blind_elk

What a load of crock! Unless you've got seriously leaking injectors, the fuel can only go back to the tank once you shut down the ECU (by not cranking the engine). In the short time it takes to try to start the engine, the engine can easily swallow the small amount of fuel that the injectors will allow into the cylinders. Sure, if you don't run the engine for long enough, the battery doesn't get fully recharged, so it might be more difficult to start next time; but as for flooding.....pffft! If you fit a pressure gauge in the fuel line, after you shut down the engine, the fuel pressure will be near 0 in about 1.5 hours. The fuel manages to leak back past the non-return valve in the pump. Some of those RACV dudes are real di(kheads. I once helped out a couple of young people whose car (old Hillman Hunter, I recall) wouldn't start. They said the RACV guy reckoned they had a crook battery, yet it spun the engine like a beauty. I pulled the distributor cap, and noticed it had virtually no points gap. I set it by eye, they cranked the engine and it sprang to life - di(khead RACV people.

You're a brave man, Snowman, picking The Island for your first excursion. It is damn fast. Take it easy, you don't want to end up in Tassie after you come off Turn 1 at high speed. FYI, they will run 12 cars (3 lots of 4) on the track at a time.

My experience has been that when the battery has totally died, and you need to jump start it, you need to have the 'jumper' connected to the 'jumpee' and engine idling for several minutes. The 'jumpee' battery needs at least some charge in it. Also, the ECU needs something like 7V to activate itself. Cranking on a low battery will reduce the voltage available to the ECU to below the threshhold, and so the ECU will not activate, and if it isn't activated, it can't tell the coils to fire. And don't forget, most cars have the battery up front, so there's not that much cable between the battery and the starter. The 33 has to get volts all the way up to the front from the boot. If you can, connect the+ve jumper cable directly to the +ve of the starter motor, and the -ve directly to the engine block. Alternatively, go and buy a new battery, and you'll avoid the "melted starter cables" syndrome.

I haven't read all the posts, so what I am about to say may have already been said. Anyway, I got some new tyres recently. On the manufacturer's info sheet, it stated that load indexes for the Z-speed-rated versons of the particular tyre model were for information purposes only. I am reading into that that Z-speed-rated tyres do not really have a load index, and therefore as long as you have a Z-speed-rated tyre, then that is sufficient. Once again, we have a case of people who are neither trained nor qualified in the determination of the roadworthiness of a motor vehicle making decisions on whether or not a vehicle is or is not roadworthy. But then someone has to do it, I suppose.

The pedal height shouldn't have changed at all. There is an adjustabale "stop" on the pedal box that controls the pedal height - maybe whoever installed the clutch adjusted the pedal height.

My experience has been: 1. The gearbox input shaft has to be perfectly square-on to the spigot bush. 2. The splines on the input shaft need to be aligned with the splines in the clutch plate. I once spent about 2 hours under a car (it was up on ramps), with 2 jacks trying to get the gearbox square-on. About to give up, but gave it 1 more try - and home it went.

"dats 7" is a legitimate plate in Victoria (like mine - "gtst 4") "V32SPEC" is probably a custom plate made for showing the car. In SA, apparently you can have 7 letters now - someone has a 33 registered "SKYLINE"

Is this while being driven, or just free-revving? If the former, I'd check the ignition timing.

The Whitelines are probably Kings anyways. There aren't that many spring manufacturers in Australia. I have the Kings in my GTS4, but I also have Bilstein dampers, so it's hard to tell which contributes more to the stiffness of ride.

I'm not sure about the GTSt, but my GTS4 (and the GT-R) certainly doesn't have upper ball joints. It has upper control arms, and the bushes eventually wear out, giving too much camber, and unstable control during driving. As for the rear - they are tie-rod ends - could be knackered. They are mechanical parts that don't live forever. Take it over to Traction in Rowville for an honest appraisal of what's wrong.

Yes, it's on right now. Last day is Feb 1.

If anyone is interested, Autobarn in Glen Waverley is closing next Sunday. Currently offering 25% off all stock.

It's supposed to rev high when cold (but maybe 2k is a bit high).The AAC should only be adjusted when the engine is up to operating temp, and you need to disconnect the electric plug first (otherwise the ECU will just keep making adjustments, countering your adjustment). If it still revs high, check the position of the TPS, that it is closing properly and sending the 'closed throttle' signal to the ECU.

Using a thicker head gasket sort of defeats the purpose. I don't intend to run more than 1 bar of boost (famous last words), so I'm confident the RB20E (9.5 C/R) piston could easily handle it. And I'll be getting the ECU reprogrammed to suit. So, can anyone supply me with a RB20E piston, or at least the full specs (like pin height, pin-to-crown, etc) so I can work out if it will easily fit.

There, you see, there's another piece of mis-information that I've picked up.

Warpspeed, he's talking about a R32 GTS4 (with the RB20DET engine), not a wannabe-a-GTR R33 GTS4 (with the RB25DE engine). Now, down to business. Firstly, I'm totally confused by this transplant, which I have considered myself. Some people say 'just get a 25DET', others say the sumps are different. The engine mounts are the same. I believe the 25 uses a bigger clutch assembly and the bell housing is larger to accommodate it, but the bolt pattern is the same as the RB20DET. And many people appear to be using RB20 g/boxes behind the RB25. The dump pipes are the same. Features on the GTS4 are basically the same as a GTSt (P/Steer, P/mirrors, HICAS, A/C), ABS appears to be standard (optional on the GTSt), and of course ATTESSA 4WD system (as on its big brother, Godzilla).

You've just forked out probably more than 20,000 hard earned sponduliks for your ride, and you reckon $250 is too much for a workshop manual. I would think some mechanics would charge you that much just to cast a curious sideways glance at you car. I suppose you want to use cheap tools on it, too. If you want to take care of it yourself, spend some money on a workshop manual.

Sincerest thoughts go out to David's family and friends. No-one deserves that end. And I heard 2 amazing pieces of news this morning: 1. This thug was out on bail for a similar attack. So, he's on bail for assault, and he's still working in a job that would permit him to commit further assaults. WTF! 2. Police are not going to upgrade the charges (presumably to manslaughter)

And then you'd do something nasty!

Go see Canterbury Tyre Mart, see if the have any 15s off the Sillouhette. They're around $450 a set, from memory.

I think he's means the AAC (Auxilliary Air Control) valve - sits on the back of the plenum chamber.

Most of the plugs can be replaced with the head off. The Nissan engine designers, in their infinite wisdom, chose to hide one behind the LH engine mount, and another one behind an elbow attached to the thermostat housing. And there was another one, in an impossible-to-get-at place, but I can't remember where. My secret to removing them is to gently punch them (off centre) until they spin in the hole, then grab with vice-grips to pull them out. Repco carry the right sizes (22mm and 30mm from memory).

I find myself in general agreement with ph1, and others. I've just been looking for insurance, and incidents like this are the reason most often given for the high cost. Ypoung kids get hold of high performance cars, then crash them and write them off. So the rest of us have to pay. There are no accidents - there are consequences of bad decisions. The kid gunned it round a corner. What do you expect might happen. And this being the second car he's written off - I think hemust have a death wish. That said, it's always encouraging that only his pride was injured.

Have a chat with Bill at Aust Precision Engine Parts in Wantirna - 9887 1299. He might be able to help you.

Don't think so, but have been known to be wrong before. Check out latest edition of HPI (GT-R Special #4), and issue #36 - there's stuff in there about a dog-box from Adealide, rated for '800ps +'; will set you back around 9 big ones.