blind_elk

Not having a RB26DETT, I can't say for sure, but if you look at either end (more likely the front end) of the throttle shaft that should run between the throttle bodies, you should find a small black box, about the size of a pack of 15 cigs. AFAIK, they aren't serviceable.

Have you cleaned the AAC valve? Have you cleaned out around the throttle butterfly?

I also have one (with screens removed). And I'm probably just around the corner from you (also in GW). I can let it go for $100.

I've got one sitting in the garage. It comprises: Block, minus rods and pistons (can possibly recover, but definitely needs new pistons) Head Inlet manifold Exhaust manifold. Problem would be getting it to Adelaide.

There's probably the best part of a day to set it all up. Why, what's wrong with yours? Have you soldered all the terminals onto the loom? I recall there were some errors in the destructions that had the wrong wire for the water temp sensor, I think it was. Have you asked Wolf what might be wrong?

www.efihardware.com

Is the fuel pump working while the engine is cranking - disconnect the fuel "in" line from the fuel rail and crank the engine (make sure you've got something to catch the fuel in). Alternatively, set the ignition to "on" and then apply battery voltage to the starter solenoid terminal - that should simply crank the engine, and if everything else is OK, the engine should fire.

Is the steering wheel centred properly at "straight ahead"? If it's off-centre, then that will certainly upset the HICAS system. If it's got problems, take it back and tell them to set it right.

It's a simple on-off switch. When the brake pedal is "up", there should be 12V on one side of the switch. When the pedal is "down", there should be 12V on BOTH sides.

There is possibly a fuse in the block under the steering wheel (don't know 33s that well). The globes are "twin filament" type - one filament is the tail / park, and the other is the brake. It's possible for one filament to blow and not affect the workings of the other filament. The fact that your hi-level brake doesn't work as well suggests a fuse. Or the switch on the brake pedal has been disconnected / broken.

Could be interested - I'm planning an upgrade with a Stagea RD25DET into my R32 GTS4 pretty soon, so it'll need a good IC. where are u located?

It can be a fuse - the brake lights and tail / park lights are on two separate circuits. Unlikely that all four would go at the same time, but you've checked that the globes are still OK?

The DBA website has all the specs for the rotors. If you're going to fit new rotors, get the slotted type.

Have you checked the hose that connects to the wastegate for something like a split. A split hose is likely to act like a bleed-off valve, and the higher the boost you put in, the wider the split becomes, and the more boost it bleeds off.

My RB20 turbo has a 6-bolt flange holding the exhaust housing to the core. Loosen those bolts, the housing can rotate in relation to the core, then tighten the bolts again. Obviously the RB30 turbo isn't constructed the same as the RB20 turbo.

If that were the case, then 90% of all cars on the roads would be defected - who hasn't replaced the system the manufacturer fitted because it fell to pieces?

1:40 am Saturday (well that's when Steve was woken)

Steve, NIZ The RB20 turbo is the same orientation as the RB25. NIZ, you might be able to rotate the exhaust housing to suit, but it may interfere with the actuation of the wastegate.

You can get hold of full 3" dump / front pipe units for around $250. If you care to wait a couple of weeks, I will have a cast dump available after I have a 3" unit made up for my RB20DET.

I get the same movement in my 32 - I think its a sign that the fuel sender is wearing out. I find it never reads LESS than whats in the tank, so if the gauge says EMPTY, then its empty - the warning light comes on anyway. I'm getting around 400k around town and 550 - 600 highway. Never had the vapour problem you describe, but then I never looked for it.

EFI Hardware (aka Speed Technology) in Mitcham was broken into overnight. If anyone is offered a cheap Wolf 3D, please advise police. TX

I may well be rebuilding my RB20DET engine soon. Can anyone say for sure if the pistons from a RB20E will more or less drop straight in. I'm interested in them because they have a higher C/R (9.5 vs 8.5), so should get a bit better performance off-boost, while still being able to pump 1 bar.

Brake pads are readily available from Bendix and others - same as (Oz) GTR / 300ZX - DB1170 front, DB1220 rear. Air filters are same as earlier (R30 / R31) Skylines, or Commodore. Oil filters are same as earlier Skylines. Thermostat - I bought one for a VL-Turbo for my RB20DET. Even came in a nice Nissan box. Any other parts, Nissan dealer can get them in from Japan - usually about 2 weeks delivery. Worst case, you can try any of the numerous import wreckers.

Talk to Ivan at The Race Place in Seaford - www.raceplace.com.au

All the O2 sensor is is a ceramic material that alters its output voltage depending on how much O2 is in the exhaust gas. It has a rapid change in output around the stoichiometric point (AFR = 14.7:1). They all have a range of 0 - 1V, AFAIK.