blind_elk

If I found the right one, Autospeed shop has them (DBA4909 - slotted only) for $271 each. You'll get free delivery to your door. You probably won't do much better than that. AFAIK, all R32 GTS4s are turbos, with 5-stud rims (mine certainly is). R33s are all N/A.

Any good exhaust shop should have extractors. You can't fit a pod, because the filter box also contains the AFM. KYB make a cartridge insert for the fronts, and I would imagine they also make a replacement for the rears (Pedders / Monroe have rears as well). To fit a RB20DET, all you need is the X-member from a R31, and the engine bolts straight in.

I think Microtech got it all screwed up. Pin 30 is (nearly always) +12V 85 / 85a are the 2 pins oriented at right angles to Pin 30 (assuming a standard Bosch 5-pin relay here). These are outputs. Pins 86 / 87 are parallel to Pin 30, and they do the switching so that Pin 30 connects power to 85 / 85a. Thus: ......._ ....I.._..I ........I .........85 ....86 85a 87 .........30 (Ignore the dots, just so that the spacing comes out right) So 30 = +12V 87 => MT8 86 <= ignition power 85 => pump

board.performanceforums.com, a general purpose forum.

The Nissan part# is 22690-73L11. The Ford EL is a 4-wire sensor. Check your local Ford dealer.

I have a Recaro in my GTS4. I had a Stratos for a little while (while the Recaro was being adapted to a Brides base) - it wasn't too bad, but it showed its age. With the Recaro, you can sit a bit lower in the car because the cushion is firmer. It gives much better lateral support, and it gives much better support under the thighs and behind the knees. It's not until you go back the the factory seat that you realise how good the Recaro really is. The advantage is that you get to keep the seat if you sell the car, and the car gets sold with a near perfect (factory) seat.

I need a set of 6 for my proposed engine rebuild. I've just found that 4 out of 5 have gone 'oval' (the 6th had already fallen apart, hence the rebuild). Where can I get some? TIA

I've only got about 3 degrees, and my wheels rub on the guard liners (that plastic thing inside the guards) at full lock.

I asked this question some time ago (April), and asked for a spare set of hoses to use as a template for a mob in Geelong (Maltech), and even proposed a group buy, but no-one was interested then. The lines (front only, ADR7-00 approved) were going to set me back around $440 the pair.

That's distinct from the ones at the front??

According to Bendix FAQs: "Brakes should operate with a minimal amount of noise. Some noise is normal, but excessive squeal, screech, grinding, groaning or banging means that your brakes need attention. Using the wrong formulation for your driving style can also cause noise in your brakes due to excessive heat" email them at [email protected] to find out more.

There's not double lines for the approach to the intersection, is there?

I had a similar problem in my GTS4 - turned out to be one of the connections onto the TPS wasn't made properly. I had ridiculous symptoms like 35kg-m torque to the front wheels while reversing out the driveway!

Thats what mine appeared to be doing. And the torque split guage did ridiculous things like 35 kg-m in reverse backing out the drive! And when turning, the front appeared to have locked the diff.

You can also access the diagnostics via the "consult" port, located behind the fuse box under the RH dash. On a 33, I think you need to short the 2 pins in the bottom LH of the port, but someone with a 33 might like to challenge that. (on a 32, its the 2 pins in the top RH of the port) The "check engine" light on the dashboard flashes the codes.

Not specifically. But I have had problems where a loose plug on the TPS played silly buggers with the differentials and the torque-split gauge.

Throttle Position Switch (or Sensor). Sits on the side of the throttle body. Tells the ECU how much throttle you have applied, or if the throttle is 'closed'.

on the other end! You have to remove the ECU to access the diagnostics.

Maybe it was a mis-print.

Ign ON - 3.0 kg/cm2 Idle - 2.5 kg/cm2 pressure reg hose removed - 3.0 kg/cm2 (approximate figures)

An air-air intercooler cannot possibly reduce the charge air temp below ambient. Otherwise the charge air would start drawing heat from the ambient air because it is at a lower temp - simple thermodynamics. So the absolute best you could expect the IC to achieve is ambient temperature of the charge air. And because no air-air IC is 100% efficient, that is impossible to achieve. My 2c (physics and chemistry)

There is slip at the rear, relative to the front wheels (the fronts are stationary). That's why you have to disable the front drive of a GT-R on a RWD dyno.

The 'rule-of-thumb' is around 30%. EVOIV, the G-Tech is supposed to be remarkably accurate. But it has to be set up properly. I had a run up on AVO's DTS dyno. This dyno is supposedly capable of calculating fwkw from rwkw. My R32 GTS4 (RB20DET 4WD) ran: 115 4wkw 145 rwkw 175 fwkw (calculated from rwkw) Do the calculations of loss yourselves.

In addition to what Bleach1 suggested, you should also try increasing the revs while checking the battery voltage. It should stay at roughly the same voltage. If it increases the more you rev the engine, then the regulator is stuffed. That allows the battery to overcharge, and it eventually gets to the point where it can't hold the charge. You will most likely need a new battery, and you may need a new alternator.

Standard rims are +38