blind_elk

I'd suggest put the original heat range 6s back in, close the gap (.8 - .9).

This should be the one to adjust. It can't be totally covered by the dust seal, otherwise the rod wouldn't be able to be pushed by the pedal.Very worst case, pull the instrument cluster out to get better access to the pushrod.

Which gasket (inlet / exhaust)? If inlet, maybe you swapped two injector connectors. Did you clean the manifold face and head surface properly before reassembly?

FAQs, fyi: http://www.aomc.asn.au/cpsnewfaq.htm In particular Q6, Q15

A leak in the exhaust will sound more like "raspberries", not hissing. "Hissing" will be an air leak somewhere in the induction system.

You probably need to loosen the pivot bolt.

You should be running higher pressures in the front - reduces understeer. I'm running 38 all round (only because of AWD setup) on a 235/45-17.

What's on them now?

According to the dba website, rears are the same, fronts are different (32 is smaller diameter).

When I went to school, 1989 + 25 was 2014. So, the car will not be eligible this year (2012) or next year (2013), but may be eligible in 2015, which will entitle you to drive the car on 45 or 90 days per year, as recorded in a logbook. If SAU has not become a signatory to the scheme, NDSOC is already a signatory, but you will need to maintain your NDSOC club membership, and you will be required to attend at least 6 club events each year (not necessarily with the car).

Auto or manual?

Is everything connected the way it was before you replaced the boss / steering wheel?

Surely the person you bought it from has the software. I have v4.49 on 2 1.4Mb floppies (dates it for sure!). And I have v4.72 installed, but can't find the original download (.zip, iirc). v4.72 displays the graphical as well as the tabular maps. v4.72 installed is a bit over 5Mb. It might zip down to something emailable.

2 x 87 would have been my next guess

The small Bosch relays come in a variant that has 2 outputs, ie 2 x 85 (or maybe its 86). Makes wiring much easier, as the only duplicated wire is that from the relay to the fan(s).

Pretty much regardless of the boost level, you will still see "rich" because the ECU calculates the air volume from the AFM, and matches the fuel using its internal air-fuel maps. Unless you have a turbo that can pull more air than the stock AFM can measure, you should never see the AFR go "lean" at WOT (on a stock ECU). The change in voltage of the stock O2 sensor is extremely rapid around the stoichiometric point. In a matter of perhaps 0.1 voltage units (maybe even less), the AFR will go from perhaps 13:1 to perhaps 17:1, totally missing 14.7:1. This is why you will see the gauge dance around the stoichiometric point - the change is so rapid that the ECU cannot make fuel corrections quickly enough to maintain a stoichiometric mixture. So, as mad082 stated, if you try to tune using a AFR gauge, by the time you have got enough boost that the engine runs lean with that boost, you will be on the wrong side of stoichiometric, and will very quickly destroy the engine.

niZmO_Man, Larger rears shouldn't upset ATTESSA. It's only when the rears are a smaller rolling diameter that ATTESSA cracks it. sultanaz, There are innumerable threads asking a similar question. The majority will recommend having the same wheel / tyre combo all round. If you want to run offset wheels, then you shouldn't have purchased an AWD Nissan. That said, you can do some calculations to find a F/R tyre size combination that won't upset ATTESSA.

Last time I blew a heater hose, I ended up warping the head (this was the RB20DET). I reckon your lady's car has done the same. A compression test should confirm - 2 & 3 will be very low compression.

This question, or variants thereof, have been covered a zillion times on the forum. Search. (BTW, its ATTESSA) And, there's no need to shout.

Yes

New brakes? Or just new brake pads? GT-R & GTSt are the same pad. If in doubt, remove one of the pads, trace it onto paper (or photocopy it) to take to the shop to compare.

By chance, found this press release from the Minister and Vicroads, dated just 2 days prior to my incident: http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/NewsRoom/News+Releases/Trucking+down+the+Road+to+Respect.htm I'm about to ask the company what the outcome was of their talk to the driver. An unsatisfactory result will instigate a letter to the minister.

It has been my experience that the battery in the car being jumped needs to have at least some charge in it. A completely dead battery needs to be connected to the (running) jumper car for around 10 minutes to get some charge before you can even think about trying to start it. And yes, HD cables are worth the investment. I've had lightweight cables become quite hot during even the simplest of jump starts. You can do an easy jump start with HD cables, but you can't do a difficult start with lightweight cables.

As I understand it, the clutch is the drivetrain equivalent of a fuse. So, it's like sticking a nail in the fuse box - you won't blow the fuse, but you will blow something else in the circuit.So, if you stick a massive clutch in, then instead of a slipping clutch (fuse), you will likely break the gearbox or the diff.

So, you would rather sit there idling, wasting fuel, for 5 minutes with a large piston - bore clearance, than drive for 2 minutes with a large piston - bore clearance after which the engine will be at 50, and you will be 2 minutes closer to you destination. The harder the engine works, the more heat it produces. The more heat it produces, the faster it gets to the correct operating temperature (which should be as the manufacturer designed it to be, so don't go installing "cooler" thermostats). The maximum wear rate in an engine is during the warm-up period. Taxi engines basically last for ever, because they rarely get cold. Any good engineer, with the exception of Adam Gilchrist's father, will tell you to drive from the get-go. Trying to get the engine warm by idling is a waste of fuel (and therefore money).