blind_elk

How long has it been doing this?

Checked the Davies Craig catalogue (http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Images/Categories/Fan%20Clutch%20Selection%20Guide%202011.pdf). Replacement clutches for Skylines are different model from R31 / VL. According to the catalogue description, a VL / R31 unit shouldn't fit a Skyline RB engine (but maybe Neo is different). Dayco don't appear to make one for the Skyline engines (no x-ref to DC model).

Highly doubtful its vapour lock. Not with 40+psi behind it. Increasing the pressure raises the boiling point of liquids. And the pressure would push any vapourised fuel through the system quick smart.

The ignitor module is prone to problems associated with heat. Try also replacing the fuel filter.

I'm presuming the car is locked. So how do you get the numbers off the car if you can't open it? I think this is a job for a locksmith to visit and fix. Or, if you have NRMA / RACV / etc, I think they can break into the car for you (using something less damaging than a brick ).

Have you searched yellowpages online for engine reconditioners? I've previously used Crankshaft Rebuilders in Blackburn.

It's probable that the engine is trying to start with cold mixtures (fuel rich, due to sensor telling ECU that engine is cold). Replace the temp sensor. In the meantime, if the engine won't start, try with a bit of throttle (lets more air to lean out fuel mixture).

If you can, I would suggest you replace the factory seat with a Recaro ASAP. 2 reasons:1. You get a top seat that will be comfortable, and will hold you in position. 2. If you ever sell the car, remove the Recaro (to fit to the replacement vehicle), and refit a (near) perfect factory seat, which will improve its resale value.

As above, you can't use either thermo sensor from the RB20. And the Z radiator doesn't have the sensor in the bottom of the radiator. The thermo fan should come with a sensor and rheostat. The sensor normally fits in the top radiator hose where it connects to the radiator.

Slave cylinder will be more easily seen from underneath the car. The reason your master is empty is probably that the master is leaking. Generally they leak to inside the car, and will "wet" the floor / carpet directly behind the clutch pedal. But it could also be the slave leaking.

The small one is the clutch master cylinder. As you have seen, it is empty, hence why your clutch isn't too happy about working properly. Get some new brake fluid in it quick smart.

They ordered the wrong rotors. According to the DBA catalogue, R32 GTR 08/89 - 12/94 use the 296mm rotor. Later models had optional Brembos. Just send the rotors back and tell them you need the 296mm rotors (DBA cat 4926)

Could just be that it's newer / fresher.

Yes, clutch uses the same brake fluid as brakes. DOT3 is a specification - so any brake fluid that is DOT3 or better will do the job.

I'm running that ECU on my Stagea-engined R32GTS4. PM me your details and I can email my current map to you.

It will work much better if you RTFM. Start by bleeding the master, then bleed each of the wheels, starting at the longest line in the system. Duncan, you're having a lend of us, right?

What size tyres are fitted? Check the connection onto the TPS.

Sounds just like a broken pedal box.

I once found some splicing terminals at Dick Smiths (IIRC) that basically create a "T" connection onto any given wire. (have a look at the 3M catalogue for "3M Female Disconnects - T-Tap Nylon Insulated Self Stripping" - http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSufSevTsZxtUnY_vM8tSevUqevTSevTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=03_Termnl_KitsTools_v03.pdf)

It's not uncommon to have "spare" plugs hanging off the loom. Quite often, manufacturers design the loom to suit multiple models within the range. Some models don't have the bit that a certain plug on the loom connects to in another model.

What revs / load cause the "chug"? Have you tried replacing the fuel filter?

I don't understand. It would make sense if something didn't work, but you didn't know where to connect the plug. But if everything works when this plug is left unconnected to anything, what exactly is the problem?

A little bit of knowledge - or in the case, no knowledge - is a dangerous thing. The honeycomb is supposed to be there - it's the catalyst that does the job of converting - hence the name "catalytic converter" - the noxious exhaust gases (NOx, SOx, etc) into more environmentally friendly compounds.

I think that circuit is what keeps things like the clock and radio supplied with power to maintain memory, etc. 0.49A is not a big current, and shouldn't "kill" a battery in 3 days. What is possibly killing the battery is that it is being overcharged (an alternator regulator problem). You can check by measuring volts across the battery terminals while the engine is idling and when it is at around 2k revs. Anything above about 14V is not good.

Then try opening the gap. New coils should be able to jump a 1.1 spark gap (assuming no major increases in boost are happening).