blind_elk

OK, just to prove my limited knowledge of electronics, it suddenly dawned on me last night while continuing to ponder the problem, that it doesn't matter that the warning alarm (low volume, turn it off or else) continues to sound - you ain't gonna hear it over the main siren that cuts in 4 seconds later. So I hooked up the main siren, and it works - even from deep inside a Holproof Explorer sock, it works! INASNT, the little turd didn't want the car, he only wanted the radio, to sell for drugs, probably. nismoR34 - yeah, tried Jaycar, but they weren't much help, other than being able to confirm that the components seemed to be OK. You get a copy of the review with the kit - it explains how it works, and how to put all the pieces in the right places.

INASNT, I had a real alarm, and the little turd simply ignored it while he lifted the radio / CD. This is tha Jaycar Screacher, which sets off the siren INSIDE the car (2kHz @ 110dB). And from personal experience, you don't want to be within earshot of this little beastie for to long.

What I described is the universal that looks like a big +. If it doesn't look like a big +, then you'll have to ask someone else.

If they are anything like the older (240Z, etc) unis, then there is a circlip on the inside face of the yoke to hold the end-caps in place. Remove the circlips (punch with a smallish screwdriver, or, better, a proper pin-punch), then you can drift the whole uni / end-cap in one direction to remove the opposite cap. Then drift the uni back the opposite direction to remove the first cap. Repeat for the other pair of end-caps. When re-assembling, make sure the uni is in the cap, and GENTLY drift the cap into place.

Yes, I've done that. It seems a capacitor is not fully discharging or a transistor is not switching (or is already switched). I don't have the gear to properly check the components (only a multi-meter). And I don't have sufficient knowledge of electronics to fully understand how it's all supposed to work.

Just built the Jaycar Screacher II alarm for my GTS4 (the one broken into last week), but it doesn't seem to be working correctly (warning buzzer keeps buzzing). Any gurus out there who can test the componentry and maybe check my construction of the kit? PM me if you can help. TIA

R31 rims (Ti, Silhouette, etc) fit. I'm running 15" R30 Ti mags - similar to R31 Silhouettes - on my hatch. I also have a set of Impul 15s, that came off a 200SX (I believe).

That's Ms 99 to you, thanks No, haven't done it with tint, but have done it with some competition numbers I put on the doors.

What about using a hair dryer on HOT to soften the film and adhesive.

Yesterday, some spaced-out junky scum-sucking turd forced the drivers door lock, and broke into my car parked at Holmesglen station, and stole the CD/radio unit. Broke the surround around the radio / aircon. Totally ignored the alarm going off. (the Jaycar unit is going in this weekend!) If I get my hands on the low-life, I'm going to tar-and feather him, then hang draw and quarter him, Then I'll get nasty. Anyone gets offered a cheap Pioneer DEH-1150 radio / CD, bash the crap out of the little sh1t for me. TIA

The igniter modules sometimes develop problems and break down when they get a bit hot.

Well, in hindsight, that happened to me, although it was simply a case of 'pedal to floor' under light braking. It was at Winton, just after I had got the car. I presumed at the time it was because the brakes had overheated. But it has NEVER happened since. Even on the racetrack.

Apparently the method for using ABS is simply keep the foot buried on the pedal and let the ABS do the work for you. I guess that's because that's what the average d1ckhead motorist does in a panic stop - bury the foot. Maybe that's why Frosty had a problem - he tried to outsmart the ABS. But it certainly takes some getting used to if you have learned to threshold brake.

predator, ABS was an option, I think (my GTS4 certainly has it). Frosty, how did ABS nearly kill you? As I said, I've got ABS, but I think I've only ever activated it twice in the 4 years I 've had the car. Probably because I learned threshold braking many years ago, so I control the lockup point of the brakes. I would suggest it's not a good idea to remove the ABS - you don't know what effect it will then have on brake performance.

Daalder Exhaust in Box Hill can supply and fit them.

Have you got possums or similar? Something really stupid - a fly or mozzie trapped in the car?

Yes, I'd suggest it's the dodgy battery. Every time I disconnect the battery on my car, I have to turn the siren off. And if I have a problem starting, the low battery will also cause the siren to sound.

Sway bars (actually "anti-roll" bars) stiffen the suspension to prevent weight transfer to the outside wheels during cornering. The beauty of them is that they don't affect the straightline ride comfort, which you would get by fitting heavier shocks / springs to achieve the same result. You should invest in the nolathane bushes - it will reduce the compliance of the suspension, ie the suspension is less likely to change dynamically from its static settings. But they won't contribute noticably to ride (dis)comfort. It's generally pretty complex subject. I would suggest you invest a few dollars in some books (1 by Fred Puhl is pretty good at explaining the physics, but gets technical when showing how to calculate all the variables).

The wheel retailers should know. I got a chart from ROH, but I've yet to work out how to read it.

If it's plastic hose (as distinct from rubber hose) simply immerse the end in hot water (to soften the plastic) before slipping it onto the T.

The design is so that you can have a different key for the boot, and safely leave your car somewhere without the the sphincter of the universes having access to what's in the boot via the remote release.

Your local Autobarn can get the Bendix Ultimates in for you. DB1220, from memory.

Sounds like a leak (break, pin-hole, etc) in the line between the manifold and the gauges. Must be a hill around somewhere for you to gun it in 2nd to test the boost reading.

GT-Rs are perhaps best described as "intelligent" 4WD. Subarus, Lancers, and the like are basically FWD that also feed (constant) drive to the rear wheels. GT-Rs on the other hand are RWD, and feed some drive to the front wheels when the system detects a need to do so. Not simply when (rear) wheel slip is detected, but also when cornering forces indicate a need for some FWD.

Pretty certain they will. I know someone who sprints a 260Z, and I'm pretty sure he only runs 15s, but has 300ZX calipers (same as R32).