blind_elk

Well, it's back on. But, I'll let _turtle_ tell you all about it.

Thought of another one on the way home - the top mount is in place, so the shock is as high as possible.

Told U it was a stupid question!

OK, stupid question time! Are you changing all four corners, or just the fronts? In which case, you're not trying to fit the rears on the front? (I know 32s, the fronts and rears are waaayyy different, and can't be confused, but not so sure about 33s) Otherwise, I'm "legless blind_elk" (still no-eyed deer)

Just having a look at the 'gap' photo - are you certain these are for your 33? When I was playing with the shocks in my 32, there was like 1/2" (1" max) misalignment between shock and mount, not 2"! And the eye usually only goes on 1 way (it has a taper that matches the taper on the mounting pin) - well, it does on 32s.

Take the spring compressors off. Get a long bar (as I said previously, sledge hammer handle seems ideal (hammer head towards you), but axe handle, crowbar would work) and lever the control arm down - lever between sway bar and chassis rail. 5 minute job. Think Bl4ck32, that's pushing the arm in the wrong direction, turtle needs more room, not less.

Use a long handle screwdriver as a 'stethoscope' to listen to the injectors opening and closing (blade on the injector body, handle against you ear - or ear against the handle, which ever works best for U) Have you swapped the coils to other cylinders? Are they sparking the plugs ie connect plug to coil to test for spark. Compression OK?

No, it doesn't. Fits a GTS4, but not a GTSt.

Usually depends on the tyre. I have 235s on my (17 x) 7.5s, and they fit OK. I've seen tyre specs that suggest that 7.5 is optimal for a 225. But I think you would be pushing to (properly) fit a 245 on a 7.5", let alone a 255

Look at it this way - if it doesn't show you what timing it is actually applying, how the fu(k do you set it? (you can't get out there with a timing light when you're cruising down the Hume at 110 kph, now, can you??)

For the RB20DET and RB25DET, are the dump pipes the same, or are there subtle differences between them?

Same as any other ECU does - it has tables of data built in, which tell it what ignition timing should be based on certain inputs like load (MAP or AFM), throttle, engine temp, rpm.The PFC will be displaying the actual timing it is running. The figure will vary slightly at idle because the inputs will be varying slightly, and the PFC will be calculating a 'best-fit' result between the values it has in its tables and what is actually occurring. eg the engine is probably idling at 700, but the PFC only has values for 500 and 1000, so it guesses what the probable value is for 700.

Optimal power = optimal economy, because the engine is running at its most efficient. Therefore, base timing should be the same, ie 15 BTDC.

You might need to lever the lower control arm down to meet the eye of the shocker - sledge hammer handle between the chassis rail and the swaybar seem ideal for the purpose.

I did a trip last Easter Melb - Bris - Syd - Melb - Adel - Melb. At times, I could only get PULP. I ran some Nulon OB as well, as a safety precaution. But I would think that under general highway cruise you shouldn't be loading the engine so much that you could induce knock. These things run like 40 deg advance on cruise, I believe.

Bilsteins are Bilsteins - AFAIK, they don't come in different 'comfort settings' (although you might be able to have them custom valved). Shocks are there to control the springs. The springs are what supports the car, and what gives comfort (or lack of it) in the ride. It could be that the standard springs will be too soft for the Bilsteins. I have Kings in my R32 GTS4, rated around 280 lb - Quadrant here in Melbourne recommend something like 430 lb springs for their Bilsteins to suit a R32 GT-R. If you want cornering, you fit sway-bars. I got a set for the GTS4 for around $1k, so the price you have been quoted sounds about right.

An 'old school' trick to undo the crank pulley bolt: use a breaker bar, and if necessary a piece of pipe to make it long enough to reach the chassis rail, then crank the engine.

Have you checked the CAS and the base ignition timing? Have you checked / cleaned the AAC valve?

Yes, but not OK to have different tread patterns on the same axle.

Go to the DBA site (www.dba.com.au), and check out the specs in the catalogue. Main problem with this upgrade is that you have 4 stud wheels, and GTSts have 5 studs.

Go to the DBA site (www.dba.com.au) - has a full catalogue, and lists places you can get their products. Autospeed's on-line shop has 4000 series rotors for the R33 (DBA4963) @ $264 each.

crank pulley bolt should be 27mm.

You don't necessarily require wheel slip for the ATTESSA system to engage 4WD. There are also lateral and longitudinal G-sensors, that detect how hard you are accellerating or cornering, and tell the ATTESSA ECU to engage 4WD accordingly.

As far as cruise control is concerned, the cruise control module has a cable connected to the other wheel on the throttle. As well as the "set", "resume", etc buttons, it also has switches attached to the clutch (in a manual) and the brake. So if you brake or change gears during cruise control mode, the cruise control is instantaneously disengaged, and the throttle is released.

No one thought it might have something to do with the HICAS? I have the same switch in my 32, but I don't have cruise control. But I do have HICAS, and part of the HICAS diagnostic involves using the clutch.