blind_elk

You could build a 'bridge' over the cam valley to mount it back on. Or I think I've seen someone build some sort of plate that sits over the brake lines on the firewall, and mount the box up there. Or do what I did (lazily), just connect the earth wire back onto the cam cover, and let the box 'float'. (I've put it all back together now)

There's no guarantee that that method works. The better method is to remove #1 coilpack, and insert a plug lead between the coilpack and the spark plug. Then do a 'normal / old-fashioned' reading of the timing and adjust the CAS.

Inlet: opens 5 BTDC, closes 47 ABDC, duration 232 Exhaust: opens 57 BBDC, closes 3 ATDC, duration 240 overlap: 8 Don't know about lift, but I did measure my RB20DET ex cam, and I seem to recall its about 8mm lift.

I'm thinking of rebuilding my old RB20DET block. I don't want to build it for mega kw, just stuff like balancing everything up. But I need at least 1 new piston - the original piston has a big chunk above the top ring land missing. Also thought, though, about getting a bit more compression out of it. I've read somewhere about using 4AGZE(?) pistons when building a RB24. Is this correct, and will they simply 'bolt on' the the RB20 rods. The appropriate bore will give the increased C/R I'd be looking for, I guess. (I don't want a RB24 though) Could use RB20DE pistons, but that engine runs 10.2 C/R. Any other way to increase C/R without major re-working of all the internals? Thanks in advance.

What heat range you running? eg BCPR 5 ES ("5" is the heat range) Don't think you wil ever tell who made the pads, or what grade they are. They look a bit "Bendix Ultimate", but you're not going to be able to get a definitive answer, I don't think.

Looks like what I might be after. Has room for the FMIC? Without too much cutting?

It probably is. Any pics, or some way of having a look at it.

Anyone know where in Melbourne I can get a new front bar for my GTS4 (like the GTR-copy that UAS sell). I broke the lower extension (again:mad: ), so I'm thinking of a new bar rather than repair the existing one.

I think it was 7's News, not TT.

Went to phone them recently and got the "no longer connected" message. Paid them a vist while in Adelaide at their old address, and no sign of them. So, where did they disappear to?

Its not overly difficult, after you remove the fan and radiator. The instructions for each product should tell you what's required, ie RTFM. The main problem with the thermo fan is triggering it - I used the output of the A/C thermo fan relay to trigger another relay that powers the new thermo fan. But, 2 warnings: 1 You will need to re-wire the A/C thermo fan - the little one out front of the radiator - to come on when the A/C is switched on. Otherwise you overpressurise the A/C gas. 2. You will need to construct some sort of undertray to block off the gap between the front bar and the bottom of the radiator support panel, otherwise the air goes down and under the car rather than thru the radiator, and you will get overheating problems.

Joel, Have you seen the latest Zoom? What you're referring to happened yonks ago.

Check out the latest Zoom - they did an article on a 3-stage powerup on the RB20DET, to 220rwkw.

The RB25 head simply bolts on top of the RB30 block. No need to change anything inside the block. You need to change some stuff in the timing cover area - new pullies, relocate pullies. And you need to change the computer to one that can run coilpacks. Zoom ([email protected]) did an article a while ago, but I believe that issue is now out of print. Ask them, let me know the issue number, and I'll see if can dig it out. I can only fax it to you.

I've started investigating getting some SS braided brake lines (ADR-approved) for the GTS4 (following on from the recent Zoom article). I've found a place that can make them but they haven't ever made them for a R32 and will require a sample to make them from. So, anyone got an old set of front hoses that I can use? (They're going to do me a good price, so maybe we could then do a bulk-buy deal with them.)

Had a similar problem in my GTS4 - its like someone riding the brakes, right? My local Nissan dealer told me the timing was retarded to buggery, so I'd suggest you check that first. and, for crise sake, DON'T boost it when its cold - unless you've got heaps of money to replace the engine..

Mansons / Quickfit in Bayswater, Traction Tyres in Rowville, Bob Jane in Box Hill all have 4W aligners

JimX, Ever consider it was the (crap) Holden brakes, nothing to do with the pads. I have Ultimates on my R32, and over Easter did some sprints (4 lap sets) at Willowbank. Never experienced any sign of fade. Yes they are dusty, but I haven't any experience of them chewing rotors. I reckon - bang-for-your-buck - you can't go past them.

Its likely a lack of brake fluid. I think it can also indicate a blown brake light.

Waz, he's talking about removing the globe, not the whole headlamp.

Forget Monroe. Ring Quadrant Suspension in Berwick for Bilsteins. Ring TopPerformance in Vermont for Koni. Or try Traction Tyres in Rowville for general info as to what's available.

Don't need any tools, just small hands. Plug just slips off the back of the globe. Then there's a bayonet-style cover. Then a rubber boot, then a spring clip to hold the globe in place. Installation is the reverse of removal.

If the engine doesn't stall, I wouldn't worry about.

I have 17x7.5 all round. I'm pretty sure they are +38 offset (they are same as AU Falcon).

To get 18-20 psi in the system, BOTH turbos would need to be pumping 18-20 psi. Its a simple law of pressure - the pressure in an enclosed space is distributed equally in all directions.