blind_elk

But if you put a bleed on the manifold pressure line, then you could successsfully raise the fuel pressure. There was an article in Zoom (?, might have been Autospeed) some time ago about just such a device, manufactured by one of the performance shops in Adelaide.

For the diff, use a Castrol or Penrite 80w/90 (or similar) Gear Oil. Ask your local Autobarn or Repco. Frankly, filling the diff is a pig of a job unless you have some sort of gun. Better on the nerves to pay someone to do it for you. Steering - Auto Trans fluid does the trick.

Why are you having to use them under the wheel arch? The whole assembly should come out, remove strut top and remove old springs, insert new springs and re-assemble strut top (release spring compressors), then re-fit assembly.

If you only want the "going round corners" bit, then upgrade the sway bars. Upgrading the springs will affect (reduce) ride comfort as well.

The bottle stuff really only works to maintain the cleanliness of the injectors. You really should get them professionally cleaned first. There are systems around that can clean them "in place" ie you don't need to remove them first. In the bottle stuff, Nulon is very good.

I'm guessing you utilised the main loom between the ECU and engine.

Currently unemployed. Looking for work in IT (Oracle database apps)

That doesn't mean much - I once had a truly blocked fuel filter that would allow the engine to free-rev till the cows come home, yet it was virtually impossible to get the car to move from stationary. Check the available fuel pressure when the problem is happening.

anyone? I think its pin 56, can someone confirm, and tell me the colour code of the wire.

Crook fuel pump? Gets hot after 15 minutes and won't pump properly. Causing detonation by leaning off mixtures.

Just fitted a RB25DET VVT engine (ex Stagea) into my R32 GTS4, and replaced the ECU with a wire-in Wolf 3D 4+. Now the "4WD" light is on. I understand the factory ECU has a connection to the ATTESSA ECU (presumably to tell ATTESSA that engine is running). Does anyone know: 1 which wire? 2 How to I connect it to fool ATTESSA TIA

Centre left of the photo, there's a white wire - I reckon that is part of the loop that you need to hook the timing light's pickup through.

Try here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...g+light+ignitor

They are probably pretty much all the same. I just installed a RB25DET in my 32 GTS4, and the only difference was in the top radiator hose. It's probably best to get the radiator that comes from the same car as the engine - can't go wrong with that. Are you sure it's the radiator? Import engines have a tendency to blow hoses anywhere on the engine, because the Japs don't take care of their engines, and don't use coolant in the cooling system. For your overheating problems, you need to build some sort of undertray to: 1 prevent the air going down in front of the radiator and out under the car 2 draw the air out of the engine bay so that air has to come in through the radiator. You could also re-wire the little thermo out front of the A/C radiator so that it comes on when you activate the A/C - presently, it's probably activating thermostatically.

Because of the potential problem of the "double" timing, I'd take it to a reputable workshop that knows Skylines. It might cost you $10, but what's a rebuild on a detonated engine worth?

A 235 tyre on a 8.5" rim sounds a bit narrow to me (I have 235s on a 7.5" rim, and they fit quite nicely). It could also be the brand / model / style of tyre you have fitted. In the same vein as Castrol Oil, Tyres ain't Tyres! Another factor is tyre pressures. You probably want to be running around 36psi in the front, and maybe 34 psi in the rear - this general configuration is recommended for reducing understeer. At the age of the car - 10 years? - the suspension is probably getting pretty tired. Have a look at www.whiteline.com.au , where they have a complete handling kit to suit the 33. Unless you are seriously after the nth degree of handling, a standard (ie not coil-overs) shock / spring combo will usually suffice for a road car. Hope that helps.

is your friend

RB26DETT cams are a common upgrade for the RB20DET

You really need to put a timing light on it to find out what timing it is running before you / we can tell if it's a timing problem. All the way clockwise retards the spark, I think. Be aware that some timing lights seem to double the apparent timing angle. Each tooth on the cam wheel is 7.5 cam degrees (15 crank degrees). There are 2 marks - one on the backing plate and one on the cam wheel for each cam. These should line up with each other when #1 is at TDC compression stroke.

The water pump on my new RB25DET Stagea engine pooped itself. The 10mm hole is different to the RB30 / RB26 / RB20 pumps. BUT, I got one from Blackburn Nissan (sorry, I think it was their only one!) with a slot that extends over both possible positions. P/N is 21010-21U26

Diff oil = Gearbox oil - maybe Penrite 80w/90 Clutch fluid = brake fluid = any DOT5 fluid - Castrol, Nulon, etc Power steering fluid = Auto Trans Fluid Engine oil - I use Castrol Formua R synthetic, comes in 5w/30 and 10w/60. Others use Mobil 1 or Shell Helix. Spark plugs - do a search - NGK PFR6A-11 (platinums) are the recommended plug, but you can use a copper plug, as long as you use the correct heat range (6) plug, and gap them down to around 0.8mm.

How easy is it to "bounce" the rear end? If you jump on the rear and it keeps bouncing, then the shocks are shot.

...bump...

I have 2 RB20DET heads out in the shed, 1 has "73L 5" , the other has "73L 3". So presumably "73L" is the general designation for a RB20DET head.

AFAIK, the speed signal has no effect on fuelling, it is simply telling the ECU how fast the car is travelling. When the ECU detects that the car is up to a predetermined speed, it starts into a section of its programming to limit the speed by cutting fuel and / or spark.