blind_elk

Go and get the current Zoom (issue 67, I think). They've got an article on upgrades to the RB20DET, in 3 steps up to 280+ rwkw.

The most common cause of P/S loss and HICAS light on is a minor loss of P/S fluid. Topping up the fluid will usually cure it. (A 'search' through these forums would have found this) But since you have gone overboard with the fix, are you sure there's no air trapped in the P/S system?

Just been for a squirt around Sandown, and the Ultimates worked just fine. Maybe you could trim out the multiple postings in this thread

If you're fitting oil catch cans or oil/air separators, then there's no need to remove the fittings in the rocker covers. All you do is change the plumbing to suit. The little elbow hose on the passenger side connects to the intake plumbing, so ripping the fittings out of the rocker cover could totally stuff that up.

Probably too cold. I ran my GTS on 8s for a while. When I decided to go back to 6s, I had the engine idling for very short periods (less than a minute), and when I pulled the plugs, they were black with carbon. You could try opening the gap a bit to ensure a stronger spark.

My experience is that insurance companies don't like them. You may not be able to get any insurance on the car, maybe TPPD, but not Comp.

Don't see why it shouldn't be a straight "unplug dead engine, plug in new engine". The oil pump seems to be one of the few short-comings of the Nissan RB-series engines. I'm led to believe that the securing bolts tend to work loose (from heat / cool cylcing), then oil can be pumped out the gap, so not all the oil lubricates the engine.

Not entirely .The voltage regulator is there to regulate the voltage coming out of the alternator. As the alternator spins faster, it produces more voltage. The regulator limits the output to around 14V. If there was no regulator, the battery would be overcharged, and gradually lose its ability to hold a charge. The gauges tend to have their own mini-regulators, designed to ensure a constant, stable voltage.

What I have learned in 20+ years of club level motorsport: Step 1. Make it stop Step 2. Make it handle. Step 3. Make it go.

The plenum is supposed to be warm, that's why its got coolant flowing thru it. I doubt the intake air is hanging around long enough to extract any heat from the plenum.

Be careful getting it to thermatically switch as well. My autoelec originally did that, and when the fan switched on from the thermo switch, it also switched the A/C on - but the ECU didn't know, so the engine would stall under the load. Just rewire so that it comes on when the A/C clutch engages, and leave it at that. As I said, the standard engine fan can draw more than enough air to keep everything cool. I was driving in Adelaide once - 40 deg, black car, A/C running full blast, and the temp gauge never budged.

What about the 12mm headed bolts that hold the coilpack framework down on the sparkplug? Use the right spark plug socket! NOT very tight at all, NGK recommend about 25 ft/lb torque when the head is cold (and that's not a lot of torque) While you have it all apart, clean off the rubber boots on the coilpacks, make sure there's no carbon or moisture or stuff hanging around, as that can provide an easy path to earth for the spark pulse.

On the 32, its triggered by the thermo switch in the bottom of the radiator. Guess its the same in the 33. The standard engine fan has sufficient draw to keep the radiator cool below the switch point for the thermo fan (particulary at very low loads, like at idle), and to keep the A/C radiator cool enough. However, if you ever upgrade the gas in your A/C, get the fan re-wired to come on when the A/C is switched on. Also, if you install a thermo engine fan, get the A/C fan re-wired.

Yes, I've contacted them about braided brake lines. Just need a set of 'standard' lines so they have a template to work off (there's a thread on here somewhere asking for a set). They're going to cost about $400 for the pair. Maltech are down in Geelong.

see if you can clear the error (ECU reset). Often, something silly like disconnect the connector on the sender while engine running will trigger the fault code. Clear the code, then if it reoccurs, its likely the sender is faulty.

Bilsteins and Kings (lowered) Springs - about $1500 + install.

Thge ECUtemp sender and the gauge temp sender are next to each other on the pipe returning to the top radiator. The ECU sender has a yellow plug. The sender in the radiator is a switch for the A/C thermatic fan. The fact that the ECU sender has a fault shouldn't stop the engine from starting. What you have done (pull a coil/plug) is the simplest way to test for spark. Its likely the igniter module (on the top of the engine at the back) is faulty. See if you can get hold of another one.

Well, there's the answer - ask for some Exa plugs. Oz delivered, no risk of the wrong parts from Japan.

How many hp are they worth? How much better will the car stop? How much better will the car handle? Want to stand out from the crowd - DON'T put them on, every other wanker has.

Someone must know. Meantime, I did some rough calcs. I believe the pistons to use are 80.5mm. My rough, non-engineer, non-mechanic, non engine-builder calculations suggest the the C/R will rise to 9:1 using these pistons. Basically: std swept vol = 333cc (78 bore, 69.7 stroke) cc vol (at CR=8.5) = 44.4cc new swept vol = 354.7cc new CR = 9 ( (354.7 + 44.4) / 44.4) Final capacity = 2128cc Boring the engine will make it even MORE over(?) square - bore : stroke increases (already > 1:1). This would reduce the torque the engine can produce, but would the increased CR compensate?

If you're concerned about them going inside, drill a pilot hole and stick a piece of wire through before you start tapping. Then if you do manage to punch them in, they won't disappear. To get the new ones in, basically you need a socket the same size - or a bees-dick bigger. Gently tap them into the hole so they sit there, then use the socket to drift them into place. Having a slightly larger socket will prevent you from punching the welsh plugs through into the water gallery - it will stop when it hits the block.

Check the Yellow Pages. Check with CAMS (www.cams.com.au) or a Car Club. Join a car club (listed on the CAMS site), and get out on a racetrack. The John Bowe course is supposed to be good, but not sure if they operate in Bris / GC. Most similar schools will require you to do the defensive course before you can progress to the advanced then high speed courses.

Are the coil plugs the same as a SR20? or RB26? Try Speed Technology for the injector plugs. How can Nissan send the wrong ones, when they won't order any parts without a VIN of the car. The VIN would ensure they send the right ones.

As I said, there's no guarantee that the 'easy' way will work. If the timing isn't somewhere already near the factory value (15 BTDC), then don't use the 'easy' way. I got it reading almost twice the 'real' value using my mighty K-Mart timing light and the wire loop.

Gently punch them on one side, so they swivel in the hole. Then grab with vicegrips and pull. Replace them with brass ones, available from Repco (maybe others).