blind_elk

There's 2 in the engine bay. On the driver's side, there's 1 just below the top of the radiator support panel, and another one about 6" down (behind the P/S lines) On passenger side, same at top, and 1 down behind the charcoal canister (from memory, its a while since I took the LH one out). The 2 nuts from the opposite side of the bolts should be welded to the body.

Remove indicator assembly, exposes 2 bolts. 2 nuts (?) accessible from engine bay. I think that's all I had to remove. Need to jiggle them a bit to get them up and over the front bar.

The saying is "can't find 'em...grind 'em"

I think its been worked out elsewhere that you only screw the piston in if the caliper incorporates the handbrake. Otherwise, it simply pushes in. Applies to all calipers, AFAIK

Some members of my club (NDSOC) went for a drive along the (wet) Great Ocean Rd recently. A passenger in a 350Z track version says he has NEVER gone so quickly along that road, and that a R32 GT-R had trouble keeping up with the 350Z (could have something to do with the drivers as well).On a previous drive to Brisbane, a different passenger reports that to overtake, just put your foot down (in 6th gear) and go :burnout: By all reports, the 350 is an awesome car.

I drew the conclusion that if there are so many contradictory answers, then there is clearly no definitive answer. It is probably a case of 'if it works, keep using it'. If it worked for one person, then it will likely work for you.

Sounds like you might have coated the rotors with resin out of the pad material. A light machine should solve it. You can clean the pads off by scuffing them on a concrete path. I have found slotted rotors are very good in this situation, because they seem to be self-cleaning.

What do you mean by "central locking won't work"? Can you lock / unlock the door with the key?

This is for the RB26DETT (not covered for RB20) Head: 3kg-m. then 11 kg-m then back right off, then 3 kg-m then11 kg-m Cam bearings: 0.92 - 1.2 kg-m Cam Pulley bolt: 1.4 - 1.9 kg-m This is for the RB20 Crank: 4.7 - 5.3 kg-m Big End: 2.3 - 2.9 kg-m, then 3.9 - 4.5 kg-m Flywheel: (M/T) 14.5 - 15.5 kg-m

Well, having all the gear certainly makes a difference. I was referring to the 80.5 mm pistons - there's some confusion as to whether they are 4AGE or 4AGZE pistons. As far as I can ascertain, they basically 'bolt in'. I had a mate in Toyota searching for them - but it seems they no longer exist. And the Lotus boys who run 4AGE engines in their clubmans can't seem to find any either.

What do you need to know?

Check the caster bushes.

machining - you forgot a '0', try $2G - that's the indication I got from a machine shop to balance everything up for a rebuild. Doesn't include boring for the bigger pistons. I'm planning to rebuild my 'old' engine (it spat a chunk out of #1 piston). The Toyota pistons (4AGE or 4AGZE, no-one can confirm which) seemingly cannot be got (new) for love nor money (if you're lucky, you might be able to pick up a S/H set from somewhere). Otherwise you'd be stuck with an expensive Tomei or similar set. I'm planning to just get a set of 1mm oversize 'standard' pistons. You should be able to utilise the R32 ECU, because it can be re-programmed if necessary.

Actually, belly_up is probably closer - only those calipers that incorporate the handbrake have the screw-in type piston. My R30 has screw-in piston, Peugot 504 has screw-in piston. Both are single-pot, but both incorporate the handbrake into the caliper.

Its nearly 12 months since I did them on mine, and I'm pretty sure I just pushed the pistons back in. The Skylines use a 2-pot caliper on the rear - how would you get the appropriate tool onto the piston if you had to screw it back in?

Check the Yellow Pages under "Fuel Injection" and you'll find some people who will come to you. You really should have them properly cleaned, but then use the shop stuff (Nulon and STP(?) are probably the best) to keep them in shape. It is possible to remove/refit them yourself, just takes a bit of patience.

If the R33 is anything like the R32, then you can't simply bolt a RB25DET from a RWD in the 4WD version. In the R32, the sump pans are different between the RWD and 4WD versions of the RB20DET engine, I'm just guessing the same with the R33, but I could be wrong.

Go to your nearest OzPost, and they can arrange a transfer via Western Union (I think that's who). They can also do the transfer in NZ$ at the same time.

Doesn't the R33 GTS4 have a torque-split gauge? The R32 version certainly does - it indicates how much torque is being applied to the front wheels. Most of the time, it sits on '0'. The Nissan 4WD system uses G-sensors and the ABS sensors to determine if / when any power should be fed to the front wheels, either because of wheel slip (ABS) or acceleration loads (lateral / longitudinal G-sensors) The transfer case has a hydraulic clutch fed from the reservoir in the boot (RH rear corner), to apply 4WD as required. R33s (GT-Rs at least) tend to go to a sort of limp-home mode if you pull the 4WD fuse.

Yellow paint does not a Bilstein make. (Old Man Emu off-road shocks are also generally yellow!). If they are Bilsteins, then they have "Bilstein" printed on the shock body. Why don't you have a look for yourself. TOny, I think you are talking about rebound-adjustable shocks. That's not what the rest of us are talking about. There's no height adjustment in the rebound setting.

I had the spring treatment done on my GTS4, and frankly, it wasn't much chop. I ended up getting a set of lowered Kings springs. If you have already lowered the car (you say you are planning to lower "another 1" "), then its highly recommended you don't lower it much more. I'm sure you should find a couple of grooves machined into the shock body. If they are not there, then you should be able to get them modified appropriately.

Ron-15H, Are your Bilsteins genuine, fully-adjustable coil-overs, or are they like mine, with a C-clip and some slots machined in the shock body to adjust the position of the spring platform. The real point of (adjustable) coil-overs is not to lower the car, but to ensure that each corner carries the correct proportion of the car's weight. Setting up a set of coil-overs in less than the time required to consume a tinny is not setting up coil-overs.

If the tyres are the same size front and rear, I'd put the newer tyres (better tread) at the front. If they are different sizes, then the wider tyres at the rear.

I've searched hi and lo, but I can't find it. Where is it?

it's a warning light, for when there's a problem in the 4WD system