blind_elk

Yesterday, some spaced-out junky scum-sucking turd forced the drivers door lock, and broke into my car parked at Holmesglen station, and stole the CD/radio unit. Broke the surround around the radio / aircon. Totally ignored the alarm going off. (the Jaycar unit is going in this weekend!) If I get my hands on the low-life, I'm going to tar-and feather him, then hang draw and quarter him, Then I'll get nasty. Anyone gets offered a cheap Pioneer DEH-1150 radio / CD, bash the crap out of the little sh1t for me. TIA

The igniter modules sometimes develop problems and break down when they get a bit hot.

Well, in hindsight, that happened to me, although it was simply a case of 'pedal to floor' under light braking. It was at Winton, just after I had got the car. I presumed at the time it was because the brakes had overheated. But it has NEVER happened since. Even on the racetrack.

Apparently the method for using ABS is simply keep the foot buried on the pedal and let the ABS do the work for you. I guess that's because that's what the average d1ckhead motorist does in a panic stop - bury the foot. Maybe that's why Frosty had a problem - he tried to outsmart the ABS. But it certainly takes some getting used to if you have learned to threshold brake.

predator, ABS was an option, I think (my GTS4 certainly has it). Frosty, how did ABS nearly kill you? As I said, I've got ABS, but I think I've only ever activated it twice in the 4 years I 've had the car. Probably because I learned threshold braking many years ago, so I control the lockup point of the brakes. I would suggest it's not a good idea to remove the ABS - you don't know what effect it will then have on brake performance.

Daalder Exhaust in Box Hill can supply and fit them.

Have you got possums or similar? Something really stupid - a fly or mozzie trapped in the car?

Yes, I'd suggest it's the dodgy battery. Every time I disconnect the battery on my car, I have to turn the siren off. And if I have a problem starting, the low battery will also cause the siren to sound.

Sway bars (actually "anti-roll" bars) stiffen the suspension to prevent weight transfer to the outside wheels during cornering. The beauty of them is that they don't affect the straightline ride comfort, which you would get by fitting heavier shocks / springs to achieve the same result. You should invest in the nolathane bushes - it will reduce the compliance of the suspension, ie the suspension is less likely to change dynamically from its static settings. But they won't contribute noticably to ride (dis)comfort. It's generally pretty complex subject. I would suggest you invest a few dollars in some books (1 by Fred Puhl is pretty good at explaining the physics, but gets technical when showing how to calculate all the variables).

The wheel retailers should know. I got a chart from ROH, but I've yet to work out how to read it.

If it's plastic hose (as distinct from rubber hose) simply immerse the end in hot water (to soften the plastic) before slipping it onto the T.

The design is so that you can have a different key for the boot, and safely leave your car somewhere without the the sphincter of the universes having access to what's in the boot via the remote release.

Your local Autobarn can get the Bendix Ultimates in for you. DB1220, from memory.

Sounds like a leak (break, pin-hole, etc) in the line between the manifold and the gauges. Must be a hill around somewhere for you to gun it in 2nd to test the boost reading.

GT-Rs are perhaps best described as "intelligent" 4WD. Subarus, Lancers, and the like are basically FWD that also feed (constant) drive to the rear wheels. GT-Rs on the other hand are RWD, and feed some drive to the front wheels when the system detects a need to do so. Not simply when (rear) wheel slip is detected, but also when cornering forces indicate a need for some FWD.

Pretty certain they will. I know someone who sprints a 260Z, and I'm pretty sure he only runs 15s, but has 300ZX calipers (same as R32).

I believe the factory wheels have +38mm offset. I understand you need to reduce the offset as you go wider in the rim.

JT, The CAS only sets the base timing (timing at idle). It has a little wheel inside that has 360 little slots in it so the ECU knows exactly where the crank is, and some other varying size slots to tell the ECU which cylinder is coming up. With this info, and info like temp and load (from AFM), the ECU then calculates the correct ignition timing. You need a timing light to set the (base) timing. I would suggest you go to a mechanic who has a good quality timing light and knows about these cars to get them to check and set the base timing. They use an inductor loop off the igniter module to trigger the timing light. Some cheap timing lights get an incorrect signal and go off prematurely.

Well, I finally found the cause of my cold-run problems. The CAS is being driven only by the splines (the key has broken from inside the cam), but the splines on the CAS are quite worn, its running retarded spark - like 3-5 deg BTDC @ idle - even when set to max advance. Anyone got a CAS for a RB20DET, in good condition. TIA

Doesn't NSW have it for heavy transports? The goivernment and police still have not answered the question - how does taking a photo of you speeding contribute in the slightest to saving you from yourself?

Is the slide "understeer" or "oversteer"?

I would suggest it's the sender. Disconnect the wire from the sender and see what happens to the gauge. Then try earthing the wire. (had a similar problem in my R30 - oil pressure without the engine running, just with key in 'ON' position)

Since most of the braking is done by the front, it's not as important to get top performance pads for the rears. Bendix Ultimates would be more than adequate, Autobarn and the like should be able to get some for you.

As per topic, anyone (pref Melb) wrecking a R32, I need the passenger seat belt assembly.

NCCA is more rally oriented. NDSOC's web site is currently having a major revamp. We hope to have it up and running soon.