blind_elk

Check with your local suspension joint - they should be able to get urethane replacement bushes for the R32.

You are probably best off getting a front-cut, where you will get the engine and a loom & ECU. Otherwise, you will require an aftermmarket system. There is no way the R31 ECU will run a RB20 - as you pointed out, the RB20 runs multiple coils (triggered by a CAS), while the RB30 runs a distributor. The RB20 will slot straight in on the R31 mounts.

Boost pressure is leaking past the rings and pressurising the sump. It can be caused by a nasty such as a cracked piston, but it could just be too much boost. I'd get it to a mechanic who knows what he is doing and get a "leakdown" test.

I'm guessing the figures a consistent across the RB engine range. Head - 5 stage tightening: 1: 3 kg-m 2: 11 kg-m 3: back right off 4: 3 kg-m 5: 10.5 - 11.5 kg-m Big Ends - 2 stage tighten: 1: 1.4 - 1.6 kg-m 2: 3.9 - 4.5 kg-m Intake manifold: 1.8 - 2.2 kg-m Exhaust manifold: 2.8 - 3.2 kg-m Oil pan: 0.5 - 0.7 kg-m Hope that helps

Yeah, the regulator RELEASES fuel from the rail, it doesn't control the ENTRY of fuel to the rail.

hippy, I told you what the probable problem was, but Morgs thought I was having a lend of you. If you had done a search of the forums, you would have discovered dozens of threads covering your very problem, all of which would have pointed to the problem of low brake fluid levels. PS - it technically is a "Parking Brake", because its the brake you use when you PARK the car.

You said in your first post that you had fuel! You would still be getting fuel at the injectors, even if the regulator was bung. Are you sure the fuel hoses are connected the right way round on the fuel rail? Can you hear the fuel pump 1) priming for 5 sec after switch to IGN and 2) working during START ? If you disconnect the hose (between the filter and the fuel rail) from the fuel rail, and switch to IGN, does fuel get pumped out? Did you try and start the engine first? The ECU doesn't read a sensor until you do something like "start".

I spoke with him today, said he hasn't heard from U, and I know he checks all his emails.

Make a decision quick. I've got a RB25DET from a Stagea sitting on the floor just busting to jump into the engine bay of my 32.

Everything (just about) is controlled by the ECU. So, there is no click,click,click of injectors while cranking? Try checking voltage at the ECU. In the RB20DE / RB20DET / RB25DE, the injectors are connected to pins 101 / 105 / 103 / 112 / 110 / 114, so I'm guessing the RB25DET is the same. Check for continuity between each injector and its ECU pinout. Have you got any error codes out of the ECU? (reset ECU before trying to crank so you know that the error is "real").

Talk to Dale at Nispares in Melbourne - they have a R30 hatch. [email protected] , 03 9720 6414

RB26DETT ex valve closes 7BTDC (there's 0 overlap). Although it actually depends which RB26DETT you are dealing with. Zensoku quoted for the R32 version. For the R33 (R33 N1): In opens 7BTDC (7BTDC), closes 53ABDC (53ABDC) Ex opens 63BBDC (58BBDC), closes 7BTDC (2BTDC) R34 (and R34 N1): In opens 3BTDC, closes 57ABDC Ex opens 59BBDC, closes 3BTDC RB25DET also depends which RB25: R33: In opens @TDC, closes 60ABDC Ex opens 57BBDC, closes 3ATDC R34: In opens 1ATDC, closes 57ABDC Ex opens 51BBDC, closes 1ATDC

Central Motor Wreckers in Ballarat (Victoria) claim to have "Large range of repairable vehicles". Try them at www.centralmotorwreckers.com.au , [email protected] , (613)53321722 Boss's name is Dean.

I wouldn't expect the age of the gasoline to be a problem - after all, it's still basically gasoline. The other thing to check is the battery voltage while cranking. The ECU requires a minimum of around 7V to spark it into life. If the cranking voltage falls below this level, then there's no ECU to make anything work. Also, reset the ECU to clear the errors before deciding if there really is an error.

The purpose of the O2 sensor is to enable the ECU to maintain a stoichiometric A/F ratio (14.7:1). Unfortunately it is a reactive system ie the ECU has to see the AFR go off stoichiometric before it will make any adjustment to the fuelling. The reason it fluctuates so rapidly is that the voltage output of the O2 sensor changes rapidly around the stoichiometric centre, and less rapidly further away from stoichiometric centre (the shape of the curve is similar to a heartbeat on a heart monitor). If your O2 sensor is saying 0V at idle, it might be that the AFC is programmed not to monitor AFR at idle. At cruise (and it can really only work at constant throttle settings), the O2 sensor voltage will fluctuate between 0V and 1V as the ECU attempts to adjust the fuelling to achieve stoichiometric AFR. What your O2 sensor is doing seems to be exactly what its supposed to do.

If you only have 6.5V at the injector, then its likely you only have 6.5V at the ECU. 6.5V is not enough to inspire the ECU. Try a jumper battery to get a bit of juice happening. The injectors earth back through the ECU (ECU pulls to earth).

Anyone out there with a R33 GTS4 AUTO, can you tell me what the diff ratio is. Would the diff be strong enough to handle a RB25DET?

R33 RB25DET cams are the same duration and lift as the RB20DET - R34s have less duration and bigger lift. The difference is in the LCA (Lobe Center Angles) which determine the overlap at TDC. RB20DET cams are more advanced than the RB25DET and have slightly more overlap. You could achieve the same results with an adjustable cam wheel.

It is possible to set the CAS up without the key in the camshaft side - I've had the same problem for a year or so now. If you look carefully into the recess where the key should be, you should be able to see where it has broken off. Just imagine that the key is still there, then imagine how the CAS mates, and assemble the CAS in place.

Have you got the connectors on the right way round? There are 2 TPSs - a Trotlle Position SWITCH, which normally tells the ECU that the throttle is closed or WOT, and a Throttle Position SENSOR, which tells the ECU where how far the throttle is open.

What is the laptop / handcontroller showing when this happens? It might be the ignitor module - they can apparently be susceptible to heat. Next time it happens, detach the module and stick it in the freezer for a few minutes, then reconnect it. 185rwkw eh? Is this what I can look forward to with my RB25DET / 3Dv4+ upgrade on my GTS4 then?

I believe most dealers can get the parts for you - U just need to quote the VIN. I use Garry Rogers in Glen Waverley, but they are usually "10 days ex-Japan". You could try Dale over at Nispares in Bayswater 9720 6414.

How much for the ignitor module?

In Melbourne. From an R34 Stagea, so it is an AWD version, complete with flywheel and torque converter. It was attached to the RB25DET upgrade that I got for my GTS4. It's surplus to requirements, so I'm trying to find a buyer. $500

Check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder. Also check that all the brake lights are working.