blind_elk

Sounds like time for a new / rebuilt engine. I would hazard a guess that 1 or more pistons have been damaged somehow, and the oil smell you are getting is from 'blow-by' (as the piston comes up on compression stroke, the air/fuel mixture escapes past the rings and pressurises the sump). How are the spark plugs? Are they also covered in oil? Your description suggests that #6 cam journal is running dry - that suggests problems with the oil pump.

I've heard they are not a true Plug'n'Play - you still need to replace some sensors with ones specifically for the Wolf.

The grooves were already machined into the ones I got for my 32 (from Quadrant in Berwick). Otherwise, there's nowhere to sit the spring base.

As long as you haven't been caning the engine just prior to wanting to turn the engine off, then you don't need to have the engine continuing to run.The danger of turbo timers is that they may keep a fuel pump running after a collision, and pump fuel all over the place from a ruptured fuel line. A bit of common sense to back off during the last kilometre or so of your trip will negate any requiremernt for a TT. The Shell Sierras, at Sandown, only ever did a slowish lap of the circuit after a race / practice, then would pull into the pits and switch off the engine.

I recently purchased Bridgy GIIIs in that size. The recommended rim width is 7.5 - 9.0 . So the Falkens would be similar. My rims are 7.5s, and the tyres look just right on them. But, yeah, the tyres should be within spec on a 9. Can't help you with an alignment place out west, since I'm out east.

I had a plan to rebuild the RB20DET out of my R32 GTS4, using O/S pistons, and maybe even getting RB20E pistons (C/R = 9.5). Full balance on the crank / rods / pistons. Port and polish on the head. I'm guestimating $5000 all up. Then thought about a RB25DET. Initial pricing is $3500 for a Stagea half-cut auto. I was also thinking about lightened flywheel and H/D clutch, so the fact it's an auto isn't a worry. So, wich way would you go?

You will generally need some relatively nasty petrochemicals to soak the injectors in. And all the U/S baths I have ever seen also have connections to operate the injector mechanisms at high frequency.

One of two things: 1. Broke the centre out of the clutch's driven plate. 2. Broke the input shaft to the gearbox. Junkie, you still haven't made it very clear what went on prior to you getting no drive from the gearbox. If you were caning it, then we need to know stuff like that before we can make a diagnosis. It's like going to the doctor and simply saying "I feel crook in the guts". Doc can't very well diagnose what is causing it with a statement like that.

with or without gravy? :headspin:

Save your time checking the O2 sensor - it really only works on cruise, not when you are accellerating / boosting.

You can get someone to come to you.

Two things to look out for: 1. You have to set up a system that forces the air to go thru the radiator. Otherwise, the air simply passes out underneath the car and the engine overheats. 2. You need to re-wire the small fan out front of the A/C radiator. This is a thermo fan, and only comes on when the engine gets too hot. Without cooling air (normally provided by the standard clutch fan), the A/C gas over pressurises, and it sounds like a BOV going off. IMHO, the power gains (couple of kW) are not worth the headaches.

I would have thought you get a block with pistons etc - a "short" motor. Then you stick a head, all the manifolds, etc on that. If you have to go to the expense of new rings, bearings, etc, then you will probably end up paying more than if you just bought a whole replacement engine.

The rear end is adjustable for camber and toe. It would appear that the rear is stock, but has been adjusted for max (-ve) camber. The front is only adjustable for toe. The numbers suggest a camber kit has been fitted. The easy way to tell is the check all the bushes. From the factory, they are rubber; aftermarket is polyurethane in different colours (Whiteline's are usually yellow, others are dark blue, some others red).

You need to be mindful of the allowable modifications in each event. I would expect the best bang for your buck will be the RB25DET upgrade. But you'll need the ECU as well. More low-down torque from the increased capacity, just as much up top. The RB24, as well as the cost of the build, will require a re-program of the R32 ECU, or an aftermarket job. The RB26DETT is just too expensive for the purpose (more serious motorsport might justify it)

Don't think John's quite reached the big eight O yet (from memory he's something like 72 or 73). He used to race bikes mmaannnyyyy years ago, and he still has a bit of the style - so funny watching him through a fast right-hander with his head hanging out the driver's window as he leans into the corner. Only a few years ago, John was the club's rookie champion lol John's Tank Museum is in Narre Warren North. He's currently looking for a buyer for the business. Got some great stuff there. Big mother V6 Detroit diesels that are flat out at 2000 rpm, and make the most magnificent noise. The Tassie tour is this weekend, and I'm in "Big Kev" mode about it; that's why I haven't mentioned being at the Island - bit hard to just pop back for the day.

I hope you mean 10mm (about 1/2") - 10cm is around 4"

I'd check again. ALL hoses. The ECU is getting confused by a Throttle Position that doesn't match the (lack of) air coming through the AFM. The hose may not have popped off, but it possibly isn't sitting in place properly. Also, check you haven't disturbed the CAS connector.

31s, I believe, run something like a +25 offset on their standard rims, and it's usual to decrease the offset as the wheel gets wider. So fitting a wider rim would require perhaps +15 offset, certainly not a +35. It's likely the rims you're interested in are 17x7s with a 225 tyre.

The one most likely to fit is the R34 dash, because the R34 is actually slightly smaller than the R33, but not as small as the R32.

All 3 have a GT-R model. R32 & R33 have the GTSt models, R34 has the GTT. The R32 & R33 (all models) have 2 pairs of equal sized round tail lights. In the R34, the inner tail lights are smaller (like a bloody Ferrari!). The main difference between the GT-R and the GTs is that the guards around the wheel arches are "pumped up" on the GT-R. It will be obvious when you see a GT-R and a GT side by side.

I had a similar phenomenon when returning from Brisbane last Easter - cost me a $150 fine when I had to accellerate to 96 k (in 80 highway zone) to get past this total incompetant who couldn't drive at more than 70 k when there was only one lane each way, yet found the confidence to travel at 80k when he had an extra lane available.

What did the sparky do? Take it back to basics - what are the reasons an engine won't start? 1. No fuel. Are you sure the fuel pump is working? Working at 'switch to ON' (priming)? Working during cranking? Are the injectors opening? 2. No spark. Are you sure the coilpacks are firing? Are the sparkplugs OK? Is the CAS connected properly and sending a signal to the ECU? 3. No compression. Is the engine cranking evenly? 4. Worst case - you haven't broken the cambelt?

If no spark, try a new ignitor module (little black box at the rear part of the cam covers).

Whiteline adjustable castor bushes - KCA332, for R32 GT-R. $50