blind_elk

A BLOODY BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!!

David, What I mean is that the coils in the diagram are like 6 Bosch ignition coils, which only have a +ve and -ve terminal. Nissan used a different style of coilpack, with 3 terminals - they use an external amplifier to trigger the coil. It's definitely a job for Microtech to sort it out.

Remove the crossover pipe to the throttle body, and there are 3 bolts that hold the rail in position on the side of the head. The rail basically comes out the front, so disconnect anything that is blocking that (you'll see as you do it).

Your components work on your friend's engine, do his components cause the same problems on your engine? What is the fuel pressure? Have you had the injectors cleaned? Check the water temp sensor (disconnect it - does anything change?). Swap it with your friend's. Check the Air Regulator (under the throttle body)

I'm in the process at the moment, although my RB25DET is from a Stagea AWD. The engine set me back $3700 (complete with auto trans! - any one want a AWD auto?), and I'm planning to run a Wolf3Dv4+ ($1600). Then there was a $1G for the lightweight flywheel and clutch setup (which I would have got anyway). The engine didn't come with a coil ignitor module (its apparently built into the ECU), but I managed to source a reco'd one from Petroject ($350). Extra couple of hundred for ancilliary stuff like relays and wiring. I'm hoping to do most of the work myself, just renting space to do the job. So I guess I'm looking at around $6G all up. Plus tuning time (for the Wolf). If you get a half-cut, it might be a bit cheaper, especially for a RWD-only cut. And you get all the electrics you need, ie ECU and loom. RB20DETs aren't worth that much, maybe $1G if everything is attached.

Having a closer look at that diagram, I reckon those are direct-fire coils, not coilpacks. Instead of having a coil that fires into a distributor which then directs the spark to the appropriate plug, these are coils that fire directly to the spark plug, via a plug lead ie no distributor required, but multiple coils required. I'd get back to Microtech and ask them how to solve the problem.

That diagram is for "Direct Fire" mode, which you say you have turned off. Try turning it on.

That's a RB25 one. The R32 doesn't have the purple connector one. It's held on by 4 bolts (10mm head). Simply remove them, remove any hoses and the electrical plug, and the unit comes out. There are 2 phillips head screws that hold the barrel together, remove them and carefully remove the barrel. You'll then see how it all works. Spray with Car-b-clean and clean off, then reassemble and re-fit.

Code 34 means that the knock sensor is disconnected or shorting. It does not indicate that the ECU has detected "knock" and retarded timing to compensate. If it's intermittent performance, then it could be a break in the wire somewhere that makes the connection most of the time, but some condition causes it to lose the connection.

That's maybe a bit high (3.5 bar), most injectors usually run around 38 - 40 psi (2.7 - 2.9 bar).

Not only is the alternator supplying volts to run everything, it is supplying volts to recharge the battery. And with a dead battery, it is supplying HEAPS of volts to try and recharge the battery. The ECU can sense this, and reckons its not a good thing.A new battery could well solve the problem. And changing the battery will effectively cause a ECU reset.

The "tick" might be the VVT solenoid clicking the valve timing in and out, but don't quote me on that one. Have you disassembled and cleaned the AAC valve? Have you checked the "throttle closed" switch in the TPS, although you would normally get a constant high-rev idle if that were causing the problem.

What fuel pressure are you running? You could possibly back off the pressure a bit via the Malpassi. Cheaper than getting more injectors.

Was the car already owned by someone here when you bought it, or did you buy it as an import? I'd have some money on the battery. As the battery starts to die, the ECU starts sensing poor voltage and starts trimming all the performance out of the engine. As a test, after you've taken the car out for a warmup, stop the engine, then restart and see if the performance returns.

Sounds like a broken speedo cable. Visit your friendly wrecker for a new one.

NICS engine had a slightly different head to accommodate variable inlet runner lengths. This is achieved by having 2 inlet ports, one of which had a butterfly to open / close the port. Problem was the butterfly eventually gave up and jammed, so the engine ran like a dog. I believe you can bolt the ECCS head on, but by the time you've done all that, you might as well have spent a few extra $ on a ECCS engine.

Sounds pretty much like compressor surge. The new dump pipe is allowing the engine to exhale lots of gas. As a result, it wants to inhale more air, but the turbo is inefficient at the (higher) boost levels you are running - on low boost, the turbo is still within its efficiency range.

Power is supplied to the coilpak, and the ECU earths the coil thru the ignotor to generate spark. Work out which wire is the power at the coilpak - if you pull the plug off and look into the plug, I think it will be the left-hand of the three pins in the plug. Switch ignition to IGN / ON (not START), then measure voltage to earth (chassis / engine). It should be basically 12V. If it's not 12V, I really have no idea WHERE the relay is located - it will be up to you to go exploring.

I'll take the coil pack igniter. PM me details.

predator, RB30s run dizzies, not CASs. huskyboy, the engine will generally continue to run with a faulty / malfunctioniong sensor. I'd have some money on a faulty coil ignitor module in the distributor.

Have you checked the power supply to the ignitor / coils? Or the relay for the coils? Error 21 is raised when the ignition signal isn't generated. If it was a problem with CAS, it would be error 11.

Have the injectors removed and cleaned.

Klippan in Melbourne 1800 804 588 03 9359 9833

If you get a RB20DET loom and ECU, they will have everything required to run the engine, including working the ignition system. All you need to do is pull out the RB30 ECU and loom, and replace it with the RB20 ECU and loom. I'm guessing the RB20 ECU will mount in the same spot as the RB30's (that's where the RB20 mounts - behind the passenger kick panel).

PM me your email address - I'll see Dayle tomorrow (Monday) and get him to get back to you. Do you need the Series 1 or Series 2 bar? (S1 has a square side indicator behind "short" ends, S2 has a rectangular side indicator above "long" ends)