blind_elk

It's probably a fault in the sender (getting old). It's jamming when you have a full tank, and the weight of the float can't unstick it until around 1/2 tank or so. Mine actually seems to manufacture fuel - I'll be driving along on say 1/2 tank, next thing I know I've got a full tank, then 3/4 tank.

There are 2, under the inlet manifold, near #2 and #5 cylinder positions. It may only be a broken wire. Or not plugged in.

There are 2 of them, located on the block, under the inlet manifold, at round about cyl#2 and cyl#5 positions. Have fun getting at them.

Just out of interest, I contacted the company, and expressed you guys apparent concerns as to why they wanted the car, and for a bit of info about the shoot. This is their reply: The company made the "Wraps of the world" TV ads (check them out at www.renegade.com.au )

For cruising the highway, you really don't need to run 98, 95 will suffice. I ran mine on Mobil PULP from Melb to Bris (I have a Mobil card for the fuel), then filled with 98 (Ultimate) in Bris - no serious side effects yet But check out the Shell Optimax website, it lists every servo that sells Optimax - you should be able to work out a fuel stop strategy to get you to Sydney if you really need to run 98.

Try John at Japanese Auto Importers in Seaford - 9775 0593

The error is the result of "disconnection or short circuit in detonation sensor signal system". So, either you have a broken wire, or you disconnected the sensor while the engine was running. I don't think it means a crapped sensor, but it could. It doesn't mean that you suffered detonation.

What colour is the water pump? If its gone a bit brown, then its likely the pump has sprung a leak - they have a 'breather' on the underside that tends to crap itself.

You will probably lose a HEAP of compression by fitting the 25 head - it likely has bigger combustion chambers. The RB20 head does clean up nicely, but I've managed to hit the rev-limiter (8k rpm) with the standard RB20DET head. So I don't think it has much of a problem breathing.

I asked for anyone interested. I don't particulary care if you DON'T want to participate. It's not like its compulsory. The request came via one of my car clubs, so I believe it to be a genuine request for legitimate purposes.

Got the following request: Anyone with an appropriate car, please PM me.

Dump the oil. Replace head gasket. Fill with cheap stuff. Run engine until VERY hot (you might need to remove the fan to achieve this). Dump oil, leave everything open ie filler off, sump plug out, spark plugs out, PCV hoses off, OVERNIGHT. Then the insides should be clean enough to carry on. Fill with good oil.

If you are flooding the engine with oil, then you have a mechanical problem, not an ECU problem.

Its supposed to idle high when the engine's cold. There's a screw on the back of the ECU - you have to remove the ECU to get at it. But its for very fine adjustments. Adjust the AAC screw, it won't affect the A/F ratio - its only effective at idle, it allows air to bypass the (closed) throttle.

Is the pedal sitting close to the floor? If so, its possible you've broken the pedal box. Stupid q, but have you got any fluid in the master cylinder?

See how they 'feel' - is there significant resistance to compression and extension. If so, then they are probably OK.

For Recaros, IdealSeat Co in Moorabbin

The ECU doesn't (directly) change the O2 sensor voltage at all. The O2 sensor actually produces its own voltage, which varies according to the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas.In response to the O2 sensor voltage, the ECU adjusts the fuelling to get the O2 sensor to output a voltage closer to 0.5V, which indicates stoichiometric running. The voltage coming out of the O2 sensor changes very rapidly around the stoichiometric point. Because its is an 'after the fact' adjustment, the ECU will generally overshoot the adjustment, and then needs to adjust the fuelling in the opposite direction. So the O2 sensor, and thus the gauge, fluctuates between rich and lean.

They're supposed to be all over the place - the A/F is constantly changing in response to the ECU's attempts to maintain stoichiometric running.

Just on the matter of going electric, my experience is it's not so straight forward. With a FMIC in place, the engine would easily overheat. I finally worked out what the problem was after reading a single sentence in a new book: "Is the air going through the radiator?" So I went outside, opened the bonnet and peered down in front of the radiator. What did I see? - the ground The air was hitting the FMIC and basically finding the easiest route was down and underneath the car, NOT thru the FMIC and the radiator. So, I put the clutch fan back on, and no more overheating. If you want to go electric, the solution is to build a sort of undertray that blocks off the area between the bottom radiator support panel and the front bar. And maybe put some flutes / vents in the bonnet. Also, the A/C radiator (the one immediately in front of the radiator) relies on the engine fan to draw enough air to cool the gas. If you only have an electric fan, then the gas over-pressurises and sounds like a BOV. You need to have the little fan out front (which is thermo-activated by the sensor in the bottom of the radiator) re-wired so it comes on with the A/C. FWIW.

Once all the plugs are connected, there's only 1 way it will mount.

Link and PFC simply plug into the existing loom, Wolf and Microtech need a custom loom. Then it will be down to the tuner. Why not get the R32 ECU re-programmed?

They're only considering it.http://www.drive.com.au/news/article.asp?a...FXRSCBNTGD.html

A quick test: once the engine is warm and misfiring, whip out the ignition module and stick it in the freezer for a few minutes. Then re-connect it. If the engine doesn't misfire, then its probable the module is faulty. (they only get the fault when hot)

In the worst case, you might also need to remove the front bar.