blind_elk

Was the thrust bearing replaced? How does the height of the new clutch assembly compare to the original?

All that will do is make the pedal sit lower. I think you need to make the adjustment at the thrust fork pivot - in the bell housing, which means "remove gearbox". If the "grab point" is too high, I think it indicates that the clutch plate is wearing out. It will need replacing soon.

In Melbourne. Nissan L20ET 2 litre 6 cyl SOHC EFI Turbo. Upgraded with RB20DET BB core turbo and dump pipe. Complete with Wolf 3D v3 management system, loom, hand controller. HD clutch. RB20DET intercooler (requires pipework to fit your application), and Malpassi rising-rate fuel pressure regulator. Would suit a R30 Skyline, but can obviously be made to fit anything. $1000 ono

If the engine is "flooded", you need to try and start with the "pedal to the metal" - this is to allow as much air as possible in to help ignite the fuel. DO NOT pump the throttle - that only adds "acceleration" fuel, and worsens the situation. If the CAS was crook, you would not have spark. I have been running the standard FPR in my 32 with a Bosch pump, and no problems encountered for nearly 2 years. Can you hear the injectors working when trying to start the engine? You are probably going to have to pull the injectors, so arrange to get them cleaned while they are out.

Well then, on a GT-R (any GT-R), the fronts and rears should be the same size and same offset, and the tyres should be the same size. You can go as big in diameter as the tyres you can afford, and I believe you can get up to 10" wide under the guards.

Same offset as what? A Kenworth truck? Morris 850 Mini? What are we supposed to compare the offset to?As to the second Q, NFI, as I have been unable to decipher exactly what the question is!

Yes, I'd have to agree - a brake cylinder brace. It's purpose is to stop the master cylinder moving forwards during heavy brake applications.

It has always enthralled my that everyone, myself included, replaces the section of exhaust behind the cat, leaving the massively restrictive lump of cast iron attached to the turbo outlet. Surely it would be more advantageous to replace the dump pipe (the lump of cast iron) with something that would allow the exhaust gasses to get away from the turbine faster. Surely that is a better performance enhancer that letting the gasses free-flow from halfway down the exhaust tract.

Have you ever swapped the tyres from one side to the other when doing a tyre rotation? For advice, try Traction Tyres in Rowville.

Surely one of the distibutors has to be competent at tuning them. Check in Zoom, or check with Wolf (www.wolfems.com.au) for a list of distributors in Sydney.

Firstly, you need to define what the problem is and why you think new rotors will solve the problem. Maybe all you really need is a decent set of pads, or maybe a change of brake fluid.

Check the fusable link hanging directly off the battery +ve hasn't pooped itself.

The air filter is the same panel as a Commodore. Oil Filter, I think, is the same as the R31 (Ryco 145A). Fuel filter is the same as some other Nissan (can't recall which one, but easily obtainable thru Autobarn, etc). Thermostat is the same as a VL Turbo (even comes in a nice "Nissan" box) When all else fails, your friendly Nissan dealer can get any part you require, as long as you can quote the VIN at him.

$185 @ Advan (as per latest HPI, p11)

PM sent.

No marks on the camshafts?

I'm becoming "surplus to requirements" tonight, so I'm also in the market. Skills in Oracle, and I know enough Unix to get everyone into trouble!

Any Nissan dealer, and therefore any of the import wreckers, should be able to obtain the real McCoy.

Coincidentally, the very latest HPI (arrived in last night's mail) has a bit of a discussion on the various Nissan cam designs. The specs can be found on Tomei's website at www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html A slight adjustment to Merli's explanation - the difference between the max lift of the inlet and exhaust lobes is often referred to as LSA (Lobe Separation Angle), because there is also another LCA (Lobe Centreline Angle), which is the point (in crankshaft degrees) of maximum lift of the lobe, and is generally the midpoint of the duration. LSA is half the difference in LCAs. Julian Edgar's "21st Century Performance" has a good explanation of all the terms in camshaft design (despite him getting it wrong about the duration and Ex-close values for a RB26DETT).

I believe it's called a "fusible link". As you have found out, Nissan stuck it there for a reason. If you are concerned about the condition of the wires, then you will need to replace the unit.

If the battery is struggling a bit, then the figures will be lower than expected.

Generally run the front tyres about 2 psi higher than the rears - helps reduce understeer. I think 38 is going a bit overboard, mayge 36 front, 34 rear. (that's cold pressure)

To the best of my knowledge, a faulty O2 sensor won't kill an engine - the ECU will simply ignore it, and run rich. When were the injectors last removed and cleaned? Have you tried swapping over the ignitor module for a known good one? (although I think it's an unlikely source of the problem)

I don't believe there should be any difference. I have a RB25DET CAS running my RB20DET. After all, it's simply a device to tell the ECU where each of the 360 degrees are, and that there are 6 reference points (1 for each cylinder). As long as it's for a 6 cyl, then it should work.

Kinchrome (sp?) are not bad. I think Autobarn have sets of spanners, etc, at relatively low prices. Then, obviously, Sidchrome, but they can be exxy.