blind_elk

I've got a RB20DET block sitting in the garage. I intend to have it rebuilt, with full blue-print / balance. I would like a bit of extra performance, but I'm not prepared to go as far as forged pistons. In the RB series, there is a RB20E (C/R = 9.5), RB20DE (C/R = 10.2), and RB20DET (C/R = 8.5). All the engines are the same bore/stroke, so presumably the pistons are interchangeable. Would it be possible to simply use a piston from a RB20E to change the C/R of my new engine, so I get a bit better off-boost performance? TIA

My 1989 GTS4 has ABS (so, it's at least an option, may not be standard).$12,500 sounds a pretty good price, but the auto is a waste of time (sports cars don't have autos, IMHO)

Had the lower lip of mine repared a while ago, after it broke in 2. Cost $100. Try McCorriston Cruising Yachts (aka GP Sports Cars) in Bayswater - 9738 1588

New locking mechanism required.

So, it's an auto? What mods?

If the police have the rego, they can track the owner through Vicroads. I think RACV could also do the same. (My bank was able to find out stuff about the car from Vicroads when I borrowed money on a secured loan.) But, it's probably stolen. If you have comprehensive insurance, I believe RACV are obliged to repair your car, regardless. It's then their problem to recover costs.

Plugs should be the same. The 4WD computer is a separate unit (hides under the rear parcel shelf). Operation is hydraulic, from a reservoir in the RH boot. Keeping the air out of the ATTESSA system will probably be your biggest problem.

This is a GTS4 (4WD GTSt, like a GT-R)? Or is it simply a 4-door GTS?

I always thought that if it's at an intersection, the pedestrian actually has right-of-way. So you can't just run over him. But then, according to the rule book, that only applies when they are crossing the road you are turning into. There's nothing about the road you are currently on. Still, a bit of common sense would let the pedestrian cross if you have already stopped for the idiot. After all, another of the rules states that the pedestrain must not remain on the road for more time than is necessary; and if the 2 of you can't make up your minds who is going first, then you are assisting the pedestrian break that rule.

You will need to remove the inlet manifold from the head - and you need to 'split' it. You will need to remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold. You won't need to remove the cams from the head, but you may need to remove a cam wheel to slip the cambelt. The important torque settings are the head bolts: Stage 1 - 3 kg-m Stage 2 - 11 kg-m Stage 3 - loosen completely Stage 4 - 3 kg-m Stage 5 - 11 +/- 0.5 kg-m Inlet manifold - 1.8 - 2.2 kg-m

Not sure an alarm is such a useful accessory - had some little junkie sit inside the car and remove the radio; all the time, the alarm siren must have been having a fit, of course, no-one paid the slightest attention, but then it was at a rail station.

Tracks - Sandown (2 clubs I'm associated with have driver training days each year). Lots of events at Phillip Island (1.5 hrs from Blackburn (south)) and Winton (2.5 hrs from Blackburn (north)). Then there's Morwell Hillclimb (1.5 hrs from Blackburn (east)). If you want access to these tracks, I'd recommend Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club (I'm the secretary, so I'm a bit biased). Cops are OK if you behave yourself (been followed by cops, they never bothered me, despite the GT-R wing on the back, because I didn't do anything stupid).

You should be getting more power in 2WD mode than in 4WD mode. 139 @ 4 wheels sounds about right when compared to 175 @ 2 wheels. (My GTS4 runs 115 and 145). Dodgy cat install could well be creating too much back pressure, which will adversely affect power. If you want more power, check out the latest HPI (GT-R special edition #4) for some cheap yet effective power enhancements.

Factory turbo? Or 'upgrade'?

If the pedal is basically parking itself near the floor, it's likely the pedal-box has broken.

Roy, I had a similar problem with my GTS4 understeering, despite having stock front bar and HD GT-R rear bar. It, like yours, has been lowered. It turns out that a probable contributing cause was the front suspension riding the bump stops. In that case the front spring rate goes from maybe 200 lb springs to near infinite rating once it hits the bump stops. Fitting smaller / thinner bump stops seems to have contributed to it getting back the "power-on oversteer" handling my car is reportedly renowned for. Also not helped by the Whiteline camber kit had worn, and cranked in 3.5 -ve camber. New kit - new handling.

Idealseat Co 131 Chesterville Rd Moorabbin 9555 7788 might be able to help you.

Traction Tyres - Rowville (Melb) are the local distributors. Call Andrew on 03 9764 2811. (whistla, he's only in Albury - Melb is closer than Syd)

Tried Just Cars. $951 premium ($10k agreed value, which is only the cost of the car, not the value), $1150 XS (which I don't plan to call on, haven't for over 20 years), and $1850 !!! theft XS. Torque would do it for $992 Waiting on Shannons to get back to me. Still looking.

My Skyline comes off it's novated lease soon, so I'm looking for insurance (currently 'owned' by my employer). Contacted RACV (can get 'sister company' staff discount). All was going swimmingly, until they asked about mods. So I was up front, it has 17" rims - RACV says "don't care about diameter, how wide?" 7.5 . "Oh dear, can't be wider than 6.5 " (based on Silhouette, which it isn't). How bloody stupid - wider wheel means it has better rubber which holds the road better which reduces the risk of crashing, and they say it's not acceptable. Bloody insurance companies :blast:

1. major reinforcement of the floor pan - so it doesn't 'break its back' and end up looking like a big banana. 2. probably does (but I've a 32, so I can't be sure) 3. You're leaving beautiful Wyong! (how's the High School going?)

15 is the factory spec, but some timing lights seem to double the figure, so you need to show 30 for it to be correct. Safest way is to insert a standard plug lead between the coil and spark plug on #1 and time it the old fashioned way.

You mean 1 that Nissan actually sold in Oz? Not a 'grey' import R32? If so, the tail lights are different from the original Jap model. I know of 1 or 2 in Melb (for photos).

Try an oil change in the gearbox. The oil might be getting too thin, or too low level, to stop the gears rotating when you disconnect the 'box from the engine. As for the idle, clean the AAC valve, clean inside the throttle body around the throttle butterfly, check for air leaks in the induction plumbing.

You have to be extremely careful spraying water around the engine bay - there are so many electrical connections for the water to get into and start the corrosion process. Once that happens, the car starts running like crap.