-switched power to the ECU (= pin 45 on the RB20DET ECU). The ECU actually switches the ECCS and IGN coil relays.

Surely the pinouts will tell you what you want to know. Do you need to know something specific, or you just require the diagrams for reference? And my experience is that the wiring diagram does not match the physical loom.

It's a ways from Werribee, but Andrew at Traction Tyres in Rowville is pretty good.

Never seen one hanging off the -ve. (Why wait until the current has passed through everything before blowing a fuse?)

Come on, someone out there has a R32 GTS4 that they can go out and have a look at the ECU connector. Please?

My reward when I quit was to take a cake to work every 3 months. Also kept me honest with workmates who knew I had quit. Part of my quit process was to cause Melbourne's water crisis - I was drinking water by the gallon! 1 of those sports drink bottles in the office, and 1 for home / car. Congrats on kicking the dreadful habit.

A while ago, another member had a problem re-fitting the assembly into the car. Turned out he had only one side of the car jacked up. If this is the case, you need to jack up BOTH sides together when doing this job. Repeating from previous post, the spring compressors should be removed by the time you get to the point where you want to re-fit the assembly into the car. You also need to pay attention to how the spring and strut top are oriented so you can re-assemble the unit in the correct position. I think you should still be able to rotate the lower eye (takes some leverage) to align everything correctly.

OK, solved the second question. Just need confirmation on the colour coding of the wire.