blind_elk

According to the wiring diagram, wire #53 is a branch off the connection to the HICAS unit. The ECU does not become part of the circuit controlling HICAS. That would explain why, in general, the HICAS is not affected when #53 is cut.

Compressor surge - at 1bar, you have pushed the induction system outside it's optimum operating parameters. The compression of the intake air is what adds heat that will eventually kill an engine. A decent front-mount might help solve the problem, but you really need to get the whole system re-programmed. The "chip" is probably not programmed to efficiently feed the engine at 1bar of boost. Zoom did an article about a year ago - see if you can get hold of a back copy.

Not sure on kms (it was a replacement for one I detonated a piston in), but the car has 160000. I've probably done 30-40 k on it. A 4WD auto (from the RB25DET) is available, but otherwise no gearbox.

Just replaced the RB20 with a 25, so now the 20 is available for sale. It's from a GTS4, but I understand a RB30 sump will fit for a RWD application. Engine is virtually complete, and has all coil packs, a T3/T4 hybrid turbo, new cam belt and water pump in the last few 1000 kms. $1100 WILL NOT SEPARATE ANY BITS.

Don't know why Dayle would say that, I know he just recently got in a R30 hatch. Try Lindsay at Z Shop in Glen Iris. I was down there over the weekend, and he has a big stack of those style of halfshaft.

If it was retarded that far, I doubt the engine would run at all. The marks move from left to right as you look down on them. The first mark is 30BTDC, then 5deg intervals to TDC. Are you sure its not reading 40BTDC? I have actually found that my timing light seems to give DOUBLE the actual reading, might be the case with you, so actual timing is 20BTDC (still a bit too much). To get an accurate reading, lift #1 coil, and insert a plug / coil lead between it and #1 plug, then read the timing in a "conventional" way.

Talk to Dayle at Nispares in Bayswater.

I had a similar problem with my GTS4 - it turned out the connections to the TPS were a bit suss. Make sure they are connected properly, maybe use a bit of contact cleaner on the terminals as well. You should know what a TPS is - its not an item specific to Nissans, Toyotas have them too.

The fuse is in the fuse block down by your right knee. In Japanese, ABS is "ABS". The switch you have for engaging 2WD is not a factory item, so there is no telling what effect it has on the ABS light working or not working.

From your AAC valve, follow the hose back towards the intake pipe. Where it Ts off, follow the hose down into the area under the throttle body and you will find the Air Regulator.

If you are going to put a RB25 in, then get the half-cut. That way, you get a ECU and loom, and aftermarket ECUs like Wolf and Microtech have Plug'n'Play models that are much easier to install.

The engine needs to be running. Disconnect Water Temp sender with engine running, then run diagnostics.

Do you actually have a Nissan ECU, or has it been upgraded with a PFC or similar aftermarket ECU? If that's the case, diagnostics is impossible.

Check and / or replace all the welsh plugs along the sides of the block, because you'll never get them while the head is in place.

There's something wrong with the maths! The most anyone can post is 100% of all posts.

FYI, the Nissan / Winfield GT-Rs ran 9.1:1 C/R and 1.8bar boost. Granted, they would have run forgies and all the other good bits. But it suggests to me that your mate should still be able to get away with 10psi (approx 0.7bar), even at 9:1 C/R .

For a R33 RB25DET: Inlet: Opens @TDC, Closes 60ABDC, Duration 240, Lift 7.80mm Exhaust: Opens 57BBDC, Closes 3ATDC, Duration 240, Lift 7.80mm Overlap = 3 There is all the info up on the Tomei site (can't recall the exact address).

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The only stupid question is the one you don't ask! The reason that factory ECUs need to be reset is that they "learn" ie they start predicting how to run the engine based on how you drive. AFAIK, aftermarket ECUs don't have such a feature - once they are programmed, that's how they run things.

Or some Nulon hydraulic lifter cleaner.

Removing the plug from the knock sensor is similar to opening a bottle of metho - you need to squeeze the plastic cover in the right place to let it release the "catch". Then the connector simply slides off. Your problem is probably that the connector is loose, and making an intermittent connection. (The error is due to a short or disconnection of the wire, not from the fact that the engine has "pinged")

If it is misbehaving at idle, it is a simple procedure to identify the offending coil. While the engine is idling, simply disconnect each coil plug one at a time. If the note of the engine does not change, then that coil or plug or cylinder is at fault. Move the coil to another cylinder, and repeat the test. If the same coil shows no difference, then it is the coil at fault. If it is the same cylinder, then it is a spark plug, or worse the cylinder (pooped piston). If you identify a cylinder as the culprit, you can repeat the test after moving the spark plug to another cylinder. If you identify the coil as the culprit, it is possible to simply clean the dirt and grime off the rubber boot, maybe give it a spray with silicone, and the problem might go away. Often dirty rubber boots provide an easier path to earth than does a spark plug.

You could also try the packs (called "dropping resistors") that were used on any of the early (R30) Skylines. Should be available from wreckers at a relatively small price.

I highly doubt it's the O2 sensor. The sensor only really works on cruise. City driving and heavy-right-foot driving does not lend itself to the O2 sensor playing a particularly useful role in fuel economy.

Same as for any 6-cyl - start in the middle, and work your way out to the ends tightening sequence: 12 8 4 2 6 10 13 11 7 3 1 5 9 14 Undo in reverse order.