blind_elk

No you don't.Take the radiator to Natrad or other radiator service joint. They should be able to clean the cores, or provide you with a new core.

Your problem may well lie somewhere here. 7s are possibly too cold, try some 6s.

19.62 litres is not "half a tank". (when I went to school, half of 65 was 32.5, not 19.6). You have been previously told that the gauge is useless for indicating an exact amount of fuel in the tank. I've actually had my low fuel light on when the gauge said full, or half, or two thirds, because the gauge is worn and what it indicates varies enormously. Although it never seems to indicate less fuel than is available. YOU HAVE TO FILL THE TANK! That is the only point at which you know the exact fuel level. Add some fuel then drive around until the low fuel light comes on doesn't mean anything. What the fuel gauge says isn't worth much of a cracker in this exercise. And you need to zero/reset the trip meter. So, you FILL THE TANK and reset the trip meter, drive around for a while, then FILL THE TANK. Note the litres required to FILL THE TANK, and divide that number into (kms on the trip meter x 100). Reset the trip meter again.

Check the fusible links.

Have you cleaned out the carby?

You could "cut" the nut off using a cold chisel.

Yes it's 65L capacity, but that doesn't mean every time you fill it you have added 65L! The fuel gauge is indicative only, means absolutely diddly squat as a measuring device. Get the "litres added" from the petrol pump display. = 18.6 litres @ 15.5l/100km. Actually what you are saying is not clear. You have to do the distance BEFORE you add the fuel. Then you can accurately calculate fuel economy. As above, do not rely on the fuel gauge to tell you exactly how much fuel has been used or how much remains in the tank. Only the petrol pump can tell you how much fuel goes into the tank AFTER you have done some kms. The only accurate part of the gauge appears to be the "low fuel" warning lamp, which will come on at around 10-15 litres remaining (exact turn on point appears to differ car to car). 30 seconds is all the idle from startup that is required. That's basically long enough to put on your seat belt and select a gear. You can save 25 of those by buckling up before you even start the engine. Extended idling from cold start wastes fuel and increases damage to the engine. Just be sensible about driving a cold engine - limit revs to 3k, maybe 4k, STAY OFF BOOST. Of course it's raising fuel consumption. The jerking is because the fuel is not being burned properly, and you are spitting raw fuel out the exhaust. (and last time I considered it, WOT amounted to "flogging it") Unless you have an aftermarket ECU, you can't tune R33 ECUs.

Get the injectors cleaned. Clean the AFM. Clean the AAC valve. New spark plugs. New fuel filter. New fuel. Check inlet plumbing all connected properly.

You bedded the pads in?

Faulty (dead) pressure sender? Did you teflon tape the sender screw thread?

$75 @ $1.51 is only 49.7 litres. Over 300km, that equates to 16.5l/100km (approx 6km/l). On 65 litres tank capacity, you should get a bee's dick over 400km on a tank.

The only way you can determine fuel economy is to refill the fuel tank and note the litres used. Just saying "the tank is empty" means nothing. City driving and short trips will adversely affect fuel economy. A dead temp sensor won't help either.

RB25DE / RB25DET are the same plug, as far as I can determine (BKR5EIX-11). If the engine is misfiring, then you are putting uneven stresses on the internals - some cylinders get full explosion for power, some get no explosion for power, some get a reduced exploision. Can't be good for the big ends and gudgeons.

Are the shock absorbers in good condition?

What happens if you swap the wheels F<->R?

How many times do we have to answer this Q? There is a push-switch adjacent to the h/lamp switch, that is there for driving lights (if fitted), but also turn on parkers / tails.

Try getting the injectors cleaned.

Update Wrote to Terry Mulder (Minister for Roads), who passed it on to Vicroads. A response came back stating that the company had "acted responsibly" to investigate the matter internally, and stated that the driver "has a good driving record". Nothing about any disciplinary action the company might have taken. And because I had reported the incident to police, it would be "inappropriate for further investigations by Vicroads". What a load of do nothing bureaucratic twaddle. The police aren't going to do anything (although I will be talking to them again to ask why not). I too have a (pretty) good driving record. My last fine was for 58k down Flinders St on a Sunday afternoon (heaven forbid) 6 years ago, and the last serious crash I was involved in - well I can't remember, but it must be close on 30 years (a couple of minors about 6-7 years ago, where I was basically stationary). Yet, despite this record, if I was to do 58k down Flinders St again, I would be nailed - no "oh you've got a good driving record, we won't do anything this time". No sir! Straight up "hand over $135 (or what ever it's been jacked up to recently)". It would seem that it's ok for a 70T truck to tailgate a 1.5T car. And if that level of intimidation doesn't get results, said 70T truck is permitted to attempt to crush said 1.5T car between the truck and a set of concrete blocks. Not in my world! The powers that be might talk the talk on road safety, but have no f$#@!n idea about walkin' the walk.

The ignitor module is prone to heat failure.

No pics, sorry (it has been over 10 years since I swapped them out for Kings!). Anyway, checked free lengths for reference - rears (I think) = 330mm, fronts = 350mm

Have a set of lowered springs that came out of my R32 GTS4. The springs have not been cut, they are the same rate as factory, just they have been lowered by resetting the height. Will probably also fit GTS(t). $100 + postage.

TRS brand race harness, 4-point, detachable. Complete with eyelets. $70 + postage.

It would mean more to them if you had a "petition".

No, more likely doesn't like the 7 heat range. And the miss over 6k will more likely be the gap.You can close the gap down on your Bosch plugs to eliminate the miss.

Find a new mechanic - any mechanic worth his salt should be able to give the car a rudimentary alignment so that the car is half driveable. I doubt anything has been damaged, but then again ... You should be more concerned about undue wear on your tyres. But if you haven't been caning the car, then the tyres should be pretty much ok.