blind_elk

It takes a 10mm (?) hex key. There is a genuine Nissan tool that has the 1/2" square drive and the 10mm hex. You might get an equivalent from Repco, or even Autobarn and the likes.

There are 48 teeth on the cam wheel. That means each tooth is 7.5 degrees of cam, or 15 degrees of crank. Now, when using adjustable cams (I can't remember whether the adjustment is "degrees of cam" or "degrees of crank"), but the usual adjustment is around 4 degrees. So, 1 tooth is at least twice the recommended adjustment. When fixing it, use a texta to mark the belt and wheel, slip the cam wheel off the camshaft, move the camwheel 1 tooth on the belt (move the 2 marks 1 tooth apart), then slip the camwheel back onto the camshaft (you need to turn the camshaft or the crank slightly to realign the locating dowel).

Joke, Joyce. If it needs explaining, then it's too subtle for you. Never put "exactly 5 litres", even with filter change. But then I've got a differential taking up some space in my RB20DET's sump.

offset is: backspace - (width / 2) backspace is the distance from the rim to the surface that mounts against the hub.

depends how many are missing. An empty sump requires around 4.5 litres.

Oops, free travel only from city to circuit. If you're coming from anywhere else, then you require a normal MetCard ticket.(As the person at Yarra Trams pointed out, I would already have a ticket, because I've caught the train into the city in the first place.)

Speed Technology in Melbourne - 03 9873 5400 www.efihardware.com [email protected]

You don't really need timing belt and water pump, unless they are due for replacement. They don't have to come off to get the head off. You'll probably need manifold gaskets. While the head is off, check the condition of the welsh plugs, and replace if necessary (Repco have them). Lots of bandaids for skinned knuckles !!

www.meggala.com has a wiring diagram you can download

Did you compare the height of the new pressure plate compared to your old one? I would suggest it is not as tall as the one it replaced. It's possible you need a new thrust bearing carrier to give a bit of extra length to allow the thrust bearing to fully disengage the clutch. Unfortunately, that's a "remove gearbox" job.

You can all stop looking now. I've found one, but I don't need one. Check out the "That'll teach me..." thread in Maintenance section.

I've got a thread in the WTB section for a pedal box for the clutch in my R32. I thought the box had broken. Then tonight, while I was pulling it out, I realised that what had really happened was the pivot pin that locates the clutch master pushrod onto the pedal had fallen out. And the reason it fell out - the split pin was missing. And the reason the split pin was missing - I didn't put it in the last time the pedal box broke. That'l teach me! :thumbdwn:

try www.meggala.com/partcss.htm for a wiring diagram of the RB20

Yeah, well when I get a replacement, I'm going to get it seam welded before I fit it. And I might get this one and the previous one rebuilt with full seam welds.

300ZX. Pad is a DB1170.

Stock clutch. The box itself (the metal thing that supports the pedal) is made of relatively light sheet steel, and is held together with a couple of spot-welds. The welds eventually give way under the continued stress of applying the clutch. I don't think it will have any bearing on you fitting the heavy clutch - that will be more of a problem for the master and slave cylinders.

Bugga, really only need the box.

The 2nd one is for the fuel pump and fuel gauge sender in the fuel tank. The cover plate gives you access to the top of the fuel tank to remove the pump & sender unit. If you can see the ground through that one, then someone has stolen your fuel tank.

I think you can buy the disks directly from DBA, otherwise check their website for Dealers. I run Bendix Ultimates. DB1170 front, DB1220 rear. The Konis you can get from TopPerformance in Vermont. Or you could try Traction Tyres in Rowville, where you could also get the king springs.

Neil, Is the clutch pedal attached to the pedal box, coz mine just crapped itself tonight. Let me know how much (incl postage to Melb) Thanks

God, I hate that car sometimes. Bloody pedal box (2nd one I've had) just crapped itself. It's for a R32 GTSt/GTS4. Anyone got a half cut they don't need to clutch pedal box out of?

You've got compression? You haven't been playing with camshafts, and moved them? You can hear the injectors working? You've got the fuel lines on the right way round?? ALL the induction hoses are on?

Trams are free to GP ticket holders

It's 1-2 km - easy walking distance. There is a bus service (Skybus?) into the city, then No 8 Tram will get you there (drops at Punt / Toorak). I think the bus drops at Spencer St station, so might need a tram (any Burke St) up to Swanston St - ask at Spencer St. Sorry, can't help you with eats. PS Come and say hello at the Shannons Show'n'Shine, near Turn 10 (Ask for Greg)

Get it to a workshop, and get them to do a "leakdown" test. That will indicate what sort of damage has been done.