blind_elk

The torque spec is only about 1 kg/m (that's slightly more than finger-tight), so unless you have a torque wrench for it, I'd leave it to a pro.I still reckon it should not have even been taken home until they put it back together. (same as taking your car in for new tyres, and they just hand you back a rim with new tyre and tell you to fit it yourself - it's just not on (pardon the pun)).

try www.jpnz.co.nz, they have an engine manual that covers several of the RB engines.

I would think if you sent it to them in one piece, the least they could do is give it back in one piece. Tell 'em to put it back together. (or you'll see them in court)

Just playing Devil's Advocate, but you could have just as easily parked in the short term park, walked over to the terminal, found the person and walked back with them. I would guess that's something like the argument they'll present if it ever got further than just a ticket.

If your battery went flat, normally the siren goes onto the backup battery and starts making noises (I've had it happen when the battery was a bit low, but would still start the car - siren started screaming during cranking). Try inserting a relay into the starter trigger wire, so it supplies full battery power to the solenoid switch.

Then why bother getting a GT-R?Only if you remove the front prop shaft (from transfer case to front diff). Pulling the fuse puts the car into limp-home mode (on 33s).

I think this is them: Narva P/No. 47286BL (12V 1.2W T-5mm)

I think I walked into my local Autobarn and grabbed a packed off the shelf.

Globes for the clock are a standard sort of globe (very thin version of those 'slide-in' types - in indicators, etc). You just have to pull the instrument cluster out to get at them.

For anyone interested, Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club (NDSOC) will be holding their annual Concourse at Southbank (near Esso) this Sunday (Nov 30) from around 9am. Everything from early Prince Skylines thru Zs to modern Nissan sports cars. And a 350Z ragtop, courtesy of Nissan Australia. All welcome to come and say hello. (I'll be at the club's trailer, with my trusty R30 hatch)

The police admitted it might be giving wrong readings "up to seven months". And the reaction of the woman - she became a nervous wreck, and a worse driver after receiving the notice. How is this "safety" if you take motorists eyes off the road and onto the speedo? That's why I haven't seen the radio / CD that some little thug extracted from my car recently, but I've got a speeding fine.

in today's Drive (The Age): http://www.drive.com.au/news/article.asp?a...FX3X2JNDMD.html

from the same edition Bloody car, must have a mind of its own- to veer off the road by itself

The government, in their money-grabbing wisdom (sorry, safety-oriented wisdom), decreed that it you would now only be permitted a 3% or 3kph (whichever was the greater) variance in the speed before being pinged and forced to make a contribution to the state's consolidated revenue.

If you have a bleed valve, then it's quite likely that you could be running 13psi boost.

Just noticed the forum shows me as 'ido09s' ie in the "welcome back..." and messages headers. But my PM area still shows messages for me. This is not the first time I have noticed that the incorrect name is shown.

OK, just to prove my limited knowledge of electronics, it suddenly dawned on me last night while continuing to ponder the problem, that it doesn't matter that the warning alarm (low volume, turn it off or else) continues to sound - you ain't gonna hear it over the main siren that cuts in 4 seconds later. So I hooked up the main siren, and it works - even from deep inside a Holproof Explorer sock, it works! INASNT, the little turd didn't want the car, he only wanted the radio, to sell for drugs, probably. nismoR34 - yeah, tried Jaycar, but they weren't much help, other than being able to confirm that the components seemed to be OK. You get a copy of the review with the kit - it explains how it works, and how to put all the pieces in the right places.

INASNT, I had a real alarm, and the little turd simply ignored it while he lifted the radio / CD. This is tha Jaycar Screacher, which sets off the siren INSIDE the car (2kHz @ 110dB). And from personal experience, you don't want to be within earshot of this little beastie for to long.

What I described is the universal that looks like a big +. If it doesn't look like a big +, then you'll have to ask someone else.

If they are anything like the older (240Z, etc) unis, then there is a circlip on the inside face of the yoke to hold the end-caps in place. Remove the circlips (punch with a smallish screwdriver, or, better, a proper pin-punch), then you can drift the whole uni / end-cap in one direction to remove the opposite cap. Then drift the uni back the opposite direction to remove the first cap. Repeat for the other pair of end-caps. When re-assembling, make sure the uni is in the cap, and GENTLY drift the cap into place.

Yes, I've done that. It seems a capacitor is not fully discharging or a transistor is not switching (or is already switched). I don't have the gear to properly check the components (only a multi-meter). And I don't have sufficient knowledge of electronics to fully understand how it's all supposed to work.

Just built the Jaycar Screacher II alarm for my GTS4 (the one broken into last week), but it doesn't seem to be working correctly (warning buzzer keeps buzzing). Any gurus out there who can test the componentry and maybe check my construction of the kit? PM me if you can help. TIA

R31 rims (Ti, Silhouette, etc) fit. I'm running 15" R30 Ti mags - similar to R31 Silhouettes - on my hatch. I also have a set of Impul 15s, that came off a 200SX (I believe).

That's Ms 99 to you, thanks No, haven't done it with tint, but have done it with some competition numbers I put on the doors.

What about using a hair dryer on HOT to soften the film and adhesive.